Catch Can Install

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Relief valve shouldn't be opening. Try spinning it around in the bracket a little to see if there is a better spot. Is the can tight in the bracket?

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

Try supporting the lines so the motor shake doesn't rattle the catch can in its bracket. Also look at using tape or something soft under the bracket. Mine rattled for ages until I worked out the bracket is a little loose and rattled. Be careful if the oil lines rub against any body component as the noise will travel into the cab.
Rusty.

[2014Prado150 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close 2014Prado150]

Anyone know who is the Australian distributor of Provent?
I need to buy a dozen for my work fleet and $140-$170 is pretty steep!
Jason

[Pugaree Member Find all posts View Profile Close Pugaree]

Anyone know who is the Australian distributor of Provent?
I need to buy a dozen for my work fleet and $140-$170 is pretty steep!
Jason

http://www.westernfilters.com.au/

[awd2.0t Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close awd2.0t]

http://www.westernfilters.com.au/[/url]

I wish they would make up a Prado kit like they have done for the D40 Navara

Anyone feel like arranging a Group purchase??

Pics of my catch can install:






Drain valve tucked in behind the bullbar, easy access

[ff1_69 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close ff1_69]

G'day all. If I may put in my tuppence worth.
First of all, isn't the catch can's job to catch most if not ALL water and oil vapours out of the crank case.
Hot vapours that stay hot will not condense back to their liquid form, hence they have to cooled to below dew point.
Why mount the can in the engine bay where it's always stinking hot.
I have noticed throughout this thread that people are not catching a lot of oil/water. Is there a common denominator here? The vapours are going straight back into the engine defeating the purpose on all this nice work/expense. I don't care what Provent may claim in their catch rate. If there is no oil in the can after 5-10,000kms, its letting it all escape.
If you could dump the excess blow-by to the atmosphere, not a problem, but it has to return to the inlet for legal and engine management purposes.
Perhaps a finned tube, similar to power-steering coolers, could be included into the circuit to cool the charge before it entered the can.

I am not an engineer, just a deep thinking individual.

6 months ago I knew nothing of this subject, my car is having problems so I am reading a lot of threads and input from you.
Blocking the EGR valve is out (1KD-FTV) so I need to remove ALL the oil vapours out so the exhaust can pass through with out any deposition of carbon.

Am I on the right track, preaching to the converted, or just p*****g in the wind?
Your input please.
Michael

[Rick NZ Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rick NZ]

Which is why the racor unit with alloy body works !
Mine has ambient air flow over it

I get over 100ml water/ oily crap out of my drain off weekly.. More if humidity is high

The plastic style catch cans can never have the same thermal capability as alloy to condense the vapour

Also another item that works with the 1KD is to use low ash oil = less intake deposits

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

Have just replaced our engine after a piston holed itself when we where in Kakadu. Our Provent catch can is mounted beside the airbox and the drain is on the side of the chassis with a small ball valve.
The old engine was spitting a lot more oil than the recon one , which would be right. We have done approx 1500 km and the filter is just starting to 'wet up' with oil. Not concerned with condensation as this will go straight through the intake track, oil is the concern with the EGR.
A problem with the noisy valve on the bottom. We have resorted to placing a zip tie to prevent the valve from moving. The original unit had split this valve, something that Provent had never seen before and changed it under warranty even though it was a couple of years old.
A permanent fix is in the think tank for the weekend.
Rusty.

[fester Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close fester]

Hi Rusty62, where did you get your mounting bracket?

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

Made from a piece of 25x3 steel.

[Gary Wells Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Gary Wells]

Does anyone have photos of a Provent system on a 120 where there is a second battery already installed at the front of the engine bay, or otherwise suggestions where it might actually fit?

Thanks
Neil

I am fitting on now near second battery dont know how to add photos

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

Finally fixed the relief valve noise. At low rpm the bottom valve would bounce and rattle. Provent tell me this happens with mainly 4 cylinder motors.
My fix is to put a piece of round brass in the 25 mm line between the Provent and the turbo with a 8 mm hole as a restrictor. Have also placed a clamp over this piece so it cannot get any ware near the turbo inlet. Was a bit concerned I would not get enough flow but on initial test looks ok. The top relief valve will open if too much pressure builds up in the can.

Rusty.

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

So far so good with the restricter in place. The bottom valve has stopped making noise. Doesn't seem to be over pressured in the can as the top relief valve has no oil witness marks yet.

Get about 20 ml of oil every week or two. Never had any water but as said above water vapor will flow through and not cause any problems. Would like to install the one way valve in the drain line and have a fitting in the sump so never have to manually empty.

Rusty.

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

Rusty don't put the stuff into your sump. Water in there isn't worth it.

[GXL14 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close GXL14]

I installed an oil catch can about a 10 months ago. I also used heater hose to connect it to the engine.
I noticed the the hose from the engine breather to the oil catch can has a few fine cracks in it.
How often do you change the hoses if you use heater hose?
Also I am looking at sourcing a more suitable hose to use rather than a heater hose.
Can anyone suggest a more suitable oil/heat resistant silicone black hose and supplier?