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  • #91
    Okay found a flexy camera at the below web link. It is $36.95. below are some details. Will this be suitable for checking the oil screen?

    Specifications
    Resolution: 640x480 @ 30fps
    Field of view: 54°
    Focal distance: 6cm ~ infinite
    Flexible cable neck with handle: 88cm
    Flexible cable neck: 120cm
    Flexible cable neck diameter: 9mm
    USB Cable: 200cm
    Camera head outer diameter is 11.4mm
    Application CD (Compatible with Windows 7, Vista, XP, 2000, ME

    Package Contents
    1 x USB endoscope
    1 x CD-ROM (application software)
    1 x Magnetic accessory attachment
    1 x User's manual

    http://www.oo.com.au/Flexible-Snake-...estC-_-Product

    SOL.
    [COLOR="#006400"][url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?26339-SOL-s-150-shorty-SX[/url][/COLOR]

    [COLOR="#00FF00"]4wdriving[/COLOR] [COLOR="#0000FF"]First Party[/COLOR] - [COLOR="#FF0000"]Bitumen: A Blatant Waste of Taxpayers Money![/COLOR]

    Comment


    • #92
      Originally posted by rob_macca67 View Post
      It's been a while since I done it (2yrs+) but by looking at those pics I'd say yes......

      If it is I'll have to check when I get home as to which tape was used......
      There's a hydraulic thread sealant from Loctite that works better than the tape which goes gooey when exposed to petroleum products.
      Dave
      Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
      Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

      Comment


      • #93
        thanks Dave....

        Originally posted by Bushbasher View Post
        There's a hydraulic thread sealant from Loctite that works better than the tape which goes gooey when exposed to petroleum products.
        [I]cheers..... Rob (macca)[/I]
        [I][B][COLOR=DarkRed]Car-4: 1996 Defender Tdi [/COLOR][/B][/I]
        [I][B][COLOR=Blue]Car-3: 1996 Discovery Tdi Auto[/COLOR][/B][/I]
        [B][I][COLOR=Green]Car-2: 1993 Suzuki Vitara 4Dr (modified for Playing) [/COLOR][COLOR=#ff0000]Now Retired[/COLOR][COLOR=Green] [/COLOR][/I][/B]
        [B][I][COLOR=DarkOrchid]Car-1: 2010 Toyota Prado 150's (Missus Car/current touring vehicle)[/COLOR][/I][/B]

        Comment


        • #94
          Originally posted by Talktheroo View Post
          Good old Locktite 515, fellows.
          The Roo.
          Thats all we use at work, good stuff, if you are using thread tape make sure it is wound the correct way on the thread so it doesn't unwind and bunch up when doing the thread up.

          Cheers Derek
          Blue Storm 150 GXL 4D4 PRADO and 2014 Cub Brumby Camper My rig build [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?25698-Derek11-s-2012-Blue-Storm-150-GXL-build-up[/url]

          Comment


          • #95
            Originally posted by SOL View Post
            Okay found a flexy camera at the below web link. It is $36.95. below are some details. Will this be suitable for checking the oil screen?

            Specifications
            Resolution: 640x480 @ 30fps
            Field of view: 54°
            Focal distance: 6cm ~ infinite
            Flexible cable neck with handle: 88cm
            Flexible cable neck: 120cm
            Flexible cable neck diameter: 9mm
            USB Cable: 200cm
            Camera head outer diameter is 11.4mm
            Application CD (Compatible with Windows 7, Vista, XP, 2000, ME

            Package Contents
            1 x USB endoscope
            1 x CD-ROM (application software)
            1 x Magnetic accessory attachment
            1 x User's manual

            http://www.oo.com.au/Flexible-Snake-...estC-_-Product

            SOL.
            SOL,
            I've got that exact unit. It doesn't get up the drain hole as the head is to big, but it is enough to inspect the condition of the screen. The pictures aren't crystal clear either but for the price it does the job!
            Jase
            [b]Silver 2008 D4D Auto GXL[/b]
            [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6032]My build up[/url]

            Comment


            • #96
              Originally posted by switched View Post
              SOL,
              I've got that exact unit. It doesn't get up the drain hole as the head is to big, but it is enough to inspect the condition of the screen. The pictures aren't crystal clear either but for the price it does the job!
              Jase
              Switched thanks for that.
              Might keep looking.

              SOL.
              [COLOR="#006400"][url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?26339-SOL-s-150-shorty-SX[/url][/COLOR]

              [COLOR="#00FF00"]4wdriving[/COLOR] [COLOR="#0000FF"]First Party[/COLOR] - [COLOR="#FF0000"]Bitumen: A Blatant Waste of Taxpayers Money![/COLOR]

              Comment


              • #97
                Originally posted by gumboot View Post
                Thanks John/ Rob. So it seems some are running 30 , some 10 and some 2 mircron filters
                Whats the suggested one, 10 micron? Will it do a suffient job or do i need 2 micron?

                Is there a shorter filter option as it does look raher long with the water trap. I thought I saw somewhere here a person swap to a shorterr filter with water trap underneath, so I can mount it against the guard in the two unsed holes in the back passenger side?
                Cheers
                Robert

                My question as well given the different opinions shared on the "Caterpillar Water separator" thread. I was just about to order the Terrain Tamer 30 micron (31863) which is the shorter filter that is supposed to fit the 120 and align to the existing holes.
                2009 120 GXL auto Diesel Prado with Option pack (DAC, TRC, VSC), Super Winch, Dual Batteries, Airteck snorkel, Polyair bag suspension, 75w HID IPF's.

                Comment


                • #98
                  To answer the original question - I would def be checking your oil pickup especially if the injector seals have not been replaced.

                  Had a hilux engine pickup a bore last year due to blocked oil pickup @ 142k. Always serviced every 5k......but hadn't had the injector seals replaced (because it wasn't specified and valves can be checked without removing the injectors).

                  It is a 07 update w. watercoooled egr.

                  Comment


                  • #99
                    John... when u say check your blow by.... what are u looking for?? I'd thought most Turbo'd cars (probably all cars) would have some form of Blow-by..... Are u looking for more solids or a change in the oil's viscosity / appearance??



                    Originally posted by Talktheroo View Post
                    Sorry to hear that Clarky. I reckon you should check for blow by on all CRD engines that have the injectors mounted underneath the rocker cover. Just my opinion and that means every brand of vehicle that has this set up. That includes the 1KD-FTV and the 1VD-FTV in the Toyota range.
                    It doesn't take much to do it for the insurances that it will give you. Even if it was one engine in the whole fleet that suffered from this condition, it still would be worth it to do this check.
                    The Roo.
                    rob_macca67
                    Avid PP Poster!
                    Last edited by rob_macca67; 21-01-2013, 08:29 AM.
                    [I]cheers..... Rob (macca)[/I]
                    [I][B][COLOR=DarkRed]Car-4: 1996 Defender Tdi [/COLOR][/B][/I]
                    [I][B][COLOR=Blue]Car-3: 1996 Discovery Tdi Auto[/COLOR][/B][/I]
                    [B][I][COLOR=Green]Car-2: 1993 Suzuki Vitara 4Dr (modified for Playing) [/COLOR][COLOR=#ff0000]Now Retired[/COLOR][COLOR=Green] [/COLOR][/I][/B]
                    [B][I][COLOR=DarkOrchid]Car-1: 2010 Toyota Prado 150's (Missus Car/current touring vehicle)[/COLOR][/I][/B]

                    Comment


                    • Roo, we are going to keep a good eye on the oil pickups when changing the oil (you can see in through the plug hole with a small torch) and to pull the injectors every 40k....it is clearly evident when the seal fails, the injectors are covered in carbon. It was interesting that the exhaust gasses began to get a really acute smell about 20k before failure and with the replacement engine (out of a 11 model) I'm not getting any smell.....I reckon that was the carbonisation.

                      But we have solved the problem......we had to get a new vehicle a month or so later.....due to the lack of assistance from Yota, we bought a Ranger....it was the first none Toyota work ute purchased in 30 years.

                      Originally posted by Talktheroo View Post
                      Sorry to hear that Clarky. I reckon you should check for blow by on all CRD engines that have the injectors mounted underneath the rocker cover. Just my opinion and that means every brand of vehicle that has this set up. That includes the 1KD-FTV and the 1VD-FTV in the Toyota range.
                      It doesn't take much to do it for the insurances that it will give you. Even if it was one engine in the whole fleet that suffered from this condition, it still would be worth it to do this check.
                      The Roo.

                      Comment


                      • Sorry John... When u mentione "Blow-by" I thought u were talking about the blow-by hose on the rocker cover back to the air intake..... my mistake

                        Just wondering here.... but as Clarky said that he could smell a difference in the exhaust gases..... I wonder if u remove the oil filler cap off and then try and smell to see if u can smell any noticable differences.... I assuming u should be able to smell any abnormalities if u did it regularly.....???



                        Originally posted by Talktheroo View Post
                        The solids on the sump screen Captain Rob. I just say Captain because I watched Pirates of the Caribbean last night. Bloody ads.
                        So you need the inspection camera to do this job at every oil change. Drain the engine oil first and then put the probe up the hole there to have a look at the screen. The solids get caught on the screen. If you do have the beginnings of this condition, you must take off the sump to clean the sump screen. You usually unbolt the assembly and clean it outside of the vehicle.
                        Then fix the cause of the problem, which is the injector seals and the seats or reflectors. Yes, big job, but it's better to do this rather than taking out the while block and sometimes the turbo assembly. Big bucks if this happens, and hence the name of this thread.
                        The Roo.
                        [I]cheers..... Rob (macca)[/I]
                        [I][B][COLOR=DarkRed]Car-4: 1996 Defender Tdi [/COLOR][/B][/I]
                        [I][B][COLOR=Blue]Car-3: 1996 Discovery Tdi Auto[/COLOR][/B][/I]
                        [B][I][COLOR=Green]Car-2: 1993 Suzuki Vitara 4Dr (modified for Playing) [/COLOR][COLOR=#ff0000]Now Retired[/COLOR][COLOR=Green] [/COLOR][/I][/B]
                        [B][I][COLOR=DarkOrchid]Car-1: 2010 Toyota Prado 150's (Missus Car/current touring vehicle)[/COLOR][/I][/B]

                        Comment


                        • Point taken.....have a mate with the snap-on camera job might have to borrow it @ 20k inspection.

                          I am getting a hoist which should make life a little easier.

                          Unfortunatly on the hilux you can't remove the sump on its own (like the prado).

                          Manual 3.2L Ranger.....time will tell how they go, however it has alot lower gearing than the hilux which should make the daily slog pulling trailers etc on farm alot easier. Does seem to be better on fuel and more grunt than the hilux.

                          Originally posted by Talktheroo View Post
                          Yes Clarky, you can use a torch. But I would rather use a inspection camera as you can get a closer look at that screen.
                          Is it the manual version or the auto version with the Ranger Clarky?
                          The Roo.

                          Comment


                          • Thanks Roo. I couldn't be bothered going into the shed to have a look at the bottle, too hot. I've used it successfully on the joints on my Racor filter and the Provent. It's also keeping my EFI on the Cobra leak free too so is good for both diesel and petrol.
                            Dave
                            Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
                            Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.

                            Comment


                            • So in short, replace injector seals and seats every 40k kms when doing valve clearances. Replace rocket cover seal while you are at it.
                              Check for injector feedbacks.

                              Every 150k kms or so replace injectors

                              Check the screen for blockage regularly

                              Is that it?

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by pjorek View Post
                                So in short, replace injector seals and seats every 40k kms when doing valve clearances. Replace rocket cover seal while you are at it.
                                Check for injector feedbacks.

                                Every 150k kms or so replace injectors

                                Check the screen for blockage regularly

                                Is that it?
                                I'd agree except for replacing injectors.....I'd only be changing them if needed.

                                Comment

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