diesel rattle in D4D Prado

[SWR Banned Find all posts View Profile Close SWR]

Gday Riv39 & mackayvx

I have been doing some more trawling of the net but can only find audio of the 1.4 D4D which is basically the same set-up of the 3.0 ltr D4D less the emissions and cubic capacity of course!

Listen to these others and understand that these are more extreme than in Australia as far as the sub zero temps we reach in the ski season in the mountains.

The first one is in winter (-23C) and the second is the same vehicle but in +22C temp!... Take note on how much smoother and quieter the engine is!

Note: If you live in a climate where it gets insanely cold in the winter and extremely warm in the summer then i would be conscious of the oil viscosity you choose to use when exposing your ring to those temperatures.... Fuel is normally changed according to season and climate so diesel clouding is normally covered by the fuel refinery depending on the season!

Clink on Links below!

Toyota Corolla 1.4D4D -23C Cold start 05.02.2012

The same vehicle in warmer weather

Toyota Corolla 1.4D4D +22C Cold start 16.09.2012

Toyota Corolla 1.4 D4D Cold start

Toyota Avensis Verso D4D (Cold start)

Toyota Corolla Verso 2005 D4D 2.0 Diesel Cold Start -17C

Toyota Auris 2008 1.4 Diesel cold start -24 celsium

Toyota Corolla 1.4 D4D Cold start -20C

Old Top Gear Toyota Corolla

Ha ha! The last one was a was a curve ball i threw in to remind us all of what TOYOTA used to be concerning customer priority and stuff! Lol

QUOTE mackayvx: Is the cold knock a D4D characteristic or can it happen to any diesel?

Answer skywalkerrun: I believe it is common with the cold knock on the high pressure common rail modern diesels to be noisy in extreme cold irrespective to the make and model but lets not forget that injectors do wear but is more noticeable in the cold... I also "Think" IMHO and only "think"!.. That there is a few other probs but i believe Toyota are on to it as i will point out what "i think" in the next following thread reply to "russellb!" Lol

Cheers

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Gday russellb

A quick query.

I'm about to replace injectors in a late 2006 KDJ120. Should I replace the No 1 injector clamp?
Looking at the parts lists on Toyo-DIY the 2006/7 model shows a single part number 23695-30010, while the 2008/9 model shows two 23695-30010 (08/2006 - 08/200
23695-30011 (09/2008 - 04/2009)

Thanks for any advice

Russell

I hope that i have shed some light on the big picture here! Lol

I did a bit of research into that there "Fuel Injector Nozzel Clamp!" (23695-30010).... Would you believe that it has been in service since the making of the 2000 LAND CRUISER (KDJ90R-GJMNYW) & 2000 LAND CRUISER (KDJ95R-GKMNYW).

Anyway!... Getting back on track with the injector clamp that is specifically for the "1KD-FTV!"... Below is a list of dates and the models that the "Injector clamp" part number changed over!

"NOTE": I did not add the "0L010 or 0L011" into the equation as i believe/Guessing ("0L010 - 0L011") would have been the transition change over (Over Lap) of the clamp! EG: New clamp comes out but want to use up the hypothetically existing what-ever thousand older type clamps up that are still siting on the shelf! Lol.. This is doing my head in but as i have regularly stated in the past "Quote": I endeavor to seek the facts and try not to guess! Lol.

Listing of injector clamps below for the "1KD-FTV!"!

23695-30010 - (??/2000 - 08/2008) x4 KDJ90/KDJ95/KDJ120
23695-30011 - (09/2008 - 04/2009) x4 KDJ120
23695-30011 - (04/2009 - 07/2010) x4 KDJ150
23695-30020 - (08/2010 - ) x4 KDJ150

WOW!... So clearly Toyota have been paying allot of attention to that there injector clamp haven't they?...

I also couldn't help but notice that they never once changed the injector clamp bolt?... I personally would have thought that the bolt would stretched first?

A quick query.

I'm about to replace injectors in a late 2006 KDJ120. Should I replace the No 1 injector clamp?

Russell

Mmmmm ..... Good Question?

Given that the Cylender head and Injector securing bolt hasn't changed at all since the year 2000 i would be more inclined to ask should i go straight to part number "23695-30020" and if changing the one clamp it is actually supposed to be all 4! Lol

Not my call on this one but there seems to be some hit and miss going on here and i still believe in my original therory as explained below
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post403415

I think i have given enough to think and chew on! Lol

Cheers

[Fronty Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Fronty]

Well, after arguing with Toyota, I got my injectors replaced. The car had a 6 year extended warranty and they agreed to do the work 1 month out of warranty. New injectors, new seats and new pipes. Still has the typical D4D clatter, but no more spray can rattle when cold when below 2,000rpm. Car drives completely different. Idles smoothly even when cold and feels a little more responsive. They also checked my oil pick-up and all is clear.

Now, do I start adding something such as flash lube or ashless 2-stroke oil?

[Rusty62 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rusty62]

Replaced injectors, timing belt, idler pulley, water pump, cleaned egr and intake manifold, all oil in gearboxes and diffs.
Thanks to John for an excellent job done.

Prado is now ready for our trip around WA next year.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

Now somebody has suggested to put methanol in with the diesel to bring exhaust gas temps down?

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

Picked up my new Holden Colorado 4WD dual cab work car on Thursday. It has a bit of a rattle on start up but when that 2.8 warms up it goes like a train. I reckon it would leave the Prado in it's dust and the fuel economy is pretty amazing too.

[Hutch Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Hutch]

Picked up my new Holden Colorado 4WD dual cab work car on Thursday. It has a bit of a rattle on start up but when that 2.8 warms up it goes like a train. I reckon it would leave the Prado in it's dust and the fuel economy is pretty amazing too.

It is a pity the front is so fugly..


Hutch- 2012 Prado 150, some TJM Kit.

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Yeah, only a mother could love it. I got the black steel factory bar with a couple of tiny Hella spots. The fleet manager has bolted them on the lower centre of the bar but apparently Holden wants them suspended from the special attachment points provided under the top centre of the hoop. All about maximum airflow to the inter-cooler. The steel wheels are butt ugly too and fitted with road-going Bridgies. I'll have to look into changing that. They've gone to a 5 bolt pattern that renders my 2nd spare useless.

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I also have a big fuel tank fitted, she did 500km before the gauge moved off full giving me a range of just over a thousand kilometres. It has one of those annoying chimes that goes off all the time so I will be pulling the plug on that too. The pedals are off set and my left foot catches the footrest every time I change gear. The exhaust has a bit of a note when you put the right boot into it.

[Hutch Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Hutch]

Roo, I would rather a BT than a Colorado both need a bullbar to look better the BT is a much nicer ute inside and out apart from the front......


Hutch- 2012 Prado 150, some TJM Kit.

[Kitbags Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Kitbags]

Fellas Please state the Beta standard used when stating the microns. Microns alone have no meaning unless you do. All major filter manufacturers will give the beta standard they use for the particular filter. Here is a link to the Donaldson Filter website on this subject which you will have to manually input:-

http://www.donaldsontoolbox.com.au/t...e-air-filters/

There are many other websites with similar explainations of beta standards.

Once this is read it becomes clear that all "lets say" 6 micron filters are not better than all 8 micron filters.

There is a lot of posts about fuel filtration, inefficiencies of the standard OEM Toyota system, second filters, and quoted microns. Has anyone established the actual filtration standard of the OEM filter? Has anyone established the filtration standard of the non OEM replacement filters either fitted to replace the OEM filter or that are additional filters mentioned in their posts? eg. quote 8microns at 75beta or 8microns at 2beta and not just a mention of say 8microns. Once this is established we get a true comparison of what is available to us.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

The foot thing Dave. You are from WA after all. LOL.

So you Queenslanders' must get a modified steering wheel to adjust for the extra thumbs? (Banana Benders).

[cfryback Find all posts View Profile Close cfryback]

Well, well I traveled north of the state (Tassie) for gravel road rally. Because I had tunes going, I stopped to close a road with tape - oil light flickered. Oh #$%, out in the bush and I didn't even THINK to bring an extra liter of oil with me.

The 1KD-FTV, has 176K KM's - just had a service with the Toyota Dealer (I bought it used), I did ask them about blowing white smoke on some startups - written on the invoice was the suggestion in the FUTURE that injectors or EGR should be checked out.

Anyways, guess what? One hell of a rattling noise - but no loss of power, and fuel economy was still OK. Sounds like a petrol engine with a spark plug removed...

Took it to a non-dealer Toyota specialist - one of the guys pulled the dipstick with it running - and the poor girl promptly sprayed oil out of the dip.

I'm holding on to some vain hope that it is something simple. I should also point out that there doesn't appear to be oil in the cooliant.

[cfryback Find all posts View Profile Close cfryback]

Oopps double post.

[SWR Banned Find all posts View Profile Close SWR]

Gday cfryback

I don't want to sound like captain pessimist but it does sound like hole/cracked piston or at least a piston that picked up! (grabbed the cylinder bore and taken/damaged the piston rings).

Reason: Heavy back pressure coming from the dipstick is definitely not a good sign at all and if you was lucky enough for it to be a collapsed fuel injector it would not promote extreme crank case pressure unless something has let go?.... Maybe you could be really lucky and the injector seating washer has completely let go (Highly unlikely but one can hope!).

Also! If the injector seating washer let-go or injector collapsed it would not trigger the engine oil light at idle?

IF!! the injector filled the sump with diesel and thinned the engine oil you would get high engine oil level on the dipstick when switched off but also a recipe for a run-away diesel (Runaway = when engine continues to run when switched off due to self combustion from engine sump oil or fuel pump not shutting down fuel supply) and not forgetting distinctive plooms of smoke at the tail pipe and a "Very" rattly engine!

Given that your rig is a 1KD and "not" a 1KZ the odds of a blown head gasket is highly unlikely unless very un-Lucky of course!

Hope it is something simple like a injector seating washer but don't sound like it?

Given that your rig has 176,000km on the clock i would definitely get the intake manifold removed and cleaned and if injector seats are breached i wouldn't be surprised if oil-pick-up is restricted given that the oil light flickered.

Hope all comes good in a cheap so-to speak manner and keep us all up-dated!

Cheers