There's no consistency across the dealers when it comes to policy so I doubt head office knows anything about anything.
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diesel rattle in D4D Prado
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Dave
Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.
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Originally posted by 120D4D View PostDid you get a response from Baileys on the use of fuel additives?
There was no definitive response to the negative. My D4D is running better than ever... quiet from even the coldest of starts and smooth as silk.
I should add... I have been using BP Diesel (not Ultimate) exclusively, FWIW. On a recent country trip I covered a little over 1500km and managed economy of 10.6L/100km, which is 1-2L better than prior to the change of injectors.Last edited by stanmiko; 14-08-2015, 09:02 PM.Stan Miko
- 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D
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Who should I approach to have my inlet manifold and EGR cleaned out? And what cost range should I be expecting?
I have a can of LIQUI MOLY PROLINE Diesel Intake System Cleaner but have been busy and it is still unused...
I guess a catch-can and EGR Blanking Plate (10mm hole) is next?Stan Miko
- 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D
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Originally posted by stanmiko View PostWho should I approach to have my inlet manifold and EGR cleaned out? And what cost range should I be expecting?
I have a can of LIQUI MOLY PROLINE Diesel Intake System Cleaner but have been busy and it is still unused...
I guess a catch-can and EGR Blanking Plate (10mm hole) is next?
$300-$1000? But don't just get the manifold pulled off. It very rarely needs that.
7mm hole.
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Originally posted by Anth120playdo View PostI can be there WEDNESDAY, lol...........
$300-$1000? But don't just get the manifold pulled off. It very rarely needs that.
7mm hole.
Could I use the LIQUI MOLY Diesel Intake System Cleaner sprayed into the air intake AFTER the I/C...??? I think that is how they recommend using it???
Saw your 7mm EGR Blanking Plate suggestion in another thread I am still reading... TY for the link... already purchased!Stan Miko
- 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D
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Originally posted by stanmiko View PostLOL... Halfway between Cessnock and Maitland, NSW... 35mins West of Newcastle...
Could I use the LIQUI MOLY Diesel Intake System Cleaner sprayed into the air intake AFTER the I/C...??? I think that is how they recommend using it???
Saw your 7mm EGR Blanking Plate suggestion in another thread I am still reading... TY for the link... already purchased!
There's a lot of crud in there you'd prefer doesn't go through your engine, turbo & cat.
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Originally posted by Anth120playdo View PostI would not recon end any spray cleaners till you know it's pretty clean, perhaps use to keep it clean, but not to clean it.
There's a lot of crud in there you'd prefer doesn't go through your engine, turbo & cat.
And how do you clean the crud out of the manifold without removing it completely?Stan Miko
- 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D
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Originally posted by stanmiko View PostIs it a very technical job, or is it something that a decent DIYer could handle?
And how do you clean the crud out of the manifold without removing it completely?
You could be ok, others who have done it spent most of a day & p.i.t.a.
I don't recommend d.i.y unless your are very patient & good on tools. It's very fiddly.
The kind f job you just pay the $500 & let the expert do it, it's only going to get done once or perhaps every 5 years with injectors.
The manifold is not usually full of crud, it's more the elbow.
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Originally posted by Anth120playdo View PostTo be honest, I like to teach the owners how to d.i.y as much as possible, so I can concentrate on the hard / technical stuff.
You could be ok, others who have done it spent most of a day & p.i.t.a.
I don't recommend d.i.y unless your are very patient & good on tools. It's very fiddly.
The kind f job you just pay the $500 & let the expert do it, it's only going to get done once or perhaps every 5 years with injectors.
The manifold is not usually full of crud, it's more the elbow.
Sorry, missed your PM ############# till it was too late to respond.Stan Miko
- 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D
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Found something interesting today, the diesel rattle on mine is coming back but slightly different. Ran techstream and injector feedback readings all the same as when i put the BDG injectors in 40K ago. Only worry is the fuel pressure against target, always a little low. So changed both filters, i run a 2 micron parker filter after the OEM unit and next morning noise reduced. Next morning tried with the 2 micron removed and even less rattle.
Will run techstream over the weekend to monitor if the target and actual pressure are closer. Regardless of filters the rattle stops after the engine reaches 50 deg C.
Theory: when pump is a bit old any extra restriction such as dirty filters or too much filtration causes pressure not to target and the ecu opens the injectors to compensate.
Rusty.08 VX D4D, Lift, Safari Snorkle, Trailblazer Fridge, Custom Storeage System, BFG, ARB Safari Bar, Wife, Kids, Codan NGT HF Radio, Debt.
06 100 Series Sahara, Bilteins, Kings, Beaudesert 3", Diff drop, Unichip Q4, Safari Intercooler, EGR delete, 20ft Bushtracker, Codan Envoy more coming.
Sometimes i wake up Grumpy, most times i leave her sleep.
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Originally posted by Rusty62 View PostFound something interesting today, the diesel rattle on mine is coming back but slightly different. Ran techstream and injector feedback readings all the same as when i put the BDG injectors in 40K ago. Only worry is the fuel pressure against target, always a little low. So changed both filters, i run a 2 micron parker filter after the OEM unit and next morning noise reduced. Next morning tried with the 2 micron removed and even less rattle.
Will run techstream over the weekend to monitor if the target and actual pressure are closer. Regardless of filters the rattle stops after the engine reaches 50 deg C.
Theory: when pump is a bit old any extra restriction such as dirty filters or too much filtration causes pressure not to target and the ecu opens the injectors to compensate.
Rusty.
Fuel pressure is usually just under target. At 35000 normal jumps from 32000 to about 35000.
They can jump a bit, you need to look at reaction time, & as long as its not jumping round too much.
Sometimes you cannot diagnose, Scv is another wear n tear item often causing problems around 200,000k.
So if you have not yet changed it...........
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Originally posted by Anth120playdo View PostCheers for sharing, as you do.
Fuel pressure is usually just under target. At 35000 normal jumps from 32000 to about 35000.
They can jump a bit, you need to look at reaction time, & as long as its not jumping round too much.
Sometimes you cannot diagnose, Scv is another wear n tear item often causing problems around 200,000k.
So if you have not yet changed it...........
SCV changed earlier this year. Did make a difference to reaction times but the old unit was not too bad.
Rusty.08 VX D4D, Lift, Safari Snorkle, Trailblazer Fridge, Custom Storeage System, BFG, ARB Safari Bar, Wife, Kids, Codan NGT HF Radio, Debt.
06 100 Series Sahara, Bilteins, Kings, Beaudesert 3", Diff drop, Unichip Q4, Safari Intercooler, EGR delete, 20ft Bushtracker, Codan Envoy more coming.
Sometimes i wake up Grumpy, most times i leave her sleep.
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Originally posted by Anth120playdo View PostCheers for sharing, as you do.
Fuel pressure is usually just under target. At 35000 normal jumps from 32000 to about 35000.
They can jump a bit, you need to look at reaction time, & as long as its not jumping round too much.
Sometimes you cannot diagnose, Scv is another wear n tear item often causing problems around 200,000k.
So if you have not yet changed it...........Stan Miko
- 2007 120 Series 3.0L D4D
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