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Manual Mapper Project for Toyota Diesel Engines

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  • Hi again Ozbush, one of the lads (at the below link) has installed a "Unichip" piggy back ECU type device, and there is a comment that it can turn off the EGR....what are you thoughts or comments...because if you can turn off the EGR electronically, without a blank and without fault codes, you'd be onto a winner....do you have any comments please Ozbush

    http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...082#post539082
    SE Qld: GX 150GD Auto, (Feb'16 build): TJM T15 steel b bar, 9,500lb TORQ winch, TJM s steps, Rhino Pioneer Platform (42102B 1928X1236mm), front recovery points, Wynnum towbar, P3 brake controller, TNN Underbody guards, UHF, TREKtable & LED striplight, Custom Fridge & Drawers, Waeco CFX50, 9inch illuminator 160W LED spots, 40mm lifted Dobinson Suspension (Zordo's), ScanguageII, 30 Sec Wing Awning

    Comment


    • Originally posted by brogers View Post
      Hey dear Ozbush, perhaps it is best to stick to designing and describing the electronics that you know so well, and maybe leave the "mechanical" or "diesel fitting" aspects to those particular experts

      Just a friendly and jovial suggestion
      You are absolutely right about that.
      However, I get too many inquiries about it so I decided to make my own articles to combine with the packages.
      Unless some nice gentleman decided to donate a good article for everyone so I can use it for my website then I will be eternally grateful.
      On the other hands, I have done quite a play around with engine stuff though.
      In my young days I have seen many engine tests and deliberate destruction with my electronics stuffs which controls the engines.
      I also did quite a few engine rebuild with blue print spec or stripping the car and rebuilding from ground up and so on.
      It just I am getting too old for that but I don't mind doing few bits.
      Thanks for your reminder that I am old :-(.
      Cheers
      Ozbush

      Comment


      • Originally posted by brogers View Post
        Hi again Ozbush, one of the lads (at the below link) has installed a "Unichip" piggy back ECU type device, and there is a comment that it can turn off the EGR....what are you thoughts or comments...because if you can turn off the EGR electronically, without a blank and without fault codes, you'd be onto a winner....do you have any comments please Ozbush

        http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...082#post539082
        I don't know much about Unichip.
        But Let's think about it logically.
        To control all those functions including EGR, Fuel pressure, Injection timing and boost and so on, you must be able to access the car computer software, and there are no other ways about it.
        The Remapping is changing engine operation parameters for power and also they can delete the EGR sections software while they were doing it.
        Any other ways to play around car computer parameters rather then just remapping, you still need to take out the car computer or ECU and reprogram it and make it interface through OBD plug. It means you will have a some sort of box to connect to car computer through OBD connector to change the working parameters once you have done some patches to your car computer.
        I recon it will be very expensive job and I have nothing against it. I could have done that very easily too but there is a reason why I am not touching the car computer.

        Thanks for the suggestion for the thought.

        The simplest way to delete the EGR system is access the car computer software and delete the EGR control sections of the software. That's all.

        Cheers
        Ozbush

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Mozz View Post
          Why not just block the EGR cooler at both ends and leave it at that.
          Hi Mozz, Sorry so long, have been on the go. Where do I block the Cooler on the other end???? It sounds like the way to go!
          I hope to have my Manual Mapper in for the weekend, but the boss has other plans. Painting I think. I have already run my engine gases through the Catch can and out to fresh air. Am looking forward to blanking off completely.Cheers mate. Bill.

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Mozz View Post
            Why not just block the EGR cooler at both ends and leave it at that.
            Hi again Mozz, Have you done the block at each end.If so where did you get the plate etc, etc??? Cheers Bill

            Comment


            • Originally posted by chardo View Post
              Hi again Mozz, Have you done the block at each end.If so where did you get the plate etc, etc??? Cheers Bill
              I would just fit another plate as in the pics. You'd have one already I assume where the cooler attaches to the cylinder head at the front. The other one will go between the the egr adaptor and the egr valve.
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              Comment


              • Originally posted by Mozz View Post
                I would just fit another plate as in the pics. You'd have one already I assume where the cooler attaches to the cylinder head at the front. The other one will go between the the egr adaptor and the egr valve.
                [ATTACH=CONFIG]22610[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]22610[/ATTACH]
                Crap pic and upside-down but you get the idea. I'd just make a blank plate from shim steel.

                Comment


                • Mozz, Thanks mate, will look into this, take care and cheers Bill.

                  Comment


                  • Update on my full block.
                    Been in for several months. Running the mapper at +7. No change in diesel usage but changes gears earlier than -5. (Lower rpm).
                    Boost at lower rpm has increased to max 15 psi but only for a little while when re applying the go pedal. Only in 1st and 2nd.
                    Turbo whistle more noticeable at idle. No issues re over boost on lift off accelerator. Boost falls instantly.

                    The only issue I am having is when towing at 100 kph and in 5th locked on load the temperature goes to 96deg C. Change to 4th locked and back to 88-90. Don't have a EGT gauge but would assume very high temp so anytime over 92 deg C use 4th locked.
                    Rusty.
                    08 VX D4D, Lift, Safari Snorkle, Trailblazer Fridge, Custom Storeage System, BFG, ARB Safari Bar, Wife, Kids, Codan NGT HF Radio, Debt.
                    06 100 Series Sahara, Bilteins, Kings, Beaudesert 3", Diff drop, Unichip Q4, Safari Intercooler, EGR delete, 20ft Bushtracker, Codan Envoy more coming.
                    Sometimes i wake up Grumpy, most times i leave her sleep.

                    Comment


                    • After reading the last 11 pages, when is it going to be ready for Prado 150

                      Comment


                      • Hi Rusty62,
                        Thanks for continuing to test our Manual Mapper and other supports.
                        Majority of members who got our Mapper has manual trans and not many owns Auto trans which your test is quite unique.
                        I have shifted over hundred mappers to Prado and Hilux owners now and most of them are with Manual Trans.
                        Most of them had no issues and all are happy except few had issues with unknown diesel chip brand which conflicted with our mapper.
                        They had to uninstall those unknown brand of diesel chip (wasn't working) which uses MAF sensors too. All other type diesel chips are no problem with our mapper no conflict.

                        I do have Prado 150 version of Prototype Manual Mappers in field test and working well too but it will take quite sometime to be ready for production.
                        It will still be around June.
                        Thanks
                        Cheers
                        Ozbush

                        Comment


                        • Fuel usage rate

                          We are already getting 6.8 min and around 8.6- 10/100kms on a stock engine D4D GXL 120 without the EGR blank or other engine mods. The mind boggles. We are still thinking of doing either a full blank or partial restriction with mapper / catch can anyway.
                          Waiting to contact Ant for a chat and all will be revealed and my mind made up. EGR / throttle body and UPPER pipes cleaned for 1K Bloody expensive but sounds critical.Maybe tomorrow when I have time and no headache from reading these epic posts!!

                          Cheers Heals

                          Originally posted by Ozbush View Post
                          Yes Tony,
                          I got Torque Pro apps and actually checked out for real fuel usage between tank to tank.
                          It was almost same and was out only by 1.8-2.2 litres AVG.
                          So the program is deadly accurate for fuel consumption measurement for long term L/100km setting.
                          I get around 6.8L/100km in motorway running from Sydney to Newcastle 150km of distance at 100kph in my manual geared Hilux with 1KDFTV engine.
                          My mapper setting was usually -5%.
                          I set mapper to +8% for caravan towing and I still get around 8-9L/100km.
                          Above figures are only for my car which has all the mods.
                          I have 3 inch exhaust, In cabin Mapper with full EGR block, crank case gas vent directly to air, EGR cooler block and about 250kg of camping gear load constantly at the back of ute.
                          The 3 inch exhaust does give me more instant power when I needed but it didn't contribute to fuel economy much.
                          Fuel consumption figure was same before and after the new pipe.
                          However, that $100 knock off version of snorkel gave me a lot of difference in power and economy especially hearty 2500-3000 RPM running.
                          I got a lot of benefit having snorkel. It somehow changed characteristic of the engine. I think it is about resonance length of the inlet pipe for charged air depending on RPM.

                          Cheers
                          Ozbush

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Stormtrooper View Post
                            We are already getting 6.8 min and around 8.6- 10/100kms on a stock engine D4D GXL 120 without the EGR blank or other engine mods. The mind boggles. We are still thinking of doing either a full blank or partial restriction with mapper / catch can anyway.
                            Waiting to contact Ant for a chat and all will be revealed and my mind made up. EGR / throttle body and UPPER pipes cleaned for 1K Bloody expensive but sounds critical.Maybe tomorrow when I have time and no headache from reading these epic posts!!

                            Cheers Heals
                            Hi
                            There is nothing to have headache. Just have a look at the Ebay for "Crank Case Vent filter" to see just how many of them are there world wide.
                            It is common thing for all over the world for EGR full block and direct vent. But it is yours to make up the mind.

                            Cheers
                            Ozbush

                            Comment


                            • MAF Sensor Cleaning

                              Hi Gents,
                              I had many inquiries about how to clean MAF sensor as many members had trouble with it.
                              Sometimes our Manual Mapper get into trouble when the MAF sensor is in bad condition.
                              Unlike old style vane type air velocity sensor new and modern MAF sensor is literally a Mass air flow sensor. It detects the density of air and velocity, and of course incoming air temperature too.
                              It is housed in plastic casing with aluminium base for electronics in bridge configuration to detect air density which needed for combustion parameter calculation. Car computer will use this MAF sensor, turbo boost sensor (MAP) to work out the injection rate of the fuel. Air density will also be compensated with incoming temperature at the inlet.
                              Many people including some mechanics only clean incoming air temp sensor.

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                              This MAF sensor is from Ozbush has special sensor element instead of platinum wires for fast response racing.
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                              As you see in the photo IAT (Incoming Air Temp) is located at the side of the actual sensor wall.
                              The real MAF sensor is located deep inside of the chimney at the base of the sensor and not easily visible.
                              They are constructed in fine gauge of platinum wires and very fragile, so don't touch it. If you do they will simply crack and disintegrate.
                              Despite having air filter MAF sensor gets very dirty. It build up scums or plaque and making sensor inaccurate over time.
                              Many MAF sensors also ages with time and become not serviceable.
                              The scum can be very hard and many sensor cleaners will not work very well. But due to fragility of electronics I do not recommend soaking up over night in the solvent. It will damaged it.

                              I have tried many cleaner but so far engine de-greaser was best solution to remove hard plaque.
                              However, just watch out some engine degreaser spray leaves creamy like residue.
                              I recommend spraying engine degreaser first then use normal sensor cleaner for final clean.
                              Just aim the nozzle at the platinum wire without touching it. Be careful not to touch the wire inside.
                              Spray few seconds then wait until all the liquids are drained out then spray again and again.
                              Some MAF sensors, I had to spray degreaser quite sometime until all the scums were off.

                              Then spray CRC sensor cleaner for few times to finish off.
                              Let it dry out completely before you fit it back.
                              Many people did get benefit from MAF sensor cleaning which was quite noticeable in engine performance but some others didn't feel any different.

                              One more thing, the MAF sensor connector is very hard to unplug from the body.
                              You need to push the plastic tab on top of the connector then pull out the connector by wiggling side to side (while you are pushing the tab).
                              I have seen few people damaged the MAF sensor by levering with screw driver. Never do that.

                              Should you have any more questions PM me or write me to [email protected]

                              Cheers
                              Ozbush
                              Ozbush
                              Junior Member
                              Last edited by Ozbush; 11-03-2016, 03:38 PM. Reason: More Photos

                              Comment


                              • That's very handy information, I have a very clean intake air temperature sensor, will be checking out the actual MAF sensor first thing tomorrow

                                Cheers

                                Tony

                                Comment

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