DIY Engine oil change - which oil?

[1coolbanana Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close 1coolbanana]

Hey Marc, I'm thinking of doing the same. Could you tell me which oils you used and how many Ltrs from each I need ?
Also if that's alright which spark plugs you are using?
I'm planning to do the 150,000 service and like to arrange everything before I go to my Local mechanic...

Hi Shan
Oils I used are:
Nulon 10/40 Synth Engine
Transfer and diffs is all the same:
Nulon75-90 Synth Smooth Shift Gear and Transaxle Oil
Quantities I cant remember atm but are straight out of the handbook in your glovebox.
Auto trans was done by the transmission place up the road, 2 litres of oil and $120.
Spark plugs I havent changed yet.

This only applies to my petrol Grande, I dont know what youve got and it may vary.
Cheers

[timmay5.7 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close timmay5.7]

Auto trans was done by the transmission place up the road, 2 litres of oil and $120.
Spark plugs I havent changed yet.

This only applies to my petrol Grande, I dont know what youve got and it may vary.
Cheers

One thing I would advise checking, I had redline synthetic put into my auto box.
You shouldn't mix oils - especially mineral and syntheic. I used a fair bit more than 2l (I think closer to 13) to completely flush the auto box AND torque converter.

[Shan Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Shan]

Thanks for your input guys... thinking of doing the service next week.

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

I like the look of the oil drain valve. I thought I might add some info on the down side of changing oil too frequently.

A few years as a plant maintenance engineer I got to work with a guy who was an expert in lubrication and oils. He did a lot of work looking at heavy equipment and in particular dump trucks on the mines. The reason for this was to see if they could reduce the down time on the equipment and also to improve reliability.

Through a long study using oil sampling he found that the oil was being changed far too frequently when following the manufacturer’s recommendations. What amazed me were his findings on the cleanliness of oil straight out of the drum/container. He found that the oil initially had a higher level of particles that came from the oil manufacture, storage and transfer process. These impurities were filtered out in the first few hours of use in an engine, also during this time the filter actually 'clogged' up slightly and let through smaller particles.

The upshot of this is that overly frequent oil changes do nothing for the engine and may cause additional wear, and after a lot of negotiation he was able to convince the manufacturer to lengthen the oil change interval without losing warranty. Oil sampling at our site confirmed his findings.

The proviso is that these heavy equipment engines are kept at operating temperatures for long periods of time, unlike car engines which tend to cycle far more frequently and hence the oil doesn't breakdown and lose its properties as quickly.

The other lesson which I applied to all my fixed plant was that breathers are a primary source of dirt into the systems, which means that it's important to make sure all breathers are filtered to the same standards as the oil.

So dark oil is not necessarily a sign of oil losing its properties, but of the oil doing its job. The metal particles and other debris that can cause real damage don’t give the oil a dark colour, the dark colour comes from combustion by-products which are generally small and relatively harmless. Changing oil too frequently may introduce more of the damaging particles and do more damage than changing to schedule.


Below is something I found on the internet

The Dark Oil Myth
Dark oil does not indicate the need for an oil change. The way modern detergent motor oil works is that minute particles of soot are suspended in the oil. These minute particles pose no danger to your engine, but they cause the oil to darken. A non-detergent oil would stay clearer than a detergent oil because all the soot would be left on the internal engine parts and would create sludge. If you never changed your oil, eventually the oil would no longer be able to suspend any more particles in the oil and sludge would form. Fortunately, by following the manufacturer's recommended oil change interval, you are changing your oil long before the oil has become saturated. Remember, a good oil should get dirty as it does it's work cleaning out the engine. The dispersant should stop all the gunk from depositing in the oil pan.

The only real way to determine whether oil is truly in need of changing is to have an oil analysis performed. Since most people don't want to bother with this, it's acceptable to err heavily on the safe side and simply follow the manufacturer's recommended change interval for severe service. There are still a few cars that specify 3K intervals for severe service, but not many. If you look at countries other than the U.S., the oil recommended change interval is much higher than even the normal interval specified by vehicle manufacturers in the U.S

[Bidla Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bidla]

Wow Krypto! Here I was thinking that I was doing my engine a favour by dumping the oil every 5,000klms! What were your mates recommendation on filter replacements?

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

Wow Krypto! Here I was thinking that I was doing my engine a favour by dumping the oil every 5,000klms! What were your mates recommendation on filter replacements?

I can't remember, but I change the filter with the oil. I notice that some manufacturers change the filter every 2nd oil change.

I forgot to mention, regardless of how often you change oil if you use funnels or fillers they must be squeaky clean. I often see funnels and filler tubes left in the open, particularly at workshops. It only takes a short while for dust to get into the fillers and from there it goes straight into the engine the next time its used.

I'm sure some people will strongly disagree with this, I know my mechanic strongly disagrees, but I saw the oil sample results myself.

I've never changed oil more than every 10000km on my cars and never had any wear issues. I generally change my cars at around 200k, but I'm planning to keep the 150 longer than that.

[Shan Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Shan]

Interesting info Krypto !!! It's a shame that even qualified mechanics do advice everyone that changing oil frequently would help the engine of the cars...
As you mentioned just wondering whether this is true only for engines that runs almost non-stop.

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

I have some good mates who I rate very highly as mechanics, but a lot of the stuff is done just because its always been done that way. Oils and lubricants have come a long way.

A good check next time you take your car in for a service is to have a look how the oils are handled, are drums left open and fillers not sealed. If an oil tap is in the open and is left it accumulates dirt. Often the workshops transfer oil between drums before it gets to your car, is this done cleanly? This will give you an idea of whether the mechanic really understands oils and lubricants.

When you think about the cost of oils and the trouble we go to, its amazing to see how poorly oil is often handled. I think of oil like the blood of an engine and it needs to treated accordingly, hydraulic systems are the same. After the initial run in period most failures in hydraulic systems happen because dirt gets into the system through breathers or when hoses are changed.

[Whatever Member Find all posts View Profile Close Whatever]

I have installed one of these and hassles with oil changes are now history.

It is very well engineered and very secure, worth every dollar.

http://autospeed.com/cms/title_The-Fumo ... ticle.html

Where did you buy one of these and does it open while off road if something hits it thanks pm me please thanks corey

[wooley Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close wooley]

Where did you buy one of these and does it open while off road if something hits it thanks pm me please thanks corey

Search fumoto Australia and buy through them. Next day delivery and 5% off at the moment. F103 is the part number.

[bh2905 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close bh2905]

which spec oil r people using

just about to do an oil change on v6 120 which has 235,000 on the clock and im just wondering what viscosity and what brands of oil everyone is using was using nulon full syn 15w 50 but not sure if i should trying something else as it the engine is a bit nosier than before

[Auss15 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Auss15]

Iv'e been using the Nulon in all my vehicles and have been very happy with the engine running and performance.

When you say nosier, is that on start up or running.

15w 50w is a heavier oil so maybe on cold start it will be a bit nosier, I use 10w 40w in my Prado with 175Ks on the speedo

[bh2905 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close bh2905]

it is a little bit more tappety than before i was using the 10w40 syn and its what im thinkng i might go back to but i would love to hear what others r using and what is working for them

[Steve M Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Steve M]

I was using magnatec but am now using the genuine Toyota VVTI oil in both my Toyota's. I used full synthetic once before in my commodore and found the engine to be so bloody tappety, (we bought the commodore new and was quit before I changed oil) thinking I was doing the write thing using synthetic would increase engine life and be good internally. I was told not to use synthetic as the commodore had roller rockers (from the factory) and they do not like synthetic oil. I went back to normal mineral oil and the engine was so much quitter. Now funny thing is HSV recommend only synthetic and they use the same roller rockers ??? Might explain why the 5.7L engines at the time were so bloody rattly, they were shocking...........I personally think the 15/50 is way to thick for a VVTI engine. 10/30 would be more the better choice...........Cheers Steve

[8608 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close 8608]

Maybe a little different living up here.

I use titan ultra lube 15/40 by fuchs. Running this since 1000km old.

That's fuchs as in chooks and not fuchs as in ducks.