Sump gasket

[RustyTruck Member Find all posts View Profile Close RustyTruck]

G'day,

Just took the front bash plate off to check the bottom of the motor over. Found oil leaks from around the front of the motor, pretty sure its the sump gasket.

Anyone out there ever had to replace one? If so, what did it set you back and was it a pita??

Thanks a heap :wink:

[clifton Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close clifton]

Re: Sump gasket

G'day,

Just took the front bash plate off to check the bottom of the motor over. Found oil leaks from around the front of the motor, pretty sure its the sump gasket.

Anyone out there ever had to replace one? If so, what did it set you back and was it a pita??

Thanks a heap :wink:

Hi Rusty Truck,
I have changed a few sump pan gaskets, but not on the Prado, I am sure Mick L will have done the odd one or ten and will respond, In the intrim I would degrease the area effected, particularly in way of the front crankshaft seal area behind the belt drive pulley and all around the sump seal area, I would then gently with a socket and extension bar "gently nip up" the sump pan bolts alternating from side to side to ensure a nice even pressure is applied the the sump pan gasket, try not to miss any bolts it may require a change to a ring spanner for the difficult ones. if you have done these tasks already disregard. I have found that the sump pan gaskets on modern 4Wd's are pretty reliable but the sump bolts loosen over time.
You may also have a leaking front crankshaft seal but hopefully not, any leaks will show up in a few days if you have, then I would look at replacing the sump gasket or C/Shaft seal.
Changing the sump pan seal/ gasket is not hard but I always use a hoist in a clean and dust free environment when opening up sumps, normally the biggest issue is suspension components obstructing access on some vehicles which makes the job more interesting.
Hope this helps a little

[RustyTruck Member Find all posts View Profile Close RustyTruck]

Re: Sump gasket

Hey mate,

Thanks a heap for your quick reply.

Hit it with abit of degreaser I had left over and washer it off. Got the sump pan gasket clean, but still seems to be some oil up behind the pulley in the pic below.

Is the crankshaft seal behind the big pulley? Whats required to do put a new crankshaft seal in? I dont like the sound of it :cry:

Once again, appreciate your help Clifton.

Cheers,

RT

[clifton Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close clifton]

Re: Sump gasket

Hey mate,

Thanks a heap for your quick reply.

Hit it with abit of degreaser I had left over and washer it off. Got the sump pan gasket clean, but still seems to be some oil up behind the pulley in the pic below.

Is the crankshaft seal behind the big pulley? Whats required to do put a new crankshaft seal in? I dont like the sound of it :cry:

Once again, appreciate your help Clifton.

Cheers,

RT

Hi RT,
Yes the crankshaft seal is behind the drive belt pulley as you have indicated, checking out your pic I would be lot more liberal with the old degreaser and the garden hose and get the front of the engine a lot cleaner to narrow down the oil leak source, the way oil has been thrown around on the power steering hydraulic line, and the runs down the front of the sump pan indicates an oil leak in the engine front area. I would get it clean and you will be suprised how easy it will be to pinpoint the source of the leak. If it is the front C/Shaft seal it will get moist around behind the pulley in a couple of days and you will see oil thrown around the surrounding components. I would also clean up around the engine block in way of the timing chain cover and cylinder heads to ensure no oil leaks from above.

[RustyTruck Member Find all posts View Profile Close RustyTruck]

Re: Sump gasket

Clifton,

Thanks once again mate. I will duck down to supercheap and grab a few more can when I get a chance. If it is the crankshaft seal, what is required to change it?

[clifton Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close clifton]

Re: Sump gasket

Clifton,

Thanks once again mate. I will duck down to supercheap and grab a few more can when I get a chance. If it is the crankshaft seal, what is required to change it?

Hi RT,
I would degrease and check your sump bolt tensions first noting the 1GR-FE V6 engine has two sump assemblies an upper alloy section and a lower section, check these first, I would then check for leaks around the timing case and upper cylinder head rocker/valve covers, then if all OK. check the front crankshaft seal area. Having not changed a 1GR-FE front crankshaft seal I would be loath to give you any mis-information, but checking the V6 layout and location of the steering rack I would say its a big job. The sump pan arrangement on the 1GR-Fe is not just a simple 1 cork gasket jobby either, as the alloy top section incorporates oil return and oil pump supply galleries there are a number of o-ring seals involved so would require good mechanical knowledge to replace.
I dont want to sound gloom and doom, just follow the degreaser path get your engine spotless, and check again for leaks with a powerfull torch/inspection light.

[RustyTruck Member Find all posts View Profile Close RustyTruck]

Re: Sump gasket

Cleaned it up pretty well a week or so back. Am currently still waiting to see where its leaking from. Although I have only done about 80km since it has been clean.

Printed off a workshop manual, having abit of a read through it at the moment.

Thanks for the help so far :wink:

[clifton Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close clifton]

Re: Sump gasket

Cleaned it up pretty well a week or so back. Am currently still waiting to see where its leaking from. Although I have only done about 80km since it has been clean.

Printed off a workshop manual, having abit of a read through it at the moment.

Thanks for the help so far :wink:

No problems keep a close eye on it and you should find the source of the leak!

[Bankrupt Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bankrupt]

Re: Sump gasket

Once cleaned up you may be able to seal off the area with Sikaflex. I know it seems dodgy but it may save you a whole lot of effort. I got sick of the sump gaskets leaking on a Holden red 6 and decided to sikaflex it on...never leaked again.

[clifton Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close clifton]

Re: Sump gasket

Once cleaned up you may be able to seal off the area with Sikaflex. I know it seems dodgy but it may save you a whole lot of effort. I got sick of the sump gaskets leaking on a Holden red 6 and decided to sikaflex it on...never leaked again.

Jessus, Bankrupt, I use have used Sikaflex for many things its a great product, but on engine oil leaks :?: only in an emergency :!: and then I would probably use an RTV compound which I carry when off-road for such emergencies. Those red motor sumps used cork seals and the sealing flanges were easily distorted due to over tensioning of the sump fasteners and often needed retensioning etc.. The V-6 Tojo sump pans and engine block matting surfaces are streets ahead in both design and sealing methods and normally only require a retension of the fasteners. Sorry to be a PITA but I would not take the cheap road out for such a repair as it will come back later a bite you in the pocket one way or the other.

[Bankrupt Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bankrupt]

Re: Sump gasket

Once cleaned up you may be able to seal off the area with Sikaflex. I know it seems dodgy but it may save you a whole lot of effort. I got sick of the sump gaskets leaking on a Holden red 6 and decided to sikaflex it on...never leaked again.

Jessus, Bankrupt, I use have used Sikaflex for many things its a great product, but on engine oil leaks :?: only in an emergency :!: and then I would probably use an RTV compound which I carry when off-road for such emergencies. Those red motor sumps used cork seals and the sealing flanges were easily distorted due to over tensioning of the sump fasteners and often needed retensioning etc.. The V-6 Tojo sump pans and engine block matting surfaces are streets ahead in both design and sealing methods and normally only require a retension of the fasteners. Sorry to be a PITA but I would not take the cheap road out for such a repair as it will come back later a bite you in the pocket one way or the other.

Not sure why you are so alarmed...it's widely used and totally suitable for the job. Remember there are many Sikaflex products and many that suit an automotive application. Afterall they glue marine windows in with it, Commodore / Falcon firewalls etc...a cheap way out it isn't...it's a practical way.

Anyway each to his own...