According to ARB, they won't be developing rated recovery points for the 120 series. If ARB develop any rated recovery points for a Prado, it will be for the 150 series.
"Sure it’s quiet, for a diesel, but that’s like being well-behaved… for a murderer."- Jeremy Clarkson
Stew, you need to shorten the top bolts on your recovery points otherwise they will hit the body mounts when driving (particularly off-road). Some people shorten the body mounts but I personally feel it's better to shorten the recovery point bolts.
Steve's second photo shows the problem better:
Reckon just hacksaw off the end of the bolt?
[COLOR="red"]Stew[/COLOR]
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If you're not sure about the effectiveness of your recovery points then get on your guts, slide under the front of the car and locate a bridle strap between the front lower suspension arms. Attach each end with a shackle, running the eye of your snatch strap through the bridle. Problem solved.
Dave
Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.
Hi there Bushbasher, I would/have use my hooks if I had to, the point I see is alot of 4wd clubs and including the PP demand (if that is the write word, not offending anyone I hope) that proper rated recovery hooks be used, now we have a problem that I can see because the ones I have looked at for my 120 (2 different brands) none are rated unlike the ones I had on my both my 95 series. So even if I get after market recovery hooks technically they are not rated to suit outings with 4wd clubs/websites.??? I will get some after market ones fitted anyway. The only thing I suppose ?? may be rated would be the high tesile bolts ?? Cheers Steve
As an idea that i will put out there,if you had a soverign bar, no winch fitted and got hold of a toyota winch mounting frame ,modify this frame to include a cross member that would effectively take the place of the unoccuppied winch space and include a recovery point on this frame i would think that you would be able to snatch from this point. The mounting point force would be not much different to that of a winch pull. The frame would not be engineered rated but it seems that the problem is not so much as the attached recovery point but the point at which they are attached to the chasiss. The resulting point would not be much different to inserting a recovery point into a towbar at the rear and using this for vehicle recovery,[i do worry about this also with the crap cast toyota towbar].I guess you could do the same with other bullbars that may have winch provisions.I am no engineerbut am ok with welder
Just thinking ideas out aloud
Russ
New 2015 150s GX 5 seater with floor mats, towbar and a big wish list
Previously a 2004 120s 1KZ GX silver manual with stuff
before that a 1996 RV6 90S with lots of gear
I understand your idea Russ, here's what ARB had to say when I asked them about it:
"Winches are quite different to a snatch recovery when it come to loads placed on the bull bar. The winch has a “stall” point that prevents over loading at the winches capability so that the winch is operated within its capability, whereas a snatch recovery can have an uncontrolled load placed on the recovery points of the bogged vehicle. The load on the bogged vehicle is completely dependant on the recovering vehicle’s speed and the ability of the snatch strap to stretch and recoil within its limits. Most snatch straps are rated to 8000kg breaking strain in comparison to a winches maximum load of 4100kg for a 9000lb winch."
The force applied in a snatch is quite different to the force applied by a winch. As ARB say, a snatch has a much higher load plus it is a shock load rather than the gradual application you get from a winch.
ARB also had this to say regarding recovery:
"In practice the two towing points on the mount frame of the ARB bar can be used in a recovery situation where a bridal is used to share the load between the tow points and the recovering vehicle is driven at a very moderate speed to tow the vehicle out rather than snatch it out."
120 series any later model than mine, no bolts on the loops on mine, just welded....
Cheers Andrew
OK Guys I give up. I've been away and my tapatalk doesn't seem to be talking to the server - what ever that means. So I apologise for the delayed response.
I think Steve M and Andrew have put it clearly and I am convinced you are both correct. My only issue now is who sells rated recovery points for the 120?
Cheers - Greg
Greg - 08 D4D Prado,
Some trips done - Cape York, Fraser Island, Simpson Desert / Central Aust, Vic High Country.
No one I know of will sell you a "rated" recovery point, but you can get the Outback Ideas "tow" points, as long as you have either no bullbar or a Soverign or an Xrox bar: http://www.fnb4wd.com.au/prod1011.htm
Same as what Stew has fitted to his earlier in this thread.
Shame i cant get these fitted with a soverign toyota bar. Not sure what the bloody hell Im supposed to use. The toyota bullbar uses one of these holes for its brackets ????? At the moment onlyhave the toyota loops hanging there which will get me out of trouble if need be but not acceptable by PP for any trips.. Cheers Steve
Actually, these can be fitted with a Toyota Soverign bar.
"Sure it’s quiet, for a diesel, but that’s like being well-behaved… for a murderer."- Jeremy Clarkson
My only issue now is who sells rated recovery points for the 120?
Cheers - Greg
If only it was that easy; we wouldn't have all this debate! As far as I can tell no one sells "rated" recovery points specifically for the 120. Apart from that there is no standard to tell what something should be rated too.
I use the following as a guide, it is taken from the 4 wheel drive SA driver training manual SRO DRV 001B drive and recover a 4WD vehicle, which is a nationally recognised traing course developed by the Australian 4WD clubs association.
6.1.2 Recovery points.
Recovery points must be attached to the front and rear of the vehicle. At each recovery point, rated recovery hooks must be securely attached to the vehicle chassis or on solid mounting points that are securely attached to the chassis.
If these recovery points are bolted to the chassis, high tensile bolts of the appropriate size must be used to attach them.
WARNING:
Tie down points are not recovery points and must not be used for recovery purposes. Tie down points have only been designed to restrain vehicle movement while being transported.
So if you read the first paragraph they need to be attached directly to the chassis or on a solid mounting point attached to the chassis, this makes the Outback ideas almost good enough, only they are not rated. That is one of the reasons I choose to add "rated" recovery hooks such as these
They are available from any 4wd store for about 20 bucks. With these hooks attached they comply with the rules for 4WD recovery course we teach, unfortuantely these are a DIY job for the brackets as I am not aware of anyone who makes them.
I was at the ARB stand at the 4x4 show this arvo looking at the new ARB Rated recovery points in which ARB are bringing out recovery points for both the 120 & 150. Looking at the recovery point to suit another vehicle they are a bloody heavy duty bit of kit!(see below) Looks to be about 20mm thick steel plate. The 120 recovery points are expected to be around the $200 mark each + fitting!
Interesting, last time I spoke to ARB they said they wouldn't be developing new products for the 120 series, including recovery points, scrub bars and side steps or sliders. I was told that recovery points were in the pipeline for the 150 series.
"Sure it’s quiet, for a diesel, but that’s like being well-behaved… for a murderer."- Jeremy Clarkson
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