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If installed incorrectly.... then a slim Jim into the drivers will unlock and disarm the entire car.
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In case anyone is interested, I'm more than happy to share the wiring diagram for the 120 series Prado with how to install an alarm into one.Comment
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I have a 2006 120 GXL diesel, it has the Toyota Grande GPS in dash also alarm / immobilizer. I only found out about the alarm by accident it just went off one day no reason, I had to dive for cover I thought the police were after me. Jokes aside is my car an oddity I bought it like this. The gps is great.Comment
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This is what I use for the Prado 120 when adding an upgrade alarm.
Constant: Red @ 2pin plug on the big junction/fusebox
Ignition: Blue/Yellow @ 2pin plug on junction box
Indicator Input: Blue/Black @ second last plug on bottom of junction box
Light Flash: Green wire. Top white plug on junction box. This is not the indicators, it's the park lights. Upgrade alarms should NEVER use indicators for light flash.
Unlock Input +: Blue/Yellow in harness going into drivers door. Accessible from drivers kick panel
Lock Input +: Blue/Black in harness going into drivers door. Accessible from drivers kick panel
Door Trigger: Red/Green @ 7pin connector on the ignition barrel
As yet, I have not seen a prado with a bonnet switch from factory. IF anyone has some info on that... I'd appreciate the share.Comment
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G'day,
Have put a half dozen or so alarms in various vehicles of the years and never had a problem... until the prado. Almost impossible to find any information on where to splice the alarm wires in. Mine is a late 2007 model 120 series turbo diesel GXL and I am buggered if I can get it done.
I also thought the unlock and lock door wires were the blue/yellow (although that only lights up with test light when I LOCK the car doors) and the Blue/Black lights the test light up when I unlock the doors... BUT you said they are + input... so test these I ran a positive wire from the battery and touched it to a stripped part of both of those wires (one at a time of course) and they just sparked and got hot real quick so I pulled wire off. No damage but certainly didn't lock or unlock the doors.
As for the Door trigger on the 7 pin connector on the ignition barrell, my car doesn't have a red/green wire on the 7 pin connector.
Last question...when you say Indicator Input... what do you mean by that and what is "indicator input" for?
The alarm I am going to put in is a viper 5906 but I have no idea how the remote start is going to work considering there will be no key to access the transponder...
May have bitten off more than I can chew with this install... but I like to learn so shall persevere if I can get more info?
DeanComment
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Sounds like your a little out of your league.
If your shorting things you stand to do damage to the can bus or vehicle wiring.
Remote start won't work without the transponder. But t does your vehicle have a transponder ?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkComment
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Well you've picked a bloody complex alarm there mate! It is capable of so much more than of being an alarm and remote start also. mine can switch on my spotlights, work light and fire up my radio independant of accessories whenever I want and from outside the car. I have even hooked it up to winches to feed cable in or out. When I'm out camping out can start my engine f it detects my voltage is too low. If i remote start on cold mornings it will sail on my rear demister and heated seats. In my wife's mercedes it can automatically switch the heater to max or I can make it go minimum cold AC. But.... you need a really solid understanding of electronics. On a diesel you can make it wait for the glow plug light to go out before it cranks also.
I'm happy to help you out and if you live in/near Melbourne I'm happy for you to bring your truck to the workshop and help you t hat way (no charge). First off though.. throw away that piece of wire and your test light. Get a multimeter or a super duper LED test light. I have one made by Jaycar and it is the best damn tool I ever own. I often find it more useful than my $900 multimeter! You will also need to understand how a diode works... google "the12volt.com blocking diodes" and it'll be the first page and also get yourself pretty handy with relays. The Viper MUST be soldered into place. No crimp connectors or twisting and taping. Solder and quality insulation tape are a must. I prefer Nitto tape but so long as it is good quality and not cheap crap... You'll be fine.
For the remote start you'll need either a DEI PKALL or a 556U immobilizer bypass and a spare key to sacrifice to the install or get a locksmith to clone you a copy of your transponder without the actual key. The alarm will work without it but the remote start won't. The most reliable of the two methods is the 556U and transponder. Th pkall must be programmed and if you screw it up... the units toast as it can only be learnt once.
I will PM you my phone number and give me a call.
P.s. the lock wires are accidentally reversed in the list but it doesn't matter for you as they are only for an upgrade alarm... you have another two wires to find.Comment
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Geez RanJ that sounds cool as, and way too complex. Does your car have red LEDs and talk to you as well?
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkCheers
Blake
04 Silver Diesel GXL with lots of stuff
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Comment
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No...not quite. But my wife's mercedes has the Viper speech module fitted to it. Because she made the same joke. So to teach her a lesson everytime you unlocked the car my voice would pop out from under the hood rather loudly.
"Off shopping again are we darling?"
It lasted a week before the threats got to the point that I took notice haha... its disconnected now.Comment
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You could technically use this as a guide and has photos as well but I can't confirm accuracy so you would definetly need the multimate to confirm...
but it does have pretty pictures!
http://diagrams.marktoonen.nl/printl...&ModelID=19536Comment
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Oh, is that the model where you can hook up the side emitting flame throwers and the 50,000 volt shock deterrent?Originally posted by RanJ View PostDave
Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.Comment
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Well... if you've got the flame throwers and the generator for 50kv... then yep! It can switch them on and off.Comment
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D4D Prado GXL - 2014. 2" OME lift, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, ARB under body protection plates, ARB EZ Deflator, Weaco fridge, Matsen fridge on slide, BFG A/T's, ARB CKMA12 compressor, Oztrail side awning with LED lights PLUS canvas extension, Lightforce XGT's.. Oricom UHF380, GME AE4017
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I have found all previous ones easily and as with this I should probably have just went ahead... it was info that I read online that put me on the wrong track.. couldn't find much on Prado so downloaded Lexus GX470 tech sheet and it put me off. The wires I found and diagnosed as being positive trigger as the same ones that RANJ specified and they may well have worked but as I wasn't sure (and someone had told me Toyotas have negative trigger) I didn't feel comfortable with those two wires.Originally posted by Piggy View Post
Ended up going inside the door to the lock/unlock switch which was a simple negative trigger lock and unlock BUT believe it or not did NOT extend outside of the door... I checked each and every wire coming out of the drivers door and none tested as negative trigger the way they did coming out of the switch... so I spliced into them there and extended my own wires into the car... they work great now.
Should have done it that way in the beginning I guess and went with my gut.
DeanOComment
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