Air Con Tx valve, where is it?

[BiLLz0r Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close BiLLz0r]

Hi PP's. I posted this in the FB page but I know a lot of the technical people don't use FB.
Recently our AC stopped being cold. It was regassed and was great again. Now all of a sudden it's warm again. The AC guy last time said it's likely the Tx valve if the regas doesn't fix it.

Does anyone have any experience changing/finding this part?
I am handy with the tools but only to a certain extent (electronics is what I'm better at).

[Whitey Shockie Maker of the Month Award Find all posts View Profile Close Whitey]

Hi PP's. I posted this in the FB page but I know a lot of the technical people don't use FB.
Recently our AC stopped being cold. It was regassed and was great again. Now all of a sudden it's warm again. The AC guy last time said it's likely the Tx valve if the regas doesn't fix it.

Does anyone have any experience changing/finding this part?
I am handy with the tools but only to a certain extent (electronics is what I'm better at).

Hey,

I'd guess it's more likely your evaporator is leaking, which is what mine did.

You can change the evaporator in-situ, the expansion valve is on the driver side footwell, right up under the dash, you'll need to pull a bit out of the way, but you can do this at home and save yourself a few bucks! All you need to do is disconnect the valve from the evaporator on the driver side, and you can slide the evaporator out on the passenger side footwell.

Best

Mark

[4thsurf Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close 4thsurf]

Sorry never saw this on the FB page. I've had some issues with regassing the later Denso systems using hydrocarbon based refrigerants such as Hychill. By later I'm talking some 04 on Toyotas and other asian makes. Simple fact of the matter is that due to the hoses albeit being sheilded internally being made of natural rubber well they are to a degree porous. Over time and say for example 5 years the refrigerant will slowly seep out hence why needing a re-gass every now and then. Now as we discovered after ages and very expensive repairs to an 05 Kluger (which did have an evap leak due to cabin filter being installed incorrectly and evap rotting out from build up of dirt) the hydrocarbon gasses have a smaller molecular structure than say R134A. Therefore it will "Vanish" for want of a better word in a matter of days or weeks. This is a shame as it's a more efficient gas running lower pressures and giving colder A/C.

Most providers now seem to use Hychill or equivalent due to cost and less stringent licensing requirements. So Bill what I'd do is this. Go back to the guy that re-gassed your system. Ask what gas has been used. If hydrocarbon have him leak test first. If that comes up as a pass then re-gas with R134A.

And to answer the question the TX valve should be in the firewall where the pipes connect

[Madkore Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Madkore]

Just had TX valve replaced on mine after having similar issues to you Billzor.

Had my mechanic do it as I'm useless, but I believe you can access it under drivers side dash, without having to take too many bits off.

Aircon is now all good again!

[BiLLz0r Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close BiLLz0r]

Thx mate. I found it on the weekend. Just need someone to change it and regas the system now.

[turtlewa Member Find all posts View Profile Close turtlewa]

Hey Madcore If you don't mind me asking ...what did that cost you?