D.I.Y camp/rear door table

[J Janke Member Find all posts View Profile Close J Janke]

Thanks for everyones tips and tricks. I went ahead and made a table myself without to much drama.

[ktownprado Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close ktownprado]

Here is my handy work on the old 150 prado did the led light as well which works really well.

[zutta Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close zutta]

Love this place Some great setups with these tables.

I've finally got around to getting mine together, was waiting on the Aluminium Profile Alloy Channel for the LED strip which came today. sweeeet. Also added a small rocker switch for the led strip.









Thanks again fellas, Sharing is caring

Zutta

[foxclan Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close foxclan]

Nice upgrades to the rear doors there Fella's
Keep up the good work.
Cheers
Troy

[myminirocks Member Find all posts View Profile Close myminirocks]

Right, so I got together just about everything I need to make my table now. $76 all up, fingers crossed it all goes to plan.

1 question for everyone out there that has done this, how are the fasteners holding up that you have drilled through the plastic trim and into the door metal? I want to avoid having to take the rear trim off if possible, but I'm a bit worried that it really does need a bit of timber to 'pack' the gap between the trim and the metal.

I went with 12mm ply and a 3mm "whiteboard" top that I will liquid nail to each other essentially laminating the ply with a nice water proof easy clean surface on the top side, while still carpeting the bottom side. knowing that there will always be a join between the carpet and the top, I chose to use a bit of aluminium C channel to wrap the edges up, hoping to not only hide any joins or edges of the carpet, but also to protect the edges from impact, wear and moisture.

I am also hoping to install the LED strip above the table, can I ask, did everyone just tap into the power from the existing courtesy light? And if so, does that mean it is controlled from the same switch, ie, OFF/DOOR/ON, or have most of you connected in BEFORE the existing light, therefore you have a live wire, and just add a little rocker switch? Also, has anyone fused their install or are we just relying on the existing lighting fuse?

I'll get some pics up tomorrow of all the parts, hoping to have some time on Sunday to at least get started.

[cfryback Find all posts View Profile Close cfryback]

About the only thing that I can suggest is to mount the hinges on the door first. I did it the other way around, and didn't work as expected.

[myminirocks Member Find all posts View Profile Close myminirocks]

Ok, thanks cfryback

[AJ120 Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close AJ120]

I tapped into the power from the rear courtesy light for mine. There is a permanent power source to the light, so if you tap into that wire you can add a switch for your rear door light so you can turn it on and off as needed.

Have a look here http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post313413 for more detail.

Cheers Andrew

[myminirocks Member Find all posts View Profile Close myminirocks]

Thanks AJ, I like the placement of your switch, I think it may not suit my wife though. She'll forget where it is and get cranky at me for putting it in "such a stupid place". I do like the dropper hose idea for your conduit. I have a little of that lying around the farm!

[AJ120 Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close AJ120]

I can't take credit for the switch location, I borrowed that idea from Foxclan

Cheers Andrew

[Multimesto Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Multimesto]

Hi mate door looks good. Did you screw the screws going through the hinges into the metal as well or just timber behind plastic ? QUOTE=PradoStu;484974]Hi everyone, have been inspired by the thread so got busy and made up a table on my last break. Thanks for all the great ideas, next job - storage drawers.







I put carpet on the underside so that it would blend in when folded up and I got a composite board from Bunnings (nylon centre, aluminium on both sides) to put on the top so it could be wiped down easily. 12mm ply for the centre and then wrapped the edges with rubber strap from Clark Rubber. Couldn't get the exact width I wanted so after it was glued on I cut it to size with a sharp knife.
Removed the plastic from the door and all of the screws were run into bits of wood to give it a bit more strength, also the screws for the support straps were run into the steel of the door itself.

Bit of a combination of everybody elses ideas really. Thanks heaps guys!

I know it's an old thread but couldn't help saying thanks.[/QUOTE]

[Bigglesaust Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bigglesaust]

Heya - i used mudflap washers behind the holes drilled in the trim to spread the load . My power i tapped and ran through the Conduit from the body to the door.- Fiddly but neater than the way I've done the light on the back - power was running from my always on circuit from the second battery to cig lighter socket . I'm using 3 mm Aluminium checker plate also as the table . will post pick soon

[Bigglesaust Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bigglesaust]

Thanks for all the pic and advice guys . with your descriptions i took hold of an old piece of Aluminium Checker plate i had left over from a go kart build and did the same / Took photos of the parts as well if that helps : link to album on PP with Pics Attached . I didn't end up drilling into the Body only the trim


http://www.pradopoint.com/album.php?albumid=454

[djlingard Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close djlingard]

Time is a big issue for me, wondering if anyone out there would knock one up for me for a mates rates kinda price? Im in Brissy so if there is anyone within a 100km radius I'm happy to pay you to knock one up for me 😉

[macaroon1 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close macaroon1]

^ Or (not mates rates)! http://www.trektable.com.au/vehicles.php?vehicle=5