What suspension should I get?

[Cass Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Cass]

Hi Guys,

I have searched the forum to get this information but I guess it is pretty specialised so will just have to go ahead and ask.

I'm looking at upgrading the standard suspension on my newly purchased 2004 VX Diesel. It has done 150,000kms and has never been off road and is standard as can be. I would like to upgrade the suspension as I plan to turn it into a true tourer and it will be towing our camper trailer all over this amazing country. I would like to get into some decent 4WD tracks as well when ever I can.

So my question is what suspension options and packages should I be looking at. I have only spoken to ARB in regards to their Old Man Emu range. I have also heard people recommend airbags, and multiple other suspension ranges. I would like a lift as well to put on some bigger tyres but what is the easiest and most practical to do with out engineering certificates etc.

I also would like to start to do my own mod installation myself in the future but am guessing suspension isn't the place I should start my exploration?

Thanks so much for any advice!!

[AJ120 Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close AJ120]

No reason you can't install your own suspension, there is a DIY install guide in the 120 suspension section.

As for suspension brand, ask 10 people and you will get 12 different answers you will find good and bad reports on just about every brand, but if you stick with the decent brands you can't go too far wrong, just steer clear of the no name brands and eBay specials.

Whatever brand make sure you spring rates match your load, and if towing a set of air bags for rear adjustability is a good idea.

FWIW, I run OME and have been very happy with it, and my 120 has seen more rough roads than most.

Cheers Andrew

[Bschotty Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bschotty]

I've just been going through the same question. Was almost set on EFS 40mm front and rear but changed my mind and went for Old Man Emu. Getting fitted in a couple weeks. Both good suspensions but the OME has 40mm rear and 25mm front. This means less angle on CV's etc so lower chance of damage and hopefully better handling. going to cost about $500 more fitted though...
I wasn't looking for a massive lift. Just better handling on and off road (current suspension is very tired original). I'm also running 265/70 R17's so get a little extra clearance from them.

- Ben

[Prerderp Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Prerderp]

If you look at coil-assist airbags, (a couple of brands, firestone and polyair) they fit inside the rear coils so you can get whatever spring and shock combo you like. I've got Bilstein shocks and King springs, which are a pretty common combo and I highly recommend them. People often also buy Lovells springs with Bilsteins, as there's not much between kings and lovells.

In terms of not needing engineering done, under the National Code of Practice for light vehicle modifications, the biggest lift you can have without engineering approval is a 50mm lift, which can be a combination of suspension lift, body lift, or bigger tyres. Tyres are also limited to only being 25mm larger in radius than the originals (giving you a 25mm lift). In Queensland I know the rules are a bit friendlier, with a 75mm lift being allowed if you have a 50mm suspension or body lift, with 25mm larger radius tyres.

Honestly your best and safest bet is to keep the stock size tyres, and fitting a 50mm suspension lift.

And the first time I ever took a spanner to my car was to install my new suspension. Bought myself a workshop manual off eBay for $6, borrowed a torque wrench off a mate of mine, bought a compressor, rattle-gun, sockets, and axle stands from supercheap (for less money than I was quoted to have it fitted professionally) and got stuck into it. Took me over 6 hours, but I got it done, there's not too much you can get wrong as you're just swapping like-for-like parts out.

Also a tip if you're doing it yourself (and I haven't read the guide on here, maybe it says this already) but the workshop manual tells you to disconnect the brakes to drop the rear axle to replace the springs. You don't need to do this. The brake lines both come down in around the middle of the axle, so if you jack the back of the car up and put the chassis on stands, then jack up one rear wheel as high as you can without lifting the chassis of the stand, you can drop the other wheel down and replace the spring without pulling out the brake lines.

Good luck with it!

[oceanrunner Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close oceanrunner]

Just put bilstein in after having ironman. Very happy with the bilstein ....like chalk and chesse in my opinion

[Bschotty Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bschotty]

If you look at coil-assist airbags, (a couple of brands, firestone and polyair) they fit inside the rear coils so you can get whatever spring and shock combo you like. I've got Bilstein shocks and King springs, which are a pretty common combo and I highly recommend them. People often also buy Lovells springs with Bilsteins, as there's not much between kings and lovells.

In terms of not needing engineering done, under the National Code of Practice for light vehicle modifications, the biggest lift you can have without engineering approval is a 50mm lift, which can be a combination of suspension lift, body lift, or bigger tyres. Tyres are also limited to only being 25mm larger in radius than the originals (giving you a 25mm lift). In Queensland I know the rules are a bit friendlier, with a 75mm lift being allowed if you have a 50mm suspension or body lift, with 25mm larger radius tyres.

Honestly your best and safest bet is to keep the stock size tyres, and fitting a 50mm suspension lift.

And the first time I ever took a spanner to my car was to install my new suspension. Bought myself a workshop manual off eBay for $6, borrowed a torque wrench off a mate of mine, bought a compressor, rattle-gun, sockets, and axle stands from supercheap (for less money than I was quoted to have it fitted professionally) and got stuck into it. Took me over 6 hours, but I got it done, there's not too much you can get wrong as you're just swapping like-for-like parts out.

Also a tip if you're doing it yourself (and I haven't read the guide on here, maybe it says this already) but the workshop manual tells you to disconnect the brakes to drop the rear axle to replace the springs. You don't need to do this. The brake lines both come down in around the middle of the axle, so if you jack the back of the car up and put the chassis on stands, then jack up one rear wheel as high as you can without lifting the chassis of the stand, you can drop the other wheel down and replace the spring without pulling out the brake lines.

Good luck with it!

Is it pretty easy to fit airbags with any suspension combo? Would I be able to fit them later on if I find the rear's too soft with load? How do they work? Does it run off the under bonnet compressor similar to diff lock?

[Brougham Member Find all posts View Profile Close Brougham]

Yes they simply slot into the coils deflated then they are inflated (need to maintain a minimum to keep them from pinching, normally at least 5psi).

Most commom install has two valves at back of car to inflate each side as needed. Otherwise you can get auto air systems fitted to automatically adjust the levels (similar to SLS in the Kakadu). Then you can also get attachments to use the air compressor to inflate tyres too.

Look at airbagman.com.au for info, videos and brochures.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Prerderp Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Prerderp]

Is it pretty easy to fit airbags with any suspension combo? Would I be able to fit them later on if I find the rear's too soft with load? How do they work? Does it run off the under bonnet compressor similar to diff lock?

My airbags have the same valves as a regular tyre valve to pump them up, just next to my tow bar (like brougham mentioned). I looked at automatic systems and they are very cool, but considering how much they cost and how infrequently I'm carrying a big enough load to need to pump them up, it wasn't worth the money. Usually I don't even bother pulling out the air hose for my compressor, as the thirty seconds it takes to pump them up with a bike pump is quicker than rolling my air hose back up!

You need to pull the springs out to fit them, so if you're planning on replacing springs, you might as well fit airbags at the same time - saves you doing the whole job twice.

[Bschotty Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bschotty]

Sounds like a winner! Means I can go softer coils in the rear.
Cheers!

- Ben