Removal of 150 bumper to fit Toyota towbar

[rwo Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close rwo]

Definatley no Chassis drilling with the factory tow bar

Thanks mate, looks like a genuine one for me then.

[boomer Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close boomer]

Did you know the hayman reese bar now goes right across to chassis rails and bolts in the middle as well. found out when i got it fitted a few days ago.. also need to adjust clearance between exhaust tip and towbar bolt heads. unless you like the clanging sound.

CQ Prado, the genuine bar comes with a replacement exhaust hanger. The original has to be cut off and the replacement bolted on in its place. It lowers the exhaust about 10mm. It is probably available if the clanging is a problem.
Thanks to all who responded to my request for advice. Job completed now - very happy.

[happys 150 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close happys 150]

Good one boomer, hope all went well.

[Juergen Braun Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Juergen Braun]

Hi All,

Newby here (first post). I've tradded in the Bemma and pulled the trigger on a 2012 Altitude. Picked up the Toyota Towbar kit today and have been through the instuctions and this forum in preperation to install myself.

While the process to remove the rear bumper is a little clearer after reading this thread, surely somone must have a copy of the workshop manual pages which details how to remove and then re-install the bumper. The bit that concerns me is the clips, which supposedly just let go as per "happys 150" post.

Anyway, my questions are:

1) How easy is it to re-install the bumper once towbar is fitted?
2) What's the best tool to cut the bumper with? (I'm planning on using my dremel)
3) How critical is it to use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts detailed on page 4 of the fitting instructions? (M12 bolts on vertical and horizontal crossbar, M8, M10 and M12 bolts on side arms, M8 bolt on fuel tank cover and M8 bolts on exhaust hanger)

Appreciate any feedback you guys can offer.

Great site, will be posting lot's more from here on in. Might even get some photo's of bumper removal to help out the next guy.

[boomer Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close boomer]

Hi All,

Newby here (first post). I've tradded in the Bemma and pulled the trigger on a 2012 Altitude. Picked up the Toyota Towbar kit today and have been through the instuctions and this forum in preperation to install myself.

While the process to remove the rear bumper is a little clearer after reading this thread, surely somone must have a copy of the workshop manual pages which details how to remove and then re-install the bumper. The bit that concerns me is the clips, which supposedly just let go as per "happys 150" post.

Anyway, my questions are:

1) How easy is it to re-install the bumper once towbar is fitted?
2) What's the best tool to cut the bumper with? (I'm planning on using my dremel)
3) How critical is it to use a torque wrench to tighten the bolts detailed on page 4 of the fitting instructions? (M12 bolts on vertical and horizontal crossbar, M8, M10 and M12 bolts on side arms, M8 bolt on fuel tank cover and M8 bolts on exhaust hanger)

Appreciate any feedback you guys can offer.

Great site, will be posting lot's more from here on in. Might even get some photo's of bumper removal to help out the next guy.

Hi Jeurgen,
Re the clips, after you undo the screws and clips in the wheel wells, start at the top. When the top corner is clear the rest just come off very easily. The connectors for the reversing system are below the taillights and when they are undone the bar cover just lifts clear. Refitting is a breeze. Sit it in position reconnect the sensors and push it into place. I think a torque wrench is important on any job from engine assembly, towbars fitting, right down to wheel nuts. If you don't use one then make sure those M12 bolts are "very tight" - that's a rough translation of 95Nm lol. Seriously though I was quoted $350 to fit the bar and harness. I bought a torque wrench and I've still got money to spare!!

[Juergen Braun Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Juergen Braun]

Anyone know how to remove the luggage anchors?

Not sure if you just lever up the plastic part to reveal a screw, don't want to damage anything.

[Juergen Braun Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Juergen Braun]

OK, got it sorted by lifting plastic up with screw driver to reveal 10mm bolts. Next step is how to remove the 3rd row seat covers, which has got me snookered. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

A workshop manual would really help at this point in time.

[Guest Close Guest]

Next step is how to remove the 3rd row seat covers, which has got me snookered. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

A workshop manual would really help at this point in time.

http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...l=1#post284153

[boomer Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close boomer]

OK, got it sorted by lifting plastic up with screw driver to reveal 10mm bolts. Next step is how to remove the 3rd row seat covers, which has got me snookered. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

A workshop manual would really help at this point in time.

Why not buy one Juergen? The amount you are saving by doing it yourself will cover a manual and a torque wrench and you'll still have enough for a soothing ale when you've finished. Is the bar installation finished?
The seat covers are held down by 5 plastic plugs. Lever them out with a trim removal tool or a long broad screwdriver. By the way I didn't remove any trim or seats to do the harness. Not hard to thread through the 2 holes after the grommets are removed. I passed a length of sturdy plastic covered electrical wire through the passage, taped the harness to it and with a bit of wiggling and help from above pushed it up through the passage.

[Juergen Braun Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Juergen Braun]

Hi All,

Successfully completed the towbar install today. It certainly is a mission to do. On a postive, everything snaps back togeather realtively quickly and you will be a lot more familiar with the backend of your vechile once done. It did take me about 9 hours, but I was taking my time being carefull not to damage anything, I mucked around for about 90 minutes trying to get the left and right hand side arms to be simetrical (this was impossible and I gave up in the end, one side is about 5mm higher on the crossbar than the other). I also spent an hour driving over to a friends place to borrow a torque wrench and then returning it, so actual time working would be closer to 7 hours. If I had to do it again, I think you could get it down to 4 hours. The hardest part is working out how to remove everything without the workshop manual to guide you.

A big thanks to this forum and those who replyied to the few queries I had.

[Slick1 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Slick1]

By the way I didn't remove any trim or seats to do the harness. Not hard to thread through the 2 holes after the grommets are removed.

Does anybody have any photos of the grommets. I've looked in the jack compartment and cant seem to see them.

There are 2 grommets. I assume one is accessed from the jack compartment and the other one from under the vehicle behind the left rear wheel arch somewhere. Is that correct?

[boomer Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close boomer]

Does anybody have any photos of the grommets. I've looked in the jack compartment and cant seem to see them.

There are 2 grommets. I assume one is accessed from the jack compartment and the other one from under the vehicle behing the left rear wheel arch somewhere. Is that correct?

Yes Slick1, one is accessed from the rear of the wheel arch and the other is hard to find in the jack compartment. Maybe a torch and mirror will help find it. It's on the floor of the compartment directly above the one on the wheel arch. You can thread a flexible piece of plastic either down from the top or up from the wheel arch then tape the harness and pull it through. It's a tight fit and is best done with one person below feeding it up and another above pulling it through. Takes a bit of wiggling but much easier than removing the seat and trim. Good luck. Worth the effort - it's a great tow vehicle!!! Just another thought from memory there are 2 grommets in the wheel arch, and I think I found the right one by comparing the size of the matching one on the harness.

[Slick1 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Slick1]

Thanks Boomer - useful information there. I'll take a closer look tomorrow.

[Slick1 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Slick1]

I found the grommets. Quite easy when you know what you're looking for and where to look. The mirror and torch were very helpful for initially locating the grommet in the jack compartment.

To anyone else doing this, I recommend removing the grommet behind the wheel arch first. There are 2 grommets down there side by side. The one to remove is the inboard grommet. As soon as you remove this one the jack compartment grommet is easily visible from underneath. I found the easiest way to remove it is to poke your fingers through and simply push it up from underneath.

With regard to the bumber bar removal and re-fit, have you guys found that it is easily handled by one man? Or do you recommend a second pair of hands?

[Guest Close Guest]

Always helpful to have a 2nd pair of hands to hold things and to fetch tools.