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150 Kakadu Issues with Headlight washers & sensors after TJM steel bar installation

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  • 150 Kakadu Issues with Headlight washers & sensors after TJM steel bar installation

    Hi everyone,

    Looking to get some advice on how to resolve the following issues

    2 months ago, I had a T3 TJM steel bar installed on my Kakadu. At the time, I asked the workshop whether they can cut the bumper rather than using “eyebrows” / infills, as I had read about quality issues with the eyebrows. Two issues have come up since the installation:

    1) The parking sensors are set off inconsistently, i.e. sometimes they work pretty much as they should, but more often than not the front right and sometimes one of the middle sensors plays up and gives an alarm when it shouldn’t. Two attempts by the workshop to fix this (by turning the angle of the sensors, I was told) have not been successful. Any ideas?

    2) After 2 days of off-road driving, the right headlight washer began to protrude, their casing has some contact with the bar. Also, the edge of the bumper cut is pushing against the back of the rubber buffer positioned at the base of the alloy tube, which may have an effect on the washers too?

    Any opinions and suggestions on how best to resolve this?







    Sydneydude
    Member
    Last edited by Sydneydude; 26-08-2013, 12:15 AM.
    2010 Kakadu. TJM T13 bar, TJM 9500lb winch, FJ Cruiser 17" rims with 265/70R17 Coopers S/T maxx, 40mm lift, Dobinson's C59-726, Bilstein shocks, Airtek snorkel, Recovery points, Brown Davies bash plates, TG150 transfer case guard. Rhino Pioneer Platform SuperPeg Rear Awning. Drifta Drawer System, Cargobarrier. Optima dual battery. GME UHF, Sandgrabbas.. ARB 47l fridge freezer.

  • #2




    2010 Kakadu. TJM T13 bar, TJM 9500lb winch, FJ Cruiser 17" rims with 265/70R17 Coopers S/T maxx, 40mm lift, Dobinson's C59-726, Bilstein shocks, Airtek snorkel, Recovery points, Brown Davies bash plates, TG150 transfer case guard. Rhino Pioneer Platform SuperPeg Rear Awning. Drifta Drawer System, Cargobarrier. Optima dual battery. GME UHF, Sandgrabbas.. ARB 47l fridge freezer.

    Comment


    • #3
      Hey man, I install sensors on a pretty regular basis, one of the things that happen quite a bit with bullbars and steel bumpers is that there is no give in bar. This translates to the sensor being too tight in the hole (puns abound on this statement) I personally take to the holes with a round file and just keep filing each one until it stops giving false positives.

      Best way to confirm if this is the issue is to remove the sensor (it just prises out or push from behind) and let it rest on the edge of the hole. It should work perfectly now. Put it back in the hole... and off she goes!

      I come across this problem perhaps 1 out of 10 bull/steel bar. It's common.

      Comment


      • #4
        Is the inner guard hard up against the washers when they are retracted? The guard gets cut and pulled towards the bar so perhaps you need to give it some clearance. Another thought is the infill or panel cut is very floppy because it is only supported at the top in a few places, if the extra bits hanging off mean they bounce around you might want to try wedging some foam in between the bar and panel and see if that helps. I don't have washers but have the T3 and panel cut and the panel is very floppy. Doesn't cause me any issues though.
        My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

        Comment


        • #5
          Looks as though when the body is flexing and jumping around a bit the washer body coming in contact with the top of the bullbar pushing up against the base of the washer ?? The bar looks awfully close to the washer in the picture ?? Also why is there no clip on the drivers side (on one side of the washer) compared to the passengers side where you have two black clips ?? The sensors wouldn't have a clue lol.... Cheers Steve
          Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet

          Comment


          • #6
            Looking again at the pics did they have to move the washers up a bit (eg cut plastic bar and reposition washers ??) Also either way I reckon they have broken the clip, probably had to remove the plastic bar to cut and shape which would have ment they had to remove washer jets ???...... Cheers Steve
            Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by RanJ View Post
              Hey man, I install sensors on a pretty regular basis, one of the things that happen quite a bit with bullbars and steel bumpers is that there is no give in bar. This translates to the sensor being too tight in the hole (puns abound on this statement) I personally take to the holes with a round file and just keep filing each one until it stops giving false positives.

              Best way to confirm if this is the issue is to remove the sensor (it just prises out or push from behind) and let it rest on the edge of the hole. It should work perfectly now. Put it back in the hole... and off she goes!

              I come across this problem perhaps 1 out of 10 bull/steel bar. It's common.
              Thanks for that one. This explanation actually makes a lot of sense, can't wait to test it out. Will report when checked
              2010 Kakadu. TJM T13 bar, TJM 9500lb winch, FJ Cruiser 17" rims with 265/70R17 Coopers S/T maxx, 40mm lift, Dobinson's C59-726, Bilstein shocks, Airtek snorkel, Recovery points, Brown Davies bash plates, TG150 transfer case guard. Rhino Pioneer Platform SuperPeg Rear Awning. Drifta Drawer System, Cargobarrier. Optima dual battery. GME UHF, Sandgrabbas.. ARB 47l fridge freezer.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by mjrandom View Post
                Is the inner guard hard up against the washers when they are retracted? The guard gets cut and pulled towards the bar so perhaps you need to give it some clearance. Another thought is the infill or panel cut is very floppy because it is only supported at the top in a few places, if the extra bits hanging off mean they bounce around you might want to try wedging some foam in between the bar and panel and see if that helps. I don't have washers but have the T3 and panel cut and the panel is very floppy. Doesn't cause me any issues though.
                I reckon, that grinding 5 mm off the rear of the bar for more clearance will help. At this point I want to stay clear of the infills as long a possible.
                I had a look at your bumper cut, looks great.
                2010 Kakadu. TJM T13 bar, TJM 9500lb winch, FJ Cruiser 17" rims with 265/70R17 Coopers S/T maxx, 40mm lift, Dobinson's C59-726, Bilstein shocks, Airtek snorkel, Recovery points, Brown Davies bash plates, TG150 transfer case guard. Rhino Pioneer Platform SuperPeg Rear Awning. Drifta Drawer System, Cargobarrier. Optima dual battery. GME UHF, Sandgrabbas.. ARB 47l fridge freezer.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Steve M View Post
                  Looking again at the pics did they have to move the washers up a bit (eg cut plastic bar and reposition washers ??)
                  I seem to recall this being the case Steve as the washer jets normally live in the part of the bar that gets cut off. Here's a pic of mine that uses the infills as a comparison :-



                  It's a T13 bar rather than a T3 but I'm pretty sure the main channel design and positioning is the same. My washer jets don't contact any part of the bar. Also note the positioning of the parking sensors, mine don't sit below the indicators.
                  Last edited by fido666; 26-08-2013, 10:23 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Steve M View Post
                    Looks as though when the body is flexing and jumping around a bit the washer body coming in contact with the top of the bullbar pushing up against the base of the washer ?? The bar looks awfully close to the washer in the picture ?? Also why is there no clip on the drivers side (on one side of the washer) compared to the passengers side where you have two black clips ?? The sensors wouldn't have a clue lol.... Cheers Steve
                    Steve, yes the bar is extremely close to the base of the washer, when the body moves against the bar I think that's what's puts an extra strain on the washers.
                    2010 Kakadu. TJM T13 bar, TJM 9500lb winch, FJ Cruiser 17" rims with 265/70R17 Coopers S/T maxx, 40mm lift, Dobinson's C59-726, Bilstein shocks, Airtek snorkel, Recovery points, Brown Davies bash plates, TG150 transfer case guard. Rhino Pioneer Platform SuperPeg Rear Awning. Drifta Drawer System, Cargobarrier. Optima dual battery. GME UHF, Sandgrabbas.. ARB 47l fridge freezer.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by fido666 View Post
                      I seem to recall this being the case Steve as the washer jets normally live in the part of the bar that gets cut off. Here's a pic of mine that uses the infills as a comparison :-



                      It's a T13 bar rather than a T3 but I'm pretty sure the main channel design and positioning is the same. My washer jets don't contact any part of the bar. Also note the positioning of the parking sensors, mine don't sit below the indicators.
                      The position of the sensors in your bar are definitely better in terms of protection against the elements, as mine sit under the square cut-outs ready for the rain to come in. I'm not sure though if it's important not to be directly exposed to rain. I hope that applying RamJ advice will help fix the issue.

                      Thanks for the hint that the washers move higher when infills are used. Like myself, the workshop was not aware of that either and just did the bumper cut, now it's time to work it out.
                      2010 Kakadu. TJM T13 bar, TJM 9500lb winch, FJ Cruiser 17" rims with 265/70R17 Coopers S/T maxx, 40mm lift, Dobinson's C59-726, Bilstein shocks, Airtek snorkel, Recovery points, Brown Davies bash plates, TG150 transfer case guard. Rhino Pioneer Platform SuperPeg Rear Awning. Drifta Drawer System, Cargobarrier. Optima dual battery. GME UHF, Sandgrabbas.. ARB 47l fridge freezer.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Sydneydude View Post
                        The position of the sensors in your bar are definitely better in terms of protection against the elements, as mine sit under the square cut-outs ready for the rain to come in. I'm not sure though if it's important not to be directly exposed to rain. I hope that applying RamJ advice will help fix the issue.

                        Thanks for the hint that the washers move higher when infills are used. Like myself, the workshop was not aware of that either and just did the bumper cut, now it's time to work it out.
                        Had a look again at the position of the washers in several pictures today, not sure whether the washers sit higher in the infills compared to the bumper. Still figuring what makes the difference for the washers. I'm inclined to believe that with infills the bar sticks out a bit more with the infill being completely behind the bar unlike the cut bumper?Can someone comment if the bar has slotted holes for minor adjustments?
                        2010 Kakadu. TJM T13 bar, TJM 9500lb winch, FJ Cruiser 17" rims with 265/70R17 Coopers S/T maxx, 40mm lift, Dobinson's C59-726, Bilstein shocks, Airtek snorkel, Recovery points, Brown Davies bash plates, TG150 transfer case guard. Rhino Pioneer Platform SuperPeg Rear Awning. Drifta Drawer System, Cargobarrier. Optima dual battery. GME UHF, Sandgrabbas.. ARB 47l fridge freezer.

                        Comment

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