UHF AERIALS

[Antiquesman Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Antiquesman]

I have just bought a GME TX 3440 from ebay. I have tried to get info on what aerial to buy from several online dealers as well as a well as a store in Melb. They all have different opinions, so I thought I would throw it to the forum to see what aerials you guys are using and why?
I note there are thin ones, thick ones, tall ones, short ones, low db and high db. Surely these variables will all make a difference to performance, so I would like to find out how they affect performance.

[dereki Member Find all posts View Profile Close dereki]

Re: UHF AERIALS

Look here for a good description of antenna gain and what it means.

http://www.olbis.com.au/ap_template/subcat_antennas.asp

I have a GME AE4018K1 http://www.gme.net.au/products/antennas ... z/AE4018K1

* Barrel Spring - need this or when it gets caught on something it might break.
* Fibreglass Colinear instead of steel whip... when in motion thin steel whips can bend due to wind or wobble around, reducing efficiency.
* Ground Independent = Can be mounted anywhere on the vehicle
* Length 980 mm so it fits in undercover car parks that I use at the shop and work.
* It was quite cheap.

D

[Richoson Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Richoson]

Re: UHF AERIALS

Hi

If you are doing serious corrugated tracks, eg SA tracks, Cape York, steer clear of fibreglass aerials even with the spring base as you will see numerous times these snap off. We have used a stainless steel 6 db aerial for 10 years on these tracks still going strong and have as good reception in the outback as the "massive aerials".

Regards, Richo.

[dereki Member Find all posts View Profile Close dereki]

Re: UHF AERIALS

Hi

If you are doing serious corrugated tracks, eg SA tracks, Cape York, steer clear of fibreglass aerials even with the spring base as you will see numerous times these snap off. We have used a stainless steel 6 db aerial for 10 years on these tracks still going strong and have as good reception in the outback as the "massive aerials".

Regards, Richo.

Very good point. When I mentioned steel whips I thinking the really thin ones you see with the little bulbs on them to join the bits together. Another thing in favour of the good quality steel ones is the vibrations from older diesel motors don't worry them. Its the only option for my brothers Rodeo which shakes the stuff out of everything on the car Doesn't matter on a 150 of course. They have such a smooth motor.

D

[Schaffer Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close Schaffer]

Re: UHF AERIALS

Hi

If you are doing serious corrugated tracks, eg SA tracks, Cape York, steer clear of fibreglass aerials even with the spring base as you will see numerous times these snap off. We have used a stainless steel 6 db aerial for 10 years on these tracks still going strong and have as good reception in the outback as the "massive aerials".

Regards, Richo.

Very good point. When I mentioned steel whips I thinking the really thin ones you see with the little bulbs on them to join the bits together. Another thing in favour of the good quality steel ones is the vibrations from older diesel motors don't worry them. Its the only option for my brothers Rodeo which shakes the stuff out of everything on the car Doesn't matter on a 150 of course. They have such a smooth motor.

D

The metal can fatigue and snap just above the base in which case it is useless. All aerilas can become damaged by corrugations. What ever you go with it's always handly to have a second one that you can screw in. Dosn't need to be the same one but could be a cheap $20.00 1/4 wave aerial to get you through in case your main one dies. Also helps protect your UHF set in case you attempt to transmit with a brokjen aerial which will fry the set.

If you do have a steel 6bd (possibly the RFI one) then the steel replacement is about $30.00. The base is the expensive component.

[clifton Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close clifton]

Re: UHF AERIALS

I use a 6dB spring base RFI UHF base loaded unit with a metallic antenna and as Schaffer has rightly pointed out they get metal fatigue and snap off ( and disappear) at a point in way off the base unit securing set screw when on corrugated roads. I have rescued my little metal whip section by taping the last 10mm of the whip and the base nut unit in which the metal whip is seated with self amalgamating tape so when the whip snaps it just sags over and I rescue it at the first available opportunity. I then pick out the 10mm or so of whip left behind and reuse the whip antenna, albiet maybe a little detuned.