Originally posted by KarlCaudwell
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Is the 150 showing any signs of cracked inner guards
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Planning to do it myself. Actually I just saw someone elses DIY job and they just used M6 nuts and bolts so perhaps I wont need the nut caps/grommets. Could be an option as well. Planning it as preventative as I plan to put a ARB bar, dual battery etc and touring in it. So a couple hundred dollars here would be worth it for peace of mind over 30k km trip.
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Mate I wouldn’t bother as a preventative. But if you really want to. The numbers ending in 42 (nut cap) and 65 (grommet) need 17 for each side or so and ending in 12 are bolts need 20 each side. But these numbers are rough as i took the list from somewhere else online then Toyota said something different then I don’t even know if the panel beater used them all or had enough.Originally posted by calorific View PostCan someone please help me out as I'm looking to do this as a preventative measure. I just need confirmation that the parts required are two plates (53731-60110 and 53732-60060), and 6 pieces of hardware (2x 90176-06042, 2x 90189-06065 and 2x 91671-A0612). That doesnt seem to be enough hardware to mount the two plates. This is for a 2010 Prado VX D4D. Thanks
Are you doing it yourself?
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Can someone please help me out as I'm looking to do this as a preventative measure. I just need confirmation that the parts required are two plates (53731-60110 and 53732-60060), and 6 pieces of hardware (2x 90176-06042, 2x 90189-06065 and 2x 91671-A0612). That doesnt seem to be enough hardware to mount the two plates. This is for a 2010 Prado VX D4D. Thanks
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Thanks KarlOriginally posted by KarlCaudwell View PostI there are no instructions. I just took it a local panel beater and they worked it out. A mate of mine didn’t weld it and just chemweld and bolted it in himself.
Sounds like it is not too hard
Much appreciated
Klaus
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I there are no instructions. I just took it a local panel beater and they worked it out. A mate of mine didn’t weld it and just chemweld and bolted it in himself.
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I have the same problem of cracking in our 2012 Kakadu
I have sourced the patches and bolts but do not have any instructions. Or is there an experienced panel beater (near Canberra/Sydney) that can fit them?
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The 150 has redesigned guards sign 2014, so yours would have the new design. How did you move the aircon pipe?Originally posted by Graydog View PostDo you think they have strengthened the guards in the 2.8? I have just installed second battery in the new car.
Planning to tie it to sidewall and front from battery strap.
There were no bolt holes for a battery tray so decided to install a few rivet nuts. Now that air con is out of the way was able to install an even larger battery than crank battery. It weighed in about 19 kg.
Sold the 2011 3.0 with cracks on both sides.
Had observed them over the last year and they did not seem to get any worse.
I am not sure that once they are cracked there is any further damage that can happen.
Any thoughts on the consequences of not bothering to repair them?
Leaving the cracks they will get progressively bigger.
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Do you think they have strengthened the guards in the 2.8? I have just installed second battery in the new car.
Planning to tie it to sidewall and front from battery strap.
There were no bolt holes for a battery tray so decided to install a few rivet nuts. Now that air con is out of the way was able to install an even larger battery than crank battery. It weighed in about 19 kg.
Sold the 2011 3.0 with cracks on both sides.
Had observed them over the last year and they did not seem to get any worse.
I am not sure that once they are cracked there is any further damage that can happen.
Any thoughts on the consequences of not bothering to repair them?
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Cheers mate, much appreciated. I have ordered one side and bolts, etc from amayama. The other side was out of stock, so trying to track down within Au.
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Passenger side i didi t remove anything, just a squeeze under the fuse box. On the drivers side i pulled the air cleaner box out. Just make sure you buy short bolts. Only need to be 2-3mm longer than the nut.
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Cheers for the info leethal, I am also planning on fitting the patch kit as preventative maintenance (i.e. guards are not cracked yet). How much "stuff" (i.e. Battery, fuse box, airbox, etc) needs to be stripped from the inner guards to access the top of the bolts?Originally posted by leethal1 View Postis your guard cracked? if not it's easy, just need to drill a few holes and bolt in. if it is I would sit it in and get the crack repaired, do both sides since they are available.
I have placed an order request for the patch kit through amayama, so will order when they send me the final price.
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is your guard cracked? if not it's easy, just need to drill a few holes and bolt in. if it is I would sit it in and get the crack repaired, do both sides since they are available.Originally posted by rackxp View PostHey Guys,
Is the patch kit easy to install or do I need to go to a panel beater to have it fitted?
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Hey Guys,
Is the patch kit easy to install or do I need to go to a panel beater to have it fitted?
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I feel your pain. Good luck!Originally posted by KarlCaudwell View PostGot sick of calling dealerships so went into Stewart Toyota and got the patch and bits n pieces ordered and should arrive Tuesday (3 days). I forget exact price but it was about $250...... then to find a panel beater to fit the bloody thing.
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Got sick of calling dealerships so went into Stewart Toyota and got the patch and bits n pieces ordered and should arrive Tuesday (3 days). I forget exact price but it was about $250...... then to find a panel beater to fit the bloody thing.
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