Recovery Points - 150

[Pablo150 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Pablo150]

G'day Guy's.
First posting so I guess this will be a trial & error, hope it all comes together.
So I wanted to have a solid recovery point on the front of the vehicle and clearly one cant rely too much on the bullbar due to the front end construction (crumple zone etc). I got some very handy tips from the forum how to go about installing the Outback Ideas points for which I'm thankful. I wanted to also share my experience and a couple of tips that could help the next person.

STEP 1
Wheel on full lock & remove front skirts (ARB bullbar)
STEP 2
This will allow you to easily assess the two bolts
Remove both bolts. (yes, this will cause the nut & plate to drop inside the chassis rail)
STEP 3
I have read that some mention not to bother removing it as the plate is too think to bend. And yes I would agree, however I don't like the idea of the plate remaining inside the chassis.
So, this is my tip. Get yourself a flexible magnetic tip thingy from Bunnings. Insert inside the chassis and drag the plate to the opening.
STEP 4
Grab yourself a wire coat hanger & 'fish' the plate up towards the opening. Once insight, using your long nose pliers, hold the plate in position, then push the wire through to the hole on the opposite side of the chassis. This will keep the plate in position.
Now, using a cable tie, thread it through the eye of the nut and partially zip it up.
STEP 5
Using some string or fishing line, tie it to the looped cable tie. This concept it our safe guard in case we drop the plate in the next step.
STEP 6
Using TWO long nose pliers inch along the plate until you come to the end. (hence the sting to pull back if you drop it)
STEP 7
Once you come to the end of the plate you will notice that there are some notches that allow you to bend the end & to remove the plate from the chassis rail.Once this has been done the rest is fairly easy. Note, the bolts supplied are still too big for the hole in the chassis & will be required to opened up ever so slightly.

(I have just found upload limit for JPEGs, doh!). I do have lots of other photos to share but these are the most important.
Good luck.

[A10 Member Find all posts View Profile Close A10]

I agree that it is better to remove the plates if possible.

A couple more photos showing steps 6 and 7 would be interesting for when I get round to getting some recovery points soon.

Thanks.

[Pablo150 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Pablo150]

Hey A10, some more pic's to help.

[A10 Member Find all posts View Profile Close A10]

Thanks Pablo150.

[berniebgf Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close berniebgf]

Bringing up on old thread here......

I have the TJM Bull Bar Type 13, on my bar the piece that slides inside the chassis is a large metal strip that is threaded.
Could the Outback idea's recovery point fit with the existing holes and bolts? Or would I have to drill out and put supplied bolts in like with the ARB kit? and would they be long enough with the Bull back reinforcing running along the chassis as well?

Bernie

[wooley Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close wooley]

On another note... are other peoples bull bar mounts, which bolt to this chassis flush with the chassis? and hard up against the chassis?

My mounting plates are not flush and I can see thread between the plate and chassis. ARB says this is fine which I really don't think it is.

This is the reason I have no mounted my points... I'm scared of what will happen when I undo those bolts...

[CQ_Prado Member Find all posts View Profile Close CQ_Prado]

I'll probably get bashed for this...

Use the the 2 loops provided with equaliser strap. They go right through that box section and welded both sides.. Heck I have even used 1 of the loops but be sure with using both of them.

Anyone else use the 2 tow loops together via equaliser strap? Or lots do but don't want to admit it.

[REV Find all posts View Profile Close REV]

The 2 existing loops in the 150 are a much stronger design than the 120 has.

While I prefer to use the Outback Idea points, I do know of the two original points being used with an equalizer strap.

[Wazza2 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wazza2]

Bernie- i have the t13 & outback ideas recovery points. I didn't fit them though and am not going back to where they were fitted to ask questions about the install. Bad vibes there. Can i take a pic or pop 1 bolt out to answer your question? Not really sure how to tell the difference.

[downunder Find all posts View Profile Close downunder]

Wazza2,


Can you post a photo of where and how you installed the recovery points.

[Yota Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Yota]

I'll probably get bashed for this...

Use the the 2 loops provided with equaliser strap. They go right through that box section and welded both sides.. Heck I have even used 1 of the loops but be sure with using both of them.

Anyone else use the 2 tow loops together via equaliser strap? Or lots do but don't want to admit it.

I only intend on using these loops, they are definently stronger tham just a tiedown point. I can not see how the outback ideas points could be stronger than these loops.

[Wazza2 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wazza2]

Does that help?

[A10 Member Find all posts View Profile Close A10]

G'day Guy's.
First posting so I guess this will be a trial & error, hope it all comes together.
So I wanted to have a solid recovery point on the front of the vehicle and clearly one cant rely too much on the bullbar due to the front end construction (crumple zone etc). I got some very handy tips from the forum how to go about installing the Outback Ideas points for which I'm thankful. I wanted to also share my experience and a couple of tips that could help the next person.

STEP 1
Wheel on full lock & remove front skirts (ARB bullbar)
STEP 2
This will allow you to easily assess the two bolts
Remove both bolts. (yes, this will cause the nut & plate to drop inside the chassis rail)
STEP 3
I have read that some mention not to bother removing it as the plate is too think to bend. And yes I would agree, however I don't like the idea of the plate remaining inside the chassis.
So, this is my tip. Get yourself a flexible magnetic tip thingy from Bunnings. Insert inside the chassis and drag the plate to the opening.
STEP 4
Grab yourself a wire coat hanger & 'fish' the plate up towards the opening. Once insight, using your long nose pliers, hold the plate in position, then push the wire through to the hole on the opposite side of the chassis. This will keep the plate in position.
Now, using a cable tie, thread it through the eye of the nut and partially zip it up.
STEP 5
Using some string or fishing line, tie it to the looped cable tie. This concept it our safe guard in case we drop the plate in the next step.
STEP 6
Using TWO long nose pliers inch along the plate until you come to the end. (hence the sting to pull back if you drop it)
STEP 7
Once you come to the end of the plate you will notice that there are some notches that allow you to bend the end & to remove the plate from the chassis rail.Once this has been done the rest is fairly easy. Note, the bolts supplied are still too big for the hole in the chassis & will be required to opened up ever so slightly.

Good luck.

Fitted mine today. Removing the old nut and plate was very easy as described by Pablo150.

Hardest part was fitting the top bolt. The problem wasn't that the holes were too small but that the holes didn't line up due to the fitting of the bull bar. Anyway - all good now and recovery points fitted.

[berniebgf Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close berniebgf]

Wazza,

Looks like they have left one bolt out of the TJM mounting bracket, looks as though you could not put it back in as Recovery point bracket covers it (just). Looks fairly thick...

Bernie.

[barajak Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close barajak]

I only intend on using these loops, they are definently stronger tham just a tiedown point. I can not see how the outback ideas points could be stronger than these loops.

Unless you are using a high strength chain your loop will be the weak link at the point that your snatch strap is attached. You would be better off attaching the snatch strap and your loop (say a tree protector) to one anchor point and the other end of the loop to the other. This would be a lot safer than a snatch strap with a shackle attached recoiling through a back window. I don't know if there is support at the end of the rail the tie down/recovery point is attached to from new but this is stiffened up considerably with the bull bar mounting plate as per the pic in this thread. It would not be as strong as the red plate but I would not worry about snatching you using the tie down point.