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Removing rear rotors HELP!

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Anth120playdo View Post
    No, if its free like he said, it's not rusted, it won't want a hit.
    Find the adjuster, back it off, then it w ill have to slide off, there's nothing else stopping it.
    If you hit other than to break the rust, you might bust the clips, wreck the shoes etc
    Originally posted by Jasen
    I'm just looking at Toyota Tech and found this. Anyone know where this is I cant find it?

    "Turn the shoe adjuster until the disc turns freely, and then remove the disc.
    Text in Illustration"
    Take out the rubber grommet.
    Get a torch.
    It's at the bottom just like the picture.
    You should be able to see the thread getting longer or shorter on the adjuster.
    Turn it till its short that u can't see thread, it should fall off.
    Too easy!

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    • #17
      There is no grommet, just get the inspection hole in the rotor and hub to bottom dead centre and get a flat bladed screw driver through the hole and adjust it, pretty easy and straight forward. Spin the rotor as you adjust it, if it gets tighter you are going the wrong way.

      Cheers Andrew
      [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

      [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

      [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


      [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Jasen
        Thanks AJ.

        I have not idea what I was thinking, I was under the car looking at the back and not the front of the rotor.

        What a retard!

        I will wip the wheel back off tomorrow and have another go.
        refer to own avatar. hahahaha. i allways get caught out on small things like this.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Jasen

          What a retard!
          You said that not me

          Cheers Andrew
          [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

          [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

          [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


          [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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          • #20
            Jasen don't force the rotors, you can stretch the springs and break the clips that hold the shoes in. I had it done to mine by a ham fisted gorilla. Cost me about $300 in parts and the gorillas boss refused to take responsibility. Back off the brakes until the rotors and rust will come free.
            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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            • #21
              The 120 the handbrake is cable all the way, it runs on the outside of the chassis and goes between the shock and the tyre into the lower part of the backing plate. You can't miss it really.

              Cheers Andrew
              [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

              [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

              [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


              [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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              • #22
                Disconnecting the cable isn't enough, you NEED to back off the adjuster until the shoes are well clear of the drums inside the discs. And the rust. And the sand.
                My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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                • #23
                  Hi Guys
                  Thanks to Jason for the post and Andrew for the advice, my rear rotors have quite a lip and will need to be replaced next time I replace pads. This thread has saved me the time and agro involved in not backing off the hand brake adjustment first.
                  Cheers
                  Mark
                  Mark
                  150 Series GXL White T/D auto

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