Brake Fluid Drain

[P W Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close P W]

Folk, Does any one know what the term " Drain Brake fluid and FIT REFILLER" means. Specifically the Fit Refiller bit. Suppose to be part of my next service.Thanks Phil

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Folk, Does any one know what the term " Drain Brake fluid and FIT REFILLER" means. Specifically the Fit Refiller bit. Suppose to be part of my next service.Thanks Phil

Simple terms: brake fluid change.

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Thanks ####. Just never heard that saying before.
Phil

[brogers Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close brogers]

Folk, Does any one know what the term " Drain Brake fluid and FIT REFILLER" means. Specifically the Fit Refiller bit. Suppose to be part of my next service.Thanks Phil

What's the context of the statement ...is is it in a service manual or a repair book or something?

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

In the later models book every 40,000k.

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Refiller might mean funnel. Maybe the meaning was lost in translation.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Refiller might mean funnel. Maybe the meaning was lost in translation.

The talented man you are, I think you will come up with the part number or sst in no time ?

I just keep changing b/fluid the way I have done it for 24 years. They may have a new high tech way.
I'm getting a bit okdschool now, finished my time in 1996.

Anyone changing brake fluid in the 150's remember to leave the key turned on.
Gravity bleed is still the best way. Time consuming, but best.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Some general info.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic, if I remembered the right word?
That means it absorbs water. So slowly over time it looses its boiling point.
New fluid is between 260-300 degrees boiling point.
Water is 100.
So slowly over time it reduces.
Most manufacturers maintenance is every 2 years.
Toyota is every 40,000k.
It's not a preventative maintenance issue like changing lubricating oil.
It's to keep your brakes working effectively, particularly when hot.
So if you tow & brake a lot on hills, this is where it's important for you.
Brake fade, google it.

Cheers,

####.

[brogers Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close brogers]

The talented man you are, I think you will come up with the part number or sst in no time ?

I just keep changing b/fluid the way I have done it for 24 years. They may have a new high tech way.
I'm getting a bit oldschool now, finished my time in 1996.

Anyone changing brake fluid in the 150's remember to leave the key turned on.
Gravity bleed is still the best way. Time consuming, but best.

Just some comments..

? Its been a couple of years since I bled the brakes on a Prado, but there is a process and a sequence....and I think, from memory, with the key left in the "on" position, when you press the brake pedal the brake assist mechanism actually pumps the fluid....so you don't need to pump the brake pedal....so yes, leave the key on, but I wouldn't think it was strictly "gravity bleeding" then, because the brake assist pumps actually helps you...and from memory, as with other cars, you start bleeding the brakes at the furthermost wheel (left rear) and eventually finish bleeding at the closest wheel (Front right) to the master cylinder...is that right?

By "gravity" bleeding I guess you mean not using an externally applied pneumatic pressured brake bleeding device onto the master cylinder (I've never actually used a pneumatic brake bleeder myself) ...and yes indeed, I wouldn't use such a device on the Prado. ...and (as a reminder for other readers) ...use a clean syringe type contraption to withdraw or siphon as much old brake fluid from the master cylinder as possible and refilling the master cylinder with new, clean fluid, before bleeding the brakes, so you don't drag old fluid (and potential contaminants) through the system...

[Pugaree Member Find all posts View Profile Close Pugaree]

Just some comments..

? Its been a couple of years since I bled the brakes on a Prado, but there is a process and a sequence....and I think, from memory, with the key left in the "on" position, when you press the brake pedal the brake assist mechanism actually pumps the fluid....so you don't need to pump the brake pedal....so yes, leave the key on, but I wouldn't think it was strictly "gravity bleeding" then, because the brake assist pumps actually helps you...and from memory, as with other cars, you start bleeding the brakes at the furthermost wheel (left rear) and eventually finish bleeding at the closest wheel (Front right) to the master cylinder...is that right?

By "gravity" bleeding I guess you mean not using an externally applied pneumatic pressured brake bleeding device onto the master cylinder (I've never actually used a pneumatic brake bleeder myself) ...and yes indeed, I wouldn't use such a device on the Prado. ...and (as a reminder for other readers) ...use a clean syringe type contraption to withdraw or siphon as much old brake fluid from the master cylinder as possible and refilling the master cylinder with new, clean fluid, before bleeding the brakes, so you don't drag old fluid (and potential contaminants) through the system...

Hi Brogers, Just wondering why you wouldn't recommend a pneumatic brake bleeder?

I bought one a few weeks ago and was about to have a crack at it myself.

[brogers Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close brogers]

Hi Brogers, Just wondering why you wouldn't recommend a pneumatic brake bleeder?

I bought one a few weeks ago and was about to have a crack at it myself.

1. I guess primarily because I'm not experienced with the use of those devices myself, but..

2. ..also because i'm not bleeding brakes regularly every week, so I recon its not worth getting a bit of extra gear when its not that bad bleeding the brakes normally anyway.

3...but finally, on the prado at least, if you leave the ignition turned on, you just need some brake peddle pressure (not to the floor) and the brake assist pump activates and the brake system bleeds fairly quickly anyway, you sill have to undo each bleed nipple in turn and I'm not sure if pressurizing the master cylinder really makes it much faster or easier on the Prado.

I do know the hydraulic brake system on some other makes and models of cars can be quite time consuming to bleed, and I have heard that a pneumatic brake bleeder can be very helpful in those instances, but from my experience that's not the case with the 150 Prado.

I am very happy to be corrected folks, I'm certainly not a brake expert, but the experts who have helped me and taught me to perform general maintenance on the 150 Prado don't use a pneumatically assisted brake bleeding device either, so I am more than happy to not use one... given that I really only need to bleed my brakes once per year on the Prado.

I also do general servicing on my adult children's cars, (toyota camry' s and a Toyota Corollas) and even then I find I really don't need anything but a big syringe (to extract as much old brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder), a helper (to activate the brake pedal) , a block of wood (so the helper doesn't press the brake pedal all the way top the floor), a small ring spanner for the bleed nipple, and some clear plastic tubing and a clear bottle ...and a few new bottles of the correct brake fluid.....so that's why I personally wouldn't recommend a pneumatic brake bleeder....but please don't take my opinion, its always best to double check, I would seek some expert advice from a brake specialist before using one just in case, but I've found it just isnt needed.

I hope that explanation helps.

[Pugaree Member Find all posts View Profile Close Pugaree]

1. I guess primarily because I'm not experienced with the use of those devices myself, but..

2. ..also because i'm not bleeding brakes regularly every week, so I recon its not worth getting a bit of extra gear when its not that bad bleeding the brakes normally anyway.

3...but finally, on the prado at least, if you leave the ignition turned on, you just need some brake peddle pressure (not to the floor) and the brake assist pump activates and the brake system bleeds fairly quickly anyway, you sill have to undo each bleed nipple in turn and I'm not sure if pressurizing the master cylinder really makes it much faster or easier on the Prado.

I do know the hydraulic brake system on some other makes and models of cars can be quite time consuming to bleed, and I have heard that a pneumatic brake bleeder can be very helpful in those instances, but from my experience that's not the case with the 150 Prado.

I am very happy to be corrected folks, I'm certainly not a brake expert, but the experts who have helped me and taught me to perform general maintenance on the 150 Prado don't use a pneumatically assisted brake bleeding device either, so I am more than happy to not use one... given that I really only need to bleed my brakes once per year on the Prado.

I also do general servicing on my adult children's cars, (toyota camry' s and a Toyota Corollas) and even then I find I really don't need anything but a big syringe (to extract as much old brake fluid as possible from the master cylinder), a helper (to activate the brake pedal) , a block of wood (so the helper doesn't press the brake pedal all the way top the floor), a small ring spanner for the bleed nipple, and some clear plastic tubing and a clear bottle ...and a few new bottles of the correct brake fluid.....so that's why I personally wouldn't recommend a pneumatic brake bleeder....but please don't take my opinion, its always best to double check, I would seek some expert advice from a brake specialist before using one just in case, but I've found it just isnt needed.

I hope that explanation helps.

Thanks for that. I'll take your advice and talk to an expert. I have used vacuum bleeders before but they were hand pumped and I got sick of that idea. Like you, I do all the maintenance on our cars, 5 of them and half a dozen mates too. Plus I'm addicted to buying tools.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Just some comments..

? Its been a couple of years since I bled the brakes on a Prado, but there is a process and a sequence....and I think, from memory, with the key left in the "on" position, when you press the brake pedal the brake assist mechanism actually pumps the fluid....so you don't need to pump the brake pedal....so yes, leave the key on, but I wouldn't think it was strictly "gravity bleeding" then, because the brake assist pumps actually helps you...and from memory, as with other cars, you start bleeding the brakes at the furthermost wheel (left rear) and eventually finish bleeding at the closest wheel (Front right) to the master cylinder...is that right?

By "gravity" bleeding I guess you mean not using an externally applied pneumatic pressured brake bleeding device onto the master cylinder (I've never actually used a pneumatic brake bleeder myself) ...and yes indeed, I wouldn't use such a device on the Prado. ...and (as a reminder for other readers) ...use a clean syringe type contraption to withdraw or siphon as much old brake fluid from the master cylinder as possible and refilling the master cylinder with new, clean fluid, before bleeding the brakes, so you don't drag old fluid (and potential contaminants) through the system...

I'm not a brake specialist anymore :-)
I usually don't pump pedals to bleed brakes, I gravity bleed.

Yeah that's what we were all taught at trade school, but like many things, the smarties find out the truth & better ways to do things. I open all 4. Change diff oils etc while brake fluid does itself. Close them up as they come clean with fresh fluid. Many variables, but with a full system it's good. If you started from scratch with a new master cyl, or ran out of fluid the game may change.

***When it comes to brakes, it a matter of life or death, so if your unsure, take it to someone who is sure.

[brogers Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close brogers]

I'm not a brake specialist anymore
I usually don't pump pedals to bleed brakes, I gravity bleed.

Yeah that's what we were all taught at trade school, but like many things, the smarties find out the truth & better ways to do things. I open all 4. Change diff oils etc while brake fluid does itself. Close them up as they come clean with fresh fluid. Many variables, but with a full system it's good. If you started from scratch with a new master cyl, or ran out of fluid the game may change.

***When it comes to brakes, it a matter of life or death, so if your unsure, take it to someone who is sure.

****************
Ah ha, excellent, thanks for the explanation ####.
... I'll probably still continue to just bleed the brakes one caliper at a time, with a bit of carefully applied Brake pedal force on each, one at a time, starting at the furthest wheel and working back towards the front right wheel in order...one at a time...but now I understand what is meant by gravity bleeding...thanks.

[P W Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close P W]

Hi amts,
Yeah, I figured it might be a "lost in translation thing".
And brogers,
You are correct, It is what the service manual says

Phil