Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Parking brake shoe hold down spring

Collapse
X
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Parking brake shoe hold down spring

    I recently needed to put my spare tyre to use as my rear passenger side tyre had a side puncture and was leaking air despite the repair. Long story short, I managed to swap the tyre but also ended up breaking one of the studs by overtightening one of the wheel nuts. I then tried to replace it myself and managed to get as far as removing the rotor but didnít know where to from there. When I was trying to remove the rotor, I somehow managed to undo the spring that holds down the parking brake shoe. I got the stud replaced by the local dealership but they want me to come back for replacing the spring and charge me $200 for it. I was looking at doing it myself and found the link I am including in this post which explains the process quite well but I have the following questions:
    1. Can the spring be replaced by just taking the rotor off?
    2. Do the parking shoe springs at the bottom or top need to come off for installing the hold down?
    3. Where does the pin that holds the spring need to be inserted from? How?

    Apologies if this has been covered in detail elsewhere but I could not find it and hence am posting this.

    Link for detailed process : https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/8...tructions.html

  • #2
    https://youtu.be/Ydvf1gAmEZ0
    Watch from 2min mark
    If you have experienced D4D engine failure, please complete this survey ​http://goo.gl/forms/bpJSYjq0Zx
    My Rig Build up

    sigpic

    Comment


    • #3
      Also, on the 150 (and 120) there is an adjuster at the bottom of the assembly that needs to be loosened off to make the rotor removal easier.

      Watch from about 50 seconds in on this video - its for a landcruiser, but very similar setup....

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8xLAsGr5yA
      Prado 150 V6 2010 Kakadu, Factory towbar, GME TX3420, P3 Brake Controller, ABR Battery tray, D34 Optima battery (Drivers side), Fullriver AGM 100Ah, Rear Anderson plug, Rear internal power outlets, Baintech rear battery monitor, Kaymar Wheel on Door bracket, GME UHF Antenna, Sand Grabba mats

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by nelsonserrao View Post
        I recently needed to put my spare tyre to use as my rear passenger side tyre had a side puncture and was leaking air despite the repair. Long story short, I managed to swap the tyre but also ended up breaking one of the studs by overtightening one of the wheel nuts. I then tried to replace it myself and managed to get as far as removing the rotor but didnít know where to from there. When I was trying to remove the rotor, I somehow managed to undo the spring that holds down the parking brake shoe. I got the stud replaced by the local dealership but they want me to come back for replacing the spring and charge me $200 for it. I was looking at doing it myself and found the link I am including in this post which explains the process quite well but I have the following questions:
        1. Can the spring be replaced by just taking the rotor off?
        2. Do the parking shoe springs at the bottom or top need to come off for installing the hold down?
        3. Where does the pin that holds the spring need to be inserted from? How?

        Apologies if this has been covered in detail elsewhere but I could not find it and hence am posting this.

        Link for detailed process : https://www.toyotanation.com/forum/8...tructions.html
        I replaced the rear rotors and pads on my 90 series, but unfortunately the whole park brake assembly fell to bits on the passenger side. I spent two days trying to reassemble it and in the end gave up and called in a mobile mechanic. It ended up costing me around $400 as even he struggled to put it back together. It turns out the the dog leg pin was bent and had to be replaced (that's why it fell apart). Unfortunately the video in amts link goes from partially disassembled to completely reassembled and misses out a lot of detail in the middle. In the 90 series the pins come in from the rear, one is straight from memory, the other is dog legged as it fits around part of the backing plate. I managed to get the straight one in OK, but trying to fit the dog leg pin in place resulted in eveyrthing falling apart again numerous times, so I was back to square one. It turned out to be one job I'd wished I'd got my mechanic to do right from the start.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thank you for all the great advice and links. Fortunately, the straight pin in mine is what needs fixing. Parts (pin, spring, cup) arriving at the local dealership in a week. So will do all my homework before then. Just out of curiosity, can the brake shoes be as is to put the straight pin and spring in or the springs near the adjuster need to be undone to loosen the shoes? Rainman, what do you mean when you say pins come in from rear? Rear of what?

          Comment


          • #6
            Yeah this is a difficult job, no room to get the cap & spring on. I tried for ages & couldnít so took it to a brake place who fitted a new kit of springs & caps to both hubs. They only charged for the kit & 1hr labour so I guess they have a special tool or know the trick to do this. Very bad design as hole is too small & no room at all. Iíd leave this for the pros.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by nelsonserrao View Post
              Rainman, what do you mean when you say pins come in from rear? Rear of what?
              The backing plate on the brake assembly. You have to insert the pins from the rear of the plate and the spring and locking washer are installed from the front. Thinking about it again, I think the dog leg pin fits around the actual brake pad, not the backing plate, Trying to install this pin from the rear, manipulate it round the brake pad, fit the spring over it, then fit and turn the locking washer while trying to keep the whole assembly in position is a nightmare.

              Comment


              • #8
                The hand brake locked on while the car was in the garage. Anyway after a numner of attempts foward and back to no avail put it in reverse and hit the pedal.
                There was a bang and launched out of the garage.
                Found the left side was the culprit and tried to get the disk /drum off. Tried levering, shaking for some two hours with no result. Thought that I would have to circumsize the drum with an angle grinder. New plan was to drill a couple of holes in the front of the drum, push a screwdriver in and lever the offending shoe away . This worked a treat.
                The brake shoe adjuster wheel had fallen out and the pin with the elbow had been bent which I removed and bent it back to its original form.
                then the nightmare began trying to get it all together.
                Virtually impossible process. No room to fit the parts between the wheel hub and the brake shoes.
                Hours and hours with the help of a mate we gave up.
                so I could use my car we pulled the whole lot out.
                replaced the disk and caliper (with new pads which needed replacing) and there it is. Trying to work up the strength to have another go.
                if Toyota could have given a 22mm hole in the wheel hub the job of replacing the brake shoes retaining springs would be a snap. I am currently considering that as an option. In my view, it won't affect the strength of the hub as there is a 13mm hole there already so you can adjust the brske shoes.
                Yeh, what a feeling! What a piece of crap!
                ​​​
                Well had another go with some new strategies.
                First, to keep more control of the dog leg pin, i welded a small bolt onto the head of it. I could then move it to a better position and hold it there.
                Second, I compressed the spring in the vice and held it compressed by using some fine copper wire. Once I had the spring and the caps in place I was able to cut the wire to release it.
                A pair of tweezers was used to fit the outside cap.
                I found a piece of 10mm dowel and hammered two small nails into the end of it. I cut the heads off the nails which left me with a kind of two pronged fork. I was then able to push it through the hole in the hub and twist the retaining cap. Hallalooyar job done! Only spent around 12 to 14 hours from start to finish.

                Bought a new disk /drum $120 dollars. I gave my new dowel tool to the local mechanic with the hints. I hope some of this will be of some help to those who have to deal with this bloody awful job in the future
                Last edited by G.Johnno; 11-04-2019, 12:05 AM. Reason: Found the strength to have another go.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Some good posts here about the park brake replacement. I found a small socket, about 3/16 on an extension bar goes through the inspection hole and fits nicely over the pin head. You can then turn the cup with a pair of pliers.
                  I spent hours and hours swearing and cursing at these pins but was a relieving achievement once I worked it out.
                  Anyway, I have another issue with my park brake left rear. After changing the shoes and all components, everything was fine for about a week then all of a sudden a loud knocking noise coming from back left whilst driving along. It stopped rather quickly and disappeared. Turns out it is intermittent but very loud. I've pulled the wheel off and spun the rotor, all sounds good. Took the rotor off and all looks good, no loose or out of place parts. I was starting to question my thoughts on it being the park brake so I removed the park brake from the LHS and took it for a drive on the dirt track. The noise has now disappeared all together...Would love any suggestions???

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    If that dog leg or elbow pin has stretched or straightened such, it may be scraping on the back of the axle hub. I found mine did and had to bend it back to its original form. I guess you have solved your problem by now, but posted this to advise other members.

                    Comment

                    Working...
                    X