cv shaft replacement

[vk2ss55 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close vk2ss55]

Does someone have a video or info for a cv shaft replacement ?
Cheers Ross

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Prado?

No video.
Check u tube.
It's pretty str8 forward if you are mechanically handy.you will need a 35mm socket.
Be carefull of abs lines etc.

[Gordon Member Find all posts View Profile Close Gordon]

you will need a 35mm socket.

And a serious breaking bar.
PS how have you killed a CV joint?

[vk2ss55 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close vk2ss55]

Thanks Guys....no Gordon I haven't killed a CV but would like to know how to do it just in case .
Cheers Ross

[Gordon Member Find all posts View Profile Close Gordon]

If my silastic http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ed-a-Stckyboot gives out I'll post the routine...

[Gordon Member Find all posts View Profile Close Gordon]

And finally... https://www.toyota.com.au/owners/par...plit-boot-kits is available for the 150!!

Silastic is looking okay but I will pack one of these in any case. Ooops should have asked Mr T first.

[Gordon Member Find all posts View Profile Close Gordon]

So here we are again. Silastic didn't quite give up but was leaking so I replaced the boot the old fashioned way.
1. remove the centre cap:


2. Remove the split pin and castellated retainer from the axle nut:


3. Refit the road wheel, lower the car (or get someone to put their foot on the brake) and undo the axle nut. 35mm socket + long bar. Loosen the nut but don't undo it yet, then remove the road wheel.


4. Remove the brake hose & ABS cable bracket, then unbolt the calliper and tie it out of the way. Remove the brake rotor.



5. Remove the split pin, then undo the tie rod end nut and tap (belt the crap out of it - you need to distort the hole and shock it out) the end of the casting (not the bolt) til the bolt drops out.


6. Sorry no photo, but undo the 2 giant bolts from below the hub. The hold the hub to the ball joint.

7. Apparently this can be done with a soft hammer but a puller works nicely: Draw the hub off the axle.


8. Drain your front diff if you need to (if your car is raised only on the left you probably don't need to), then lever and/or tug the drive shaft out of the diff housing. If you're going to tug, probably better to tug on the shaft, not the outer CV joint. If you are levering, stick your levers in as far as possible to minimise damage to the soft flange on the inner end of the tripod housing.

9. Remove the spring clip in the end of the shaft, cut off your inner boot. Mark the tripod housing against the shaft and slide it off.

10. Mark the tripod against the shaft, remove the spring clip and slide off the tripod. If you need to replace the outer boot you're on your own now, come back when that's done.

11. Wipe parts clean of grease, don't get solvent in there, and slide the new boot over the shaft. A tip from the Haynes manual is to put tape over the splines to prevent damage to the new boot.


12. Replace the tripod noting original orientation, install the spring clip and replace the tripod housing, then the outer spring clip.

13. Grease everything liberally and fit the boot into the correct spot.

14. I used a special combination of tools to tighten the boot clamps (end of the cutters were ground blunt first ):


15. Now put it back in. It will slide into the diff and click into the correct location.

16. Put it back together. Note the axle nut torque is around 300ft pounds so you will need serious hardware to tighten.

By the way this is how my Stickyboot looked after 20,000km & 10 months. Again a good temporary fix but not necessarily permanent.

[Rick21 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Rick21]

heaps of gratitude for the info cheers.
Rick

[Gordon Member Find all posts View Profile Close Gordon]

Cheers mate enjoy!