Ribman, any pics of where you connect the hoses? I assume you did not use joiners.
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150 auto transmission oil cooler install - Davies Craig 678 with fan and thermo switch
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Originally posted by peter_mcc View PostTin
How much hose did you use? In the first post you said "I also needed another metre of 3/8" oil cooler hose" so I bought 1m. But when I went to install it today (I know, super slow) it seems I need about 1m for each side - ie 2m total!
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Originally posted by MidLifeCrisis View PostRibman, any pics of where you connect the hoses? I assume you did not use joiners.
Tin was actually taking photos so he should be able to upload them (when he gets a spare breath btn work, home and people like me).
We ran the fan to a dash switch (air on board switch when it arrives, thanks Aus Post).
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Hi forum,
Just did my install on the weekend, cheers tin for the mounts, for lack of a better word precision champ. "Thanks" easy clean and has made a noticeable difference. Haven't installed the thermo fan yet but have a little electronic circuit, cheers Michael, that will switch the relay for the fan. Pictures to come. 3/8th tee one leg blocked and thermo coupling glued in, pictures to come, installing this weekend, pending daddy day care duties.
Caveman
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Well I have now been running the cooler for a week and I'm very impress with the outcome.
installed the DC 678 cooler with Tins brackets on my 150 serise facelift model. Only issues I found was one of my 3/8 tubes coming out of the cooler was rubbing on Tins bracket as the tube was wedged betwenn the cooler bracket and air-con bracket. I fixed this by splitting some tube to cover the edge on the cooler bracket. From there the tubes run on top of all the coolers to the cold trans outlet on the radiator.
I was lucky enough to get 400mls of toyota tranny oil for free and just added most of it to the cooler and tubes. As my car has 20k on the clock with about 5 of it towing a boat, the tranny oil was still cherry red.
I have had my scan guage pretty much since new and have seen my auto sitting most days around the 80 mark. In heavy traffic I can get to 90. Now lm seeing it going no more then 65 and it take pretty the whole trip in traffic to reach it. The last few nighs on the open hwy it didnt get over 45. Shift changning is a lot smoother and cleaner and the tc slip doesnt feel so laggy.. Yet to tow the boat, but from the results already l knowits going to be a positive... cant wait.
this is a must do even if not towingPrado MY14 150 Series Altitude - Rhino Pioneer rack with backbone system, Tint, Fuel Manager Pre-Filter Fuel/Water Separator, Mann Provent 200 oil catch can, Toyota 2.5T Tow Bar, Scangauge2, TJM T3 winch bar, Narva HID 225, Polyair Air bags, 2" lift (Bilstein & Kings), Uniden 7700 with GME AE4018BK3, 32" LED Light bar, 2mt Awning, 1100mm Treds with mount plates
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I've finally got the bracket/cooler on and enough pipe & oil to plumb it in. But reading all this I've got some questions:
- Is there anything "bad" in joining the return pipe up the top (where it came off the radiator) rather than taking it all the way down to the steel return pipe? I took off the bash plates and looked "up" where the rubber hose goes - I can't see how I'd be able to get a replacement pipe to fit up through the same clamps/etc. Joining it up the top seems a heap easier!
- how critical is the transmission oil level? Reading the instructions here it seems rather involved to do it "properly". Have other people checked the level afterwards or just made sure the hoses & radiator are all full before joining them up? If the cooler was full of oil and the hoses were full when put on I can't imagine it would be more than 50ml of oil "short" which doesn't seem like much to me!
- I need to use some sealing tape for my temperature switch - is "plumbers tape" the right stuff to use? It's pretty inert and good for 250C (according to the label). Or do the fittings need something more exotic?
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Hi peter, the cooler should go between the return from radiator to the transmission. I ran from the output of radiator , through the cooler then back to the metal transmission return pipe . (Not sure if that answers that one?)
You will need another 1500mm of hose.
Matt2008 120 GX D4D with a few extras
Rig build here
[url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33115-Mattfunk-s-120[/url]
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Originally posted by Mattfunk 120 View PostHi peter, the cooler should go between the return from radiator to the transmission. I ran from the output of radiator , through the cooler then back to the metal transmission return pipe . (Not sure if that answers that one?)
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Originally posted by peter_mcc View PostThanks - that's what I was planning to do. How hard was it to get the hose down to the metal return pipe? It looks like it goes down a fairly small space and through a bracket.2008 120 GX D4D with a few extras
Rig build here
[url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?33115-Mattfunk-s-120[/url]
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2 things to thinks about.
warranty. If you still have it its best to use the factory tranny cooler on the radiator.
Read the dc 678 manual. They recommend to use the factory tranny cooler.Prado MY14 150 Series Altitude - Rhino Pioneer rack with backbone system, Tint, Fuel Manager Pre-Filter Fuel/Water Separator, Mann Provent 200 oil catch can, Toyota 2.5T Tow Bar, Scangauge2, TJM T3 winch bar, Narva HID 225, Polyair Air bags, 2" lift (Bilstein & Kings), Uniden 7700 with GME AE4018BK3, 32" LED Light bar, 2mt Awning, 1100mm Treds with mount plates
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Originally posted by evltoy View Post2 things to thinks about.
warranty. If you still have it its best to use the factory tranny cooler on the radiator.
Read the dc 678 manual. They recommend to use the factory tranny cooler.
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Originally posted by peter_mcc View PostTin's "instructions" have it installed after the factory cooler - ie oil goes through the factory cooler then through the extra one.Prado MY14 150 Series Altitude - Rhino Pioneer rack with backbone system, Tint, Fuel Manager Pre-Filter Fuel/Water Separator, Mann Provent 200 oil catch can, Toyota 2.5T Tow Bar, Scangauge2, TJM T3 winch bar, Narva HID 225, Polyair Air bags, 2" lift (Bilstein & Kings), Uniden 7700 with GME AE4018BK3, 32" LED Light bar, 2mt Awning, 1100mm Treds with mount plates
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For anyone interested I saw the Davies Craig 678 oil cooler in Supacheap Auto yesterday for $139.[B]2010 GXL Prado D4D Auto[/B] - ARB Deluxe winch bar, Roadsafe recovery points, Rhinorack Pioneer platform, AMTS fuel filter/compressor combo bracket with FM100 filter and ARB compressor, Maxtrax, TIN175 transmission oil cooler bracket and tranny cooler. I'm sure I'll find something else....
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Originally posted by Tin175 View Post
MikeMy build [url]http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?25816-Mikes-150VX-Yes-it-s-another-silver-Prado[/url]
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Originally posted by mickmac_42 View PostI've installed my cooler, but haven't plumbed it in yet. I'm just curious, why is the return ATF line at the top of the radiator. I'd have thought a cooler would be more efficient if the hot stuff went in the top and the cool stuff was drawn out the bottom. Is there something i'm missing here?
MikePrado MY14 150 Series Altitude - Rhino Pioneer rack with backbone system, Tint, Fuel Manager Pre-Filter Fuel/Water Separator, Mann Provent 200 oil catch can, Toyota 2.5T Tow Bar, Scangauge2, TJM T3 winch bar, Narva HID 225, Polyair Air bags, 2" lift (Bilstein & Kings), Uniden 7700 with GME AE4018BK3, 32" LED Light bar, 2mt Awning, 1100mm Treds with mount plates
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