How to get wire from battery to anderson plug on tow bar?

[peter2904 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close peter2904]

The existing wiring was done by dealer and is far too small to be of any use at all.
My prefered path is along the LHS kick panel inside the car. How do I get 2 x 6B&S wires (or twin if it will fit) through the firewall?
Other option is through the chassis.

Thanks
Peter

[LiveFreeAndRoam Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LiveFreeAndRoam]

I ran mine on top of the chassis rail and zip-tied. If you want to go through the firewall you will feed it through the black rubber plug. Other wires already pass through this, so it should be easy to find. Most likely you will need to open a slit with a sharp blade. I cut a small 'X' that allows me to squeeze cable through. keep it a tight fit so to avoid dust finding its way into the cabin space.

LFaR.

[Ryzz Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Ryzz]

I wouldn't bother going through the cabin, it just an added hassle that has few benefits. Get some plastic split tubing, run the wire through this then cable tie it to the chassis rails (above, not below).

Don't forget to put a 40a breaker on the positive wire near the battery.

[keencdk Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close keencdk]

I ran 3B&S from the main battery to the rear of the Prado to keep the voltage drop as low as possible. I have a circuit breaker mounted in the engine bay as close as possible to the main battery just in case.

On the passenger side firewall there is a big rubber grommet where the wiring loom runs. There are also 2 "nipples" on this grommet which when I cut the ends off them are a very tight fit for 3B&S (some dishwashing detergent helped me out here) but this would be perfect for 6B&S. I then ran the cable through the kick panels, and finished on the left hand side of the Prado where I have removed the carpetted side panel where the second row seat belt bolts near the floor.

I have removed the third row seats and have a false floor, and a small ply box replaces the trim and houses a redarc solenoid. On the output of the solenoid I have an anderson plug for plugging in my AGM battery housed in a battery box and a second pair of 6B&S cable to an external waterproof anderson plug on the towbar.

This way my second battery is in the cabin where it is not exposed to high temps, I can run a bigger battery, I can remove the battery box and have it in my campsite with my fridge, and I can connect it to solar panels when I am in camp for a few days.

I can also plug in a solar panel to the towbar anderson plug to charge the second battery if it stays in the car

Overall I am very happy with the result.

[sbclover Member Find all posts View Profile Close sbclover]

While your running your 6B&S run some 6mm twin core with it and run that through the floor in to the LH rear panel to power
some addition power ports. I used 25mm conduit all the way and used conduit P clamps bolted to the spare 6 x 1mm threads in the chassis.
Will add some pics of mine tonight.

Sean

[Wazza2 Member Find all posts View Profile Close Wazza2]

I have the ABR Sidewinder full kit and will be using the LH Carpet track as the route. That's set to be tonight's job now that all the cig & hella plugs are in place. Now I am wondering if I take the easy route and go via the chassis rail. I hate that rubber grommet/firewall from experience with the UHF install!

keencdk a pick would be great. I too have false floor and also now air comp above LHR wheel arch. Tempted to do away with the stupid LHS cargo area trim and ridiculous amount of space it wastes. All that for a cup holder, sheesh

[tassie tiger Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close tassie tiger]

I ran mine through the cabin. You dont need to remove much. Poke it through the LH grommet as above and remove the LH carpet trim pieces, the plastic step for the 3rd row and the front kick panel. This is where the wires all run down the side. Go to the storage space next to the LH rear seat (3rd row) and pull out the tray. Using a stiff piece of wire or similar (the yellow 'tongue' on particle flooring is perfective (check out a building site) push some brickies line down from here to the area near the LH passenger door area. Take off the LR plastic cover for the jack and you can now run the wires the whole way very easily. The whole process should take about 10min.

Having raced rally cars I have been amazed at where sticks and stones end up under the vehicle. Even had one take out a fuel line once. 4wding is really no different. So I never run any wires underneath simply because Murphy will get me for sure.

cheers

[sbclover Member Find all posts View Profile Close sbclover]

When the fridge is out, all looks stock.

Sean

[Matt01 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Matt01]

what type of socket is that???

[Chaser Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chaser]

if you can get it through the chassis that is the best. we use a snake at work to get 6 b&s twin core for all Anderson plugs. just make sure you use condute preferably not split...

[sbclover Member Find all posts View Profile Close sbclover]

Engel type on the bottom and normal cigarette lighter on top

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Engel-Sin...item5ae61e3b31

[peter2904 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close peter2904]

Thanks everyone. Cannot believe the number of replies in such a short time.
I do perfer the inside path for the added protection (had experinece of trying to do trackside repair air locker line on a mate's 4WD over easter). The chassis seems to have some sharp bit inside and looks difficult to run on top chassis near petrol (diesel) tank.

The get cable through the grommet, would I be better off using 2 cables (a red & a back) rather than twin?

[LiveFreeAndRoam Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close LiveFreeAndRoam]

You really only need to run a single lead, Peter. Any more is belts and braces. If you prefer two, then twin would seem to be a little easier to manage.

LFaR.

[Chaser Member Find all posts View Profile Close Chaser]

If you can get a bare metal properly prepared earth near the Anderson plug a single will be fine.

[brogers Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close brogers]

no no, definatley run a positive and a negative wire....not a single lead for the anderson. I can't remember what size now, but thicker than you think...don't argue, don't enter into discussion, its definately the way to go if you are running anything more than a small LED light or digital clock..and if thats all you were using it for you wouldn't need the anderson plug....seriously, anything less is a waste of time. Mine was installed by an aircraft engineer motor head...and any good auto electrician will agree.