Perth Dual Batteries

[SuperDavid Member Find all posts View Profile Close SuperDavid]

Hey Guys,

ARB osborne park said they would only fit the bc dc and it would be $1300
The 4wd shop down the road from that arb said voltage boosting diodes are a bad idea and quoted me $1500 for bc dc
ARB Wangara quoted me the regular isolator prices with no knowledge of needing a bc dc charger. $880 - $1146
Opposite lock Wangara quoted me $800 for regular isolator and I have to put in the voltage boosting diode myself because they wont touch that. or $1150 for a bc dc setup.

Where did all you Perth people get your dual batteries done and how much did it cost?
What did you get done? the bc dc setup or the voltage boosting diode with a regular isolator?

I dont know what to do! The installers make me feel like the voltage boosting diode is dodgy and risky, installers are charging and arm and a leg for bc dc.
Opposite lock seems the best option for either installation except the fellow mentioned the installation of the battery tray requires drilling into the inner guard and probably moving the aircon pipe. And after reading the inner guard cracking thread I'm slightly parranoid.

When I got the Prado, I thought great! its got space for a second battery this should make things easy! But since I've done a ton of reading here it seems more complicated than ever! All I want is a dual battery system that works, that doesn't cost an arm and a leg and that doesn't effect reliability!!!

thanks

David

[Smithy - 120 D4D Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Smithy - 120 D4D]

Hi David - I am a bit of novice when it comes to working on my car (I am an accountant by trade), but I did manage to wire in my own dual battery setup, and everything works perfectly. The Redarc instructions are pretty easy to follow.

I also have a Redarc SBI12, and have only been using it for the past 6 months, but it has been perfect. We ran a fridge for a number of 3 day camping trips, and never had a problem keeping charge in the spare battery. From what I am aware, the Redarc is a pretty simple setup, but it is also a very reliable one.

It also has an override switch that will allow you to draw charge from the second battery to the crank battery, in the event that you have a flat battery, so you can effectively jump yourself (I have proved this works, when I inadvertantly left a light on in the car for the weekend, and SWMBO jumped in to go... and well, she gave me a call demanding me to return and jump the car. I told her to flick the override switch, turn the key, and Voilla! Off and running again).

I paid $232 for the isolator on e-bay, and got a witing kit from Repco, but you can also buy complete packages from and ARB dealer.

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

Hi David, when looking to install mine I got the same run around in Perth. It seemed to me that there were a lot of self appointed experts who sprouted more than a bit of bs.

I bought the ABR sidewinder kit which comes with all you need and full instructions. Simple job, just take your time.

People get very worked up about diode vs charger, bottom line 2years on the diode works fine.

Where in Perth are you?

[mjrandom Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close mjrandom]

I guess you have read through this:

http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...n-Sbi12-system

Without summarising this again I think you need to start at the start which is how big a battery do you need? There are calculators on the web to guide you in that. The 12V shop has a good one from memory. Then how much space have you got? The D4D can only just accomodate a 12" battery in the spare space in front of the airfilter and I have no idea what space the V6 has.

If you are putting the battery under the bonnet then I would recommend sticking with a conventional lead acid battery or at least use one of ABR's battery jackets (or from somewhere else I just have only seen the ABR unit) around an AGM battery. If you are going with lead acid then the majority on here have a basic isolator and the booster diode. Leigh is now making his latest booster in micro size that suits the 150 fuse box.

http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ng-Diode/page7

If you are going AGM my opinion (which probably differs from others) is that you should use a DC DC charger. There are 4 or 5 different brands out there. But the DC DC route is much more expensive on top of the added cost of an AGM battery over a lead acid deep cycle battery. My reasoning is that I had a good isolator in the 120 and it only charged the AGM to about 90%. Whether that is due to under bonnet temps or the charger I don't know. It wasn't until my install in the 150 that I realised it wasn't optimum.

Best suggestion is work out what appliances you will be running, how many days you will be needing power and then calculate your battery size. Decide where you are going to mount the battery and then look at systems. BEFORE you order anything go through a few rig builds to see what and how others have done it. There must be 20 or more 150 rig builds with several different options. For example my AGM battery is in the back where the 3rd row seats used to live. I use a BCDC1225.

At the end of the day remember that you can buy a lead acid deep cycle battery of around 100AH size (which will give you maybe 60 - 70AH capacity), battery tray, isolator and fuse diode AND a 120W solar panel for less than the install of an AGM and an AGM battery and DC DC charger.

I found the Recreational Power Guide from here

http://www.warbonnet.com.au/store.html

to be useful but you have to buy it. And it is only one person's opinion. There are other opinions on the net too for free. Google will sort you out.

At the end of the day you are probably going to need to supplement the charge on your batteries with a good AC smart charger so factor that in to the equation as well.

Michael

[SuperDavid Member Find all posts View Profile Close SuperDavid]

Hi David,

Other members can speak on the technical side of things more than what I am able to. My dual battery set up is a Redarc SBI12 isolator with an alternator boosting diode. This works really well for me and no issues at all with the ABD making a big difference once installed. I do a lot of short trips in town so will put both of my batteries on a charger once a month to keep them topped up.

I have not found the need for an underbonnet charger.

Hi David - I am a bit of novice when it comes to working on my car (I am an accountant by trade), but I did manage to wire in my own dual battery setup, and everything works perfectly. The Redarc instructions are pretty easy to follow.

I also have a Redarc SBI12, and have only been using it for the past 6 months, but it has been perfect. We ran a fridge for a number of 3 day camping trips, and never had a problem keeping charge in the spare battery. From what I am aware, the Redarc is a pretty simple setup, but it is also a very reliable one.

It also has an override switch that will allow you to draw charge from the second battery to the crank battery, in the event that you have a flat battery, so you can effectively jump yourself (I have proved this works, when I inadvertantly left a light on in the car for the weekend, and SWMBO jumped in to go... and well, she gave me a call demanding me to return and jump the car. I told her to flick the override switch, turn the key, and Voilla! Off and running again).

I paid $232 for the isolator on e-bay, and got a witing kit from Repco, but you can also buy complete packages from and ARB dealer.

thanks guys!

Hi David, when looking to install mine I got the same run around in Perth. It seemed to me that there were a lot of self appointed experts who sprouted more than a bit of bs.

I bought the ABR sidewinder kit which comes with all you need and full instructions. Simple job, just take your time.

People get very worked up about diode vs charger, bottom line 2years on the diode works fine.

Where in Perth are you?

Thanks! I live live north of the river

I guess you have read through this:

http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...n-Sbi12-system

Without summarising this again I think you need to start at the start which is how big a battery do you need? There are calculators on the web to guide you in that. The 12V shop has a good one from memory. Then how much space have you got? The D4D can only just accomodate a 12" battery in the spare space in front of the airfilter and I have no idea what space the V6 has.

If you are putting the battery under the bonnet then I would recommend sticking with a conventional lead acid battery or at least use one of ABR's battery jackets (or from somewhere else I just have only seen the ABR unit) around an AGM battery. If you are going with lead acid then the majority on here have a basic isolator and the booster diode. Leigh is now making his latest booster in micro size that suits the 150 fuse box.

http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ng-Diode/page7

If you are going AGM my opinion (which probably differs from others) is that you should use a DC DC charger. There are 4 or 5 different brands out there. But the DC DC route is much more expensive on top of the added cost of an AGM battery over a lead acid deep cycle battery. My reasoning is that I had a good isolator in the 120 and it only charged the AGM to about 90%. Whether that is due to under bonnet temps or the charger I don't know. It wasn't until my install in the 150 that I realised it wasn't optimum.

Best suggestion is work out what appliances you will be running, how many days you will be needing power and then calculate your battery size. Decide where you are going to mount the battery and then look at systems. BEFORE you order anything go through a few rig builds to see what and how others have done it. There must be 20 or more 150 rig builds with several different options. For example my AGM battery is in the back where the 3rd row seats used to live. I use a BCDC1225.

At the end of the day remember that you can buy a lead acid deep cycle battery of around 100AH size (which will give you maybe 60 - 70AH capacity), battery tray, isolator and fuse diode AND a 120W solar panel for less than the install of an AGM and an AGM battery and DC DC charger.

I found the Recreational Power Guide from here

http://www.warbonnet.com.au/store.html

to be useful but you have to buy it. And it is only one person's opinion. There are other opinions on the net too for free. Google will sort you out.

At the end of the day you are probably going to need to supplement the charge on your batteries with a good AC smart charger so factor that in to the equation as well.

Michael

Yes I did read through those threads thanks. Those threads are what make me want to go for the simple isolator and voltage booster.
I dont really need anything fancy, I had in my mind that I would be going a normal deep cycle lead acid. As for my power requirements, I was hoping to get 1 or 2 days of running a fridge off the battery. Usually my few trips involved driving from fishing spot to fishing spot or exploring so i can't picture in my mind setting up in one spot and not moving for days and days on end, so I dont think i'll need to get much more than one day out of my second battery.
I do have the d4d.



Seems like most people install their own but I'm not mechanicly or electrically minded so I would rather pay someone to do the job. I could probably get it done with my cousins help(he installed dual batteries on his Discovery last week) but since the Prado is brand new I kind of want it done neatly and professionaly. But I'll keep looking and asking questions and see what I can come up with

[Rego.01 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Rego.01]

Give Paul Grgich a call 0402340043. He runs his own auto sparky business around Malaga way. Absolute gun sparky, suggest you try him for price. I use him for my business and also does some mechanical/performance work.

[krypto Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close krypto]

I've seen a few 'professional' installations that were pretty poor and where the a/c pipe has been severely bent. There's no way of fitting a 12" battery without some major bending of the a/c pipe, my 10" battery which is tight against the guard still required a minor move of the pipe.

It's also definitely worth understanding the installation in case you ever have problems when away.

[Sozjot Member Find all posts View Profile Close Sozjot]

David,
I've just been through all this myself. I went and saw an auto electrician who made up the elec harness for me - all the ends terminated, in line fuse, convoluted conduit (the hollow stuff you hide the wires in). Cost about $70. Then bought a century NS70T wet cell battery for $160 (10 inch long deep cycle marine battery). Bought the redarc SBi12 isolator from "autolec" on ebay for $88. Bought the ARB battery tray yesterday for $142 though the dills sold me the tray for the 120 series I think despite me asking twice about a tray for a 150 diesel! In a nutshell, you should be able to get the under bonnet stuff done for under $500. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Soz

[sacred cow Member Find all posts View Profile Close sacred cow]

Hi Soz,

I am acquiring the bits and pieces to also install a second battery so was very interested to read your comments. I am only just thinking about what battery to buy and I wondered why you selected a smallish battery.

Thanks Glenn

[SuperDavid Member Find all posts View Profile Close SuperDavid]

Give Paul Grgich a call 0402340043. He runs his own auto sparky business around Malaga way. Absolute gun sparky, suggest you try him for price. I use him for my business and also does some mechanical/performance work.

thanks I'll call him monday!

I've seen a few 'professional' installations that were pretty poor and where the a/c pipe has been severely bent. There's no way of fitting a 12" battery without some major bending of the a/c pipe, my 10" battery which is tight against the guard still required a minor move of the pipe.

It's also definitely worth understanding the installation in case you ever have problems when away.

yes you are probably correct!

David,
I've just been through all this myself. I went and saw an auto electrician who made up the elec harness for me - all the ends terminated, in line fuse, convoluted conduit (the hollow stuff you hide the wires in). Cost about $70. Then bought a century NS70T wet cell battery for $160 (10 inch long deep cycle marine battery). Bought the redarc SBi12 isolator from "autolec" on ebay for $88. Bought the ARB battery tray yesterday for $142 though the dills sold me the tray for the 120 series I think despite me asking twice about a tray for a 150 diesel! In a nutshell, you should be able to get the under bonnet stuff done for under $500. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Soz

Hope you dont mind but I've got a bunch of questions for you!
Who was the electrician you saw? did you ever speak to him about full install price?
Did you have to move the ac pipe much to fit in that battery?
Does the arb tray use only existing mounting holes or does it require a couple drilled into the inner guard?
Do you run a fridge? how long do you get out of the NS70T?

Opposite lock can do the SBi12 install for $800 so I'm just tempted to go with them since the under the bonnet stuff costs $500 - $600. My cousin spent $600 on his recently.

Forgetting the wiring under the bonnet how hard is it to run power down to the back of the wagon?

[Craigo72 Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Craigo72]

If you're only needing to run a fridge over night the standard set up with the redarc solenoid will do you fine. If you're running it during the day to move fishing spots or go exploring you'll be fine over night for sure.

ARB bracket doesn't need any holes drilled, takes about 5 minutes to fit and has a mount on it for the Redarc solenoid.

[Sozjot Member Find all posts View Profile Close Sozjot]

Glenn,
I'm not running a fridge so 75ah is plenty to drive lights etc whilst camped overnight - might need something larger in the future but for now it should be fine.
Super David: the install just happened this weekend gone so no camping experience yet. Off to the Gawler Ranges this Thursday so we'll see how it goes. The tray bolts in simply though there is a tojo earth point nearby that needed some massaging to prevent rubbing. The aircon pipe and associated bracketry also needs some fiddling to ensure nothing rubs. I was going to get the job done but with quotes around the $800 to $900 I figured some self help was in order. The electrician was just a shop I spotted (in Adelaide)and popped in to ask a couple of questions. They were only too happy to help and thus ensured themselves of my future business. All in all, the job is fairly simple and there are a few threads herein on how to do it. Brains has a good description of the work required. Sing out if you need more.
Cheers,
Soz

[Sozjot Member Find all posts View Profile Close Sozjot]

Goddam double post