Tweet
I have the new 2014 model, and am part way through my DB install, I have the booster diode replacement fuse but I have a question. The current Voltage standard at hot idle is 13.75v - do I need to install the booster to charge a Yellow Top D34 with redarc solenoid?
-
[CENTER][B]-=2014 GXL D4D Auto Graphite, Firestone Airbags, ARB/Optima D34 Dual Battery, ARB UVP, TJM Airtech Snorkel[/B][B]=-[/B]
[/CENTER] -
That seems like a decent voltage, maybe you dont need it?Originally posted by Symo View Post
What does the voltage go to when you put it in?
ps I dont know anything about anything...but 13.7 is about what I get in my 2013 prado with a hot engine and the booster. -
It's at the low end of Optima recommended voltage range for charging a Yellow Top.
See here:
http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us...care/charging/
MickComment
-
Good one Mick, I'll put her in and retest tomorrow.[CENTER][B]-=2014 GXL D4D Auto Graphite, Firestone Airbags, ARB/Optima D34 Dual Battery, ARB UVP, TJM Airtech Snorkel[/B][B]=-[/B]
[/CENTER]Comment
-
David,Originally posted by SuperDavid View Post
if you are viewing the voltage on a Scangauge or similar, add 0.4 to 0.5 volts to the reading, as the ECU reduces the charge figure.
cheers
Geoff2012 Kakadu V6 - Graphite, Opposite Lock Bar, Hella Rallye 4000, GME 3440, Scangauge, Featherlite Awning, TG150 Guard, Traxide UC160 Dual Battery system and 2 Yellowtop batts, Safari Snorkel, Bushskinz bash plates, 2" suspension lift, 3D mats
Mods to come - Front locker, Runva 11XP winch, 265/65R18Comment
-
Just to clarify I used a multimeter on the battery while idling warm. Haven't done the diode yet, prob do it after the first service as I haven't wired up the isolator yet, just bolted all the parts in.
The battery was reading 12.8v warm sitting for about 2 hours prior to starting and testing. The voles read 13.8v initially but settled on 13.7v for a few mins. Not sure what a longer duration would yield.[CENTER][B]-=2014 GXL D4D Auto Graphite, Firestone Airbags, ARB/Optima D34 Dual Battery, ARB UVP, TJM Airtech Snorkel[/B][B]=-[/B]
[/CENTER]Comment
-
That reading wasnt through scangauge, but through voltage reader plugging in to my rear cigarette socket. Fridge was on and it was a hot day.Originally posted by geoffmc1 View Post
I guess there would be some voltage drop there. Not I deal conditions really
Just now on a cool day with a hot engine straight from the second battery I'm reading 14.1v.Comment
-
I see Piranha offroad are selling their own version of this Voltage boosting idea. They call theirs "ALTERNATOR OUTPUT COMPENSATOR" (AOC). see link: Alternator Output Compensator
I have seen a Youtube of his demonstration to the dangers of buying the internet versions of the Diode/Fuse replacement.... Good demo, but would like to hear comments from LeighW, & others as to their thoughts on the subject ?
Their price is $98 per device.....u got to be kiddin....Last edited by rob_macca67; 15-03-2014, 07:56 PM.[I]cheers..... Rob (macca)[/I]
[I][B][COLOR=DarkRed]Car-4: 1996 Defender Tdi [/COLOR][/B][/I]
[I][B][COLOR=Blue]Car-3: 1996 Discovery Tdi Auto[/COLOR][/B][/I]
[B][I][COLOR=Green]Car-2: 1993 Suzuki Vitara 4Dr (modified for Playing) [/COLOR][COLOR=#ff0000]Now Retired[/COLOR][COLOR=Green]
[/COLOR][/I][/B]
[B][I][COLOR=DarkOrchid]Car-1: 2010 Toyota Prado 150's (Missus Car/current touring vehicle)[/COLOR][/I][/B]Comment
-
Installed the diode after completing the DBS and it reads 14.2 peak and 14.05 idle at room temperature.[CENTER][B]-=2014 GXL D4D Auto Graphite, Firestone Airbags, ARB/Optima D34 Dual Battery, ARB UVP, TJM Airtech Snorkel[/B][B]=-[/B]
[/CENTER]Comment
-
Hi macca
Any chance of posting the link to the YouTube video. Had quick search and couldn't find anything.
Cheers
DarrenComment
-
[I]cheers..... Rob (macca)[/I]
[I][B][COLOR=DarkRed]Car-4: 1996 Defender Tdi [/COLOR][/B][/I]
[I][B][COLOR=Blue]Car-3: 1996 Discovery Tdi Auto[/COLOR][/B][/I]
[B][I][COLOR=Green]Car-2: 1993 Suzuki Vitara 4Dr (modified for Playing) [/COLOR][COLOR=#ff0000]Now Retired[/COLOR][COLOR=Green][/COLOR][/I][/B]
[B][I][COLOR=DarkOrchid]Car-1: 2010 Toyota Prado 150's (Missus Car/current touring vehicle)[/COLOR][/I][/B]Comment
-
After leaving the car parked all day I checked the battery voltage and found the following since installing the diode.
Main battery 12.54v, Aux 12.7v
Something doesn't seem right here...
I noticed for the last few days that the isolator stays connected for a long time, sometimes overnight, because the main battery doesn't drop below 12.7v - but withing 18 hours of installing the diode its at 12.5v which is alarming.
Any ideas?[CENTER][B]-=2014 GXL D4D Auto Graphite, Firestone Airbags, ARB/Optima D34 Dual Battery, ARB UVP, TJM Airtech Snorkel[/B][B]=-[/B]
[/CENTER]Comment
-
UPDATE - Just idled the car for 30sec, watched the main go up to 14.1v then switched off and the main settled at 12.75v which is what I have seen before, I then turned on teh highbeams untill the isolator tripped, and checked the voltage, 12.4v...
Is this normal or is my genuine toyota battery stuffed?[CENTER][B]-=2014 GXL D4D Auto Graphite, Firestone Airbags, ARB/Optima D34 Dual Battery, ARB UVP, TJM Airtech Snorkel[/B][B]=-[/B]
[/CENTER]Comment
-
I have noticed that my main battery does have lower readings than the secondary battery. Similar to yours I think. Couldnt tell you if thats normal or if its just us in the same boat.Originally posted by Symo View PostComment
-
What Aux battery do you have? How old is the OEM battery? Batteries have different internal resistance, the lower the better as they charge quicker. Batteries have a different voltages when charged and when discharging.Originally posted by Symo View PostWinston.
White 2009 120 Series D4D GXL manual.Comment
Comment