Dual battery setup for 2.8 1GD

[dBC]

- Redarc BCDC 1225D ($415)

I think that 25A charger from Redarc really hits a sweetspot of price, charge times and battery longevity for those of us stuck with the low alternator output voltages of the 2.8L. Mine's the model before yours (can source from solar or alternator, but not at the same time) but after a year and half I'm extremely happy with its performance. The camping battery still feels like it's brand new; even after months of short city runs, that charger really keeps the charge up to it.

[Hally]

Hi Everyone,
Here is my Dual Battery installation;
- Redarc BCDC 1225D ($415) held in position by an Out of Town 4WD SS bracket ($55) and protected by Redarc FK40 40A Midi Fuses ($60)
- Century/Yuasa 95Ah Deep Cycle Maintenance Free Battery ($280) with Piranha battery tray ($195) (not shown yet in photos)
- 8B&S cable between main battery, BCDC and Aux Battery ($20)
- 8B&S twin core cable run to rear ($40) of vehicle protected by 30A inline Maxi fuse ($15).
- 2 x 12V sockets in rear cargo area ($30), each protected by individual 10A inline fuses ($10);
- All cable joints & lugs were crimped, soldered, covered in heat shrink and put inside split wiring loom. (~$60)
Total spend (excluding own time of approximately 5 hours) approx. $$1,180.00

Not cheap but I am very happy with the job and looks very professional.... even if I so say myself..... Local installers in Sydney (auto-electricians, ARB, etc.) quoted me over $2k to suppyl and fit this system.

Sorry I didn't take any photos during the installation. I was too focused just getting the job done.


[ATTACH=CONFIG]25886[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]25887[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]25888[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH=CONFIG]25889[/ATTACH]

More Photos Below....

Very nice,
I did similar with my 1240 but got tin(from pp) to make ss bracket side ways to see lights through front grill.

[2016VX]

[2016VX]

Hi Everyone,
Here is my Dual Battery installation;
- Redarc BCDC 1225D ($415) held in position by an Out of Town 4WD SS bracket ($55) and protected by Redarc FK40 40A Midi Fuses ($60)
- Century/Yuasa 95Ah Deep Cycle Maintenance Free Battery ($280) with Piranha battery tray ($195) (not shown yet in photos)
- 8B&S cable between main battery, BCDC and Aux Battery ($20)
- 8B&S twin core cable run to rear ($40) of vehicle protected by 30A inline Maxi fuse ($15).
- 2 x 12V sockets in rear cargo area ($30), each protected by individual 10A inline fuses ($10);
- All cable joints & lugs were crimped, soldered, covered in heat shrink and put inside split wiring loom. (~$60)
Total spend (excluding own time of approximately 5 hours) approx. $$1,180.00

Not cheap but I am very happy with the job and looks very professional.... even if I so say myself..... Local installers in Sydney (auto-electricians, ARB, etc.) quoted me over $2k to suppyl and fit this system.

Sorry I didn't take any photos during the installation. I was too focused just getting the job done.







More Photos Below....

[drivesafe]

Hi dCB, I'm a big fan of the 30 amp power poles and have fitted to all my batteries, meters and test equipment, but we use to use and supply them in the 2 way and 4 way panel mounts but the small 30 amp power poles only have to be bumped and they snap off very easily.

[dBC]

I went with Anderson Powerpoles. Gives me 4 outlets in the back, and 4 up front, all in a nice small form-factor.

[2016VX]

I ran mine down the drivers side and put the CIG/Merit in one of these:

[ATTACH=CONFIG]25881[/ATTACH]

Mine sits on top of the Drivers side wheel arch/arm rest as I couldn't bring myself to drill huge holes in the trim!

The other reason I went down drivers side it that the AUX is on that side and I could just run it straight down the body cavity.

Thanks for the response. Yeah I was thinking the same thing. Not sure I want to drill big holes in my new car.

[120D4D]

I ran mine down the drivers side and put the CIG/Merit in one of these:



Mine sits on top of the Drivers side wheel arch/arm rest as I couldn't bring myself to drill huge holes in the trim!

The other reason I went down drivers side it that the AUX is on that side and I could just run it straight down the body cavity.

[2016VX]

Hi Guys,

Just wondering where you have installed your CIG/Merit/Engel sockets in the rear cargo area? I have a 2016 VX and the small vacant storage space on the left hand side that most people seem to be using is actually a rear speaker (and Kakadu I think). Main reason I am asking is so I can determine whether I run the cables down the left hand side or right hand side of the vehicle. I plan on running 8B&S dual core from the Aux battery, through the firewall, down the interior side channel and into a fuse box. It will then split out into 2 x sockets for fridge, etc.

[Stuartm]

Hi all
I have a Ritar RA-12-100(S,12v100AH/10HR) on reading specs it says cycle use 14.6-14.8v(25 deg C) is this suitable for an auxiliary battery and what type of isolator should I use.if used under the bonnet what would be the repercussions if it gets a lot warmer than 25 deg under the bonnet.

[Stuartm]

Duel Battery set up

Hi all
I have a Ritar RA-12-100(S,12v100AH/10HR) on reading specs it says cycle use 14.6-14.8v(25 deg C) is this suitable for an auxiliary battery and what type of isolator should I use.if used under the bonnet what would be the repercussions if it gets a lot warmer than 25 deg under the bonnet.

[Stuartm]

Hi all
I have a Ritar RA-12-100(S,12v100AH/10HR) on reading specs it says cycle use 14.6-14.8v(25 deg C) is this suitable for an auxiliary battery and what type of isolator should I use.if used under the bonnet what would be the repercussions if it gets a lot warmer than 25 deg under the bonnet.

[InnerCityBoy]

I used an after-market clamp with a plastic tray that sits straight in the factory spot ... see attached image (which is the original N70 battery I installed, I have since upgraded to a larger AGM battery).

On the cracked guard issue, from what I have read this was more of an issue with early 150s, the guards in later models were strengthened but like you I don't know how much I've read about this is fact vs. opinion. Overall I decided I didn't need it as my driving is 95% on-road and the off-road I do is usually nothing worse than a gravel road with a camper in tow (so not especially fast or rough). I might have gone for an after-market, braced battery tray if I was regularly driving on dirt and corrugations, or doing a big bash somewhere.

Hope this helps.

[Usernamewill]

Not really, it has a handle on the top so I just slowly slid it in to the spot and fitted a standard battery clamp over it. It was a bit fiddly to get the clamp on because of the tight space but really not that hard. Note I haven't added any after-market battery holder as some do, that might change things if you do.

Sounds easy enough. Did you use an OEM clamp or aftermarket? Also did you brace it to the rad support as some have done? The tray is a tricky one, I wasn't really planning on running one either because from what I've read there hasn't been enough solid reasoning to persuade me to.

IIRC i read in the cracked gaurd thread that there was a design change? But I've skimmed over quite a bit now, and fact and fiction have started to become blurry haha.

[InnerCityBoy]

Also I.C.B, thanks for your input, I'll keep that in mind! Did it give you much grief trying to mount it being that bit bigger?

Not really, it has a handle on the top so I just slowly slid it in to the spot and fitted a standard battery clamp over it. It was a bit fiddly to get the clamp on because of the tight space but really not that hard. Note I haven't added any after-market battery holder as some do, that might change things if you do.