EGR blanking plate to block off or restrict?

[Redsand Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Redsand]

I have done exactly the same as you Poppy Joe. Not easy to see what you are doing and rely a lot on feel. Camera on the iphone was good to check it was in place correctly before tightening the nuts up. Found it easy also to pull the sensor plug that was in the way of the lower right hand side nut. Remember to re-attach it. In the picture attached can see the plug removed and a tiny bit of the blanking plate where it sits under the nuts.

I assume there is a gasket in the position where you slide the blanking plate in?
Is this at risk of damage from trying to slide the plate in?

[stock2014gxl Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close stock2014gxl]

Yep, mine is clean and new, and hopefully now the EGR will stay clean and new as well.

[stock2014gxl Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close stock2014gxl]

I'm not sure there was a gasket. If there was it must have stayed firmly stuck to the block. No leaks when engine running, so I am pretty happy.

[TurboD4D Member Find all posts View Profile Close TurboD4D]

Hi guys. Just started looking into the egr blocking. I have a 120 KDJ and if Im reading right a full block will throw codes. Yep I can drill a 6mm hole to stop the codes but this still lets crap in. I spoke to a guy who I think said do the full block and to use a ECUSHOP Monster Gauge. This will stop the light coming on and automatically wipe the fault code. Anyone tried to use this option???

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

The 7mm hole has proven to work well in reducing the soot & hot exhaust gasses.

This one has a 7mm hole.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EGR-Blank...3D191698030388

Or you can be another to run the 6mm hole.

Anyone got a 5mm? I think that may be for no codes also. Any smaller & I think you may have Christmas early.

[leethal1 Member Find all posts View Profile Close leethal1]

Hey Anthony,

can you help with this one? I have just done my first health check on my car since fitting the blanking plate and the car is showing C1201 & C1452 (not too sure bout this one) code which relates to the engine control system. have you seen this one before? I have a 7mm hole, the injectors were pulled and cleaned, all new seals fitted. I have noticed that when on the injector feedback page the EGR valve shows 0% and target 0% (on my last check at 160000 was 74% at the same coolant temp.)

any info appreciated, there are no lights on the dash and the car runs well.

thanks in advance,

Lee

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Hey Anthony,

can you help with this one? I have just done my first health check on my car since fitting the blanking plate and the car is showing C1201 & C1452 (not too sure bout this one) code which relates to the engine control system. have you seen this one before? I have a 7mm hole, the injectors were pulled and cleaned, all new seals fitted. I have noticed that when on the injector feedback page the EGR valve shows 0% and target 0% (on my last check at 160000 was 74% at the same coolant temp.)

any info appreciated, there are no lights on the dash and the car runs well.

thanks in advance,

Lee

I do this sort of work everyday. I must say I have never had a problem or a engine light with any of these jobs.
I do however help a lot of people with advise, I will get calls weekly a bit like what you describe, so without yet looking up the codes, I will give you the same advise at this point, if you have a problem after the work, it's likely related to the work, something unplugged? Vacuum line off or mixed up? Or something loose & leaking is the usual thoughts. Every time they come back to me after that advise & say all good.

Now I will look at what the codes are

Please p.m me your number I might call you if required.

In regard to the 0%, well that's great, again could be a vacuum line thing.
Or just plain good luck some do it, with or without plate.
As soon as I get a quiet week I'm doing some more playing, particularly with vacuum lines.

I don't think it's related to your codes.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

People, Please put your vehicle details in signature it helps with diagnostics.



Do you have traction control? 150 series?

You may have the dreaded master cylinder problem.
I hope you have warranty.

Accumulator
Pressure switch (PH or PL)
Hydraulic brake booster pump motor

[leethal1 Member Find all posts View Profile Close leethal1]

it's a 10/2009 GXL 150 series, with traction control, car now has 164000 km, had egr cleaned, injectors pulled, cleaned and new seats put in, rockers checked and plate installed at 162000km. this is the first time I have hooked the computer up since the clean, I just wanted to check the feedback values after the work.

I have looked up the 1452 code and the generic term from what I have found is -
C = Chassis Problem
1 = MFG - Manufacturer Specific
4 = Auxiliary Emission Controls
52 = Toyota 52 Fault Code

However tech stream has it as accumulator pressure low.... when i looked at Ryans (aka Rhino) car which had this code as well I assumed it was the brake accumulator, however could this be a vacuum accumulator instead? I have not touched my brakes since 150000 and the code was not present then. The 1452 code appearing after egr mod done just seems a little sus, maybe Toyota's description is out.

there are no lights on to indicate a problem.

attached is a screen shot of the EGR reading, I have taken the car for a drive and the result is the same -

People, Please put your vehicle details in signature it helps with diagnostics.



Do you have traction control? 150 series?

You may have the dreaded master cylinder problem.
I hope you have warranty.

Accumulator
Pressure switch (PH or PL)
Hydraulic brake booster pump motor

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

it's a 10/2009 GXL 150 series, with traction control, car now has 164000 km, had egr cleaned, injectors pulled, cleaned and new seats put in, rockers checked and plate installed at 162000km. this is the first time I have hooked the computer up since the clean, I just wanted to check the feedback values after the work.

I have looked up the 1452 code and the generic term from what I have found is -
C = Chassis Problem
1 = MFG - Manufacturer Specific
4 = Auxiliary Emission Controls
52 = Toyota 52 Fault Code

However tech stream has it as accumulator pressure low.... when i looked at Ryans (aka Rhino) car which had this code as well I assumed it was the brake accumulator, however could this be a vacuum accumulator instead? I have not touched my brakes since 150000 and the code was not present then. The 1452 code appearing after egr mod done just seems a little sus, maybe Toyota's description is out.

there are no lights on to indicate a problem.

attached is a screen shot of the EGR reading, I have taken the car for a drive and the result is the same -
[ATTACH=CONFIG]21473[/ATTACH]

So 2 abnormalities, the egr might be a vacuum line issue.
Check them, down where the inlet manifold support bracket is.
Report if you find one off, etc, because everybody would like that abnormality, see I'm not using the word problem.

I have never had a vehicle with a faulty master cylinder but hear of them a fair bit.
1452 is talking about this.
You don't have had to work on it recently, or use dot4 they just shag out when it suits them.

[leethal1 Member Find all posts View Profile Close leethal1]

Do you know what the 2 small grey things are near the egr valve? Are they filters or 1 way valves, i can not see any issues with the lines however if they are 1 way valves i could see one been put on backwards pretty easy

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Do you know what the 2 small grey things are near the egr valve? Are they filters or 1 way valves, i can not see any issues with the lines however if they are 1 way valves i could see one been put on backwards pretty easy

Need a photo to be clear.

[leethal1 Member Find all posts View Profile Close leethal1]

Need a photo to be clear.

the 2 circled canisters, everything else looks ok, I'll take it back to the workshop that did the work on Monday and ask. I suppose there could be water in a connector somewhere.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]21477[/ATTACH]

the 2 circled canisters, everything else looks ok, I'll take it back to the workshop that did the work on Monday and ask. I suppose there could be water in a connector somewhere.

They are filters. Fine the way they are.

[leethal1 Member Find all posts View Profile Close leethal1]

They are filters. Fine the way they are.

I bled the brakes today, this seems to have cleared both codes, very interesting, however the EGR still remains closed permanently (0% target and 0% actual), no codes to revel in the health check or engine live area. I would love to know how the engine went from an active EGR to a closed one.