I have been reading through hundreds of posts on this but i am still confused as to the link between injector longevity and egr restriction. Can someone explain it simply? Also, what is the simplist way to diy install a restricting plate. My wagon is at 15,000km and if its not a complete mission to install a restrictor i will, otherwise it can wait until the motor hits 120,000km and i will consider it then
There is no link between injector longevity & egr restriction.
The link with egr is, it's wrecking your engine. Including carbonization of the nozzles, therefore contributing to engine damage, holed piston/ catastrophic failure.
Just ripped off the manifold at 104,000kms. My god what a mess. There was At least 5mm of crap lining the inlet ports and that steadily increased to the 10-20mm or so at the elbow at the rear of the engine (start of the intake manifold). Glad I have done it but I would rather sell the car than do that again.
For anybody unsure whether or not to tackle it I would strongly recommend adhering to the old adage "if you have to ask the answer is no". Bastard awkward job pulling the engine out would be quicker.
Just used the parts washer to rinse. It took 5 cans of carby cleaner a load of scrubbing to get the crud out. Nitrile gloves strongly recommended.
Hey Gordon, on my list of jobs to do. Thanks for the honest appraisal of the job and pretty much what I am expecting. Roughly how long did it take to do the entire job?
It took me about 3-4 hours to disassemble. It gets demoralising as you realise you have to pull off more and more parts. A very time consuming step was releasing the connectors from the vacuum assembly that controls the intake bypass butterflies. No clearance and completely blind it was almost a disastrous showstopper. Assembly of that part was very fiddly but not as bad.
Cleaning and reassembly was spread over a few nights after work, took my time and probably about 2-3 hours would get it back together once you've cleaned it. Critical to lay parts down in order of removal to avoid going backwards (my bits were moved around by a curious helpful friend !!!!!).
Prior to this job I was undecided on whether to block the EGR. I've made up my mind now.
150 D4D GX with big tyres, TPMS, Tracklander, GME, Safari breathing straw & super soft squishy custom rear springs.
Oh another thing. There are many moments of "Toyota you have got to be 'ing kidding me how am I supposed to get tools and/or hands in there?!".
I used a Supercheap inspection camera to locate bolts/connectors and also to guide sockets to the right spot. Even the manifold bolts are tucked away neatly and I had to use the holes in the new gasket as a pointer for where to start looking.
I really don't recommend anyone undertake this job. Maybe just fit a bigger turbo instead.
150 D4D GX with big tyres, TPMS, Tracklander, GME, Safari breathing straw & super soft squishy custom rear springs.
im about to buy a 2012 150 gx with 60,000kms on the clock and am worried I will have to remove the manifold and do a clean.. I'm hoping its not bad so I can just block the egr with a full plate, do the coolant bypass, run ozbush's maf to egr bypass, and hook up a scan guage2.
If i was to leave the manifold alone and do these 4 mods, providing there is nothing already wrong with the engine (bar maybe some build up in the manifold), I should be good as gold right? meaning thats the egr taken care of for good?
im about to buy a 2012 150 gx with 60,000kms on the clock and am worried I will have to remove the manifold and do a clean.. I'm hoping its not bad so I can just block the egr with a full plate, do the coolant bypass, run ozbush's maf to egr bypass, and hook up a scan guage2.
If i was to leave the manifold alone and do these 4 mods, providing there is nothing already wrong with the engine (bar maybe some build up in the manifold), I should be good as gold right? meaning thats the egr taken care of for good?
thanks in advance
The manifold should be ok.
Check egr, remove & clean it & fit 7mm plate, allow the turbo dump out backwards.
Coolant bypass is a good option.
So is a scangauge, if you do then run a 6mm plate, you can clear the odd p0400 code if it arises.
Leave Pcv alone.
so your suggesting I don't bother with ozbush electronics and just used the 6 or 7mm holed plate and a scan guage? how big of a job is removing the egr valve? I know its been covered 500000000 times because i have searched, but ALOT of the threads explaining things the pictures that are linked to photobucket accounts and don't work. has anyone got a link to a YouTube video or something similar?
if you were in perth I'd drop it off to you ####, im good with spanners but ive never touched one of these engines, im used to the old 12ht
so your suggesting I don't bother with ozbush electronics and just used the 6 or 7mm holed plate and a scan guage? how big of a job is removing the egr valve? I know its been covered 500000000 times because i have searched, but ALOT of the threads explaining things the pictures that are linked to photobucket accounts and don't work. has anyone got a link to a YouTube video or something similar?
if you were in perth I'd drop it off to you ####, im good with spanners but ive never touched one of these engines, im used to the old 12ht
The 7mm plate works extremely well. 95%+ cleaner.
6mm although it can't get much better & is not required, it would be marginally better.
If you go under 7mm, you may get a fault code. Don't buy a scangauge to go 1mm smaller, but if you have a scangauge or were going to get one, 6mm is marginally better (actual results later this year).
I know the turbo pressure vents backwards through this port so not a fan of a full block.
Others have plumbed it to the air box, it still gets p0400 codes, so waste of time.
The egr clean & plate job is 4 hrs for an expert.
It is difficult.
You can rough & rush it get it done quicker.
If you are good on the tools, like mechanically apt, it will be a breeze.
If you are not apt, it will be one of the biggest headaches you ever had.
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