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cleaning a 150 PRADO FUEL TANK OUT

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  • cleaning a 150 PRADO FUEL TANK OUT

    hi there don't know if this has been done had a look could not find it ,
    This tank is heavy plastic also has no drain plug
    SO PUT $20. worth of 98 octane petrol in to my DIESEL BY MISTAKE
    had to drop the tank down and out most of the hose connection are clip on`s one way or another
    when out you take the hose`s off push the clips back then lift hose connection `straight up , you will find a large white colour screw type cap looks a bit like a flywheel carefully give it a gentle tap with screwdriver & hammer anti clock wise get some one to push the center down while you undo it carefully take it out you have to tilt it side ways as the float is at right angles once out you can see in to the tank fully drain & clean it out with a rag, when reassembling it you will find there is a key lug to locate the center unit get some one to push down on the center unit (as it is sprung loaded ) & screw the cap back on tight (i gave mine a gentle tap to make sure it was tight )took the line off the filter in engine bay and blow it through to clean out just in case any thing got through also cleaned out filter at the same time .
    took 5HRS to do the job all up (bugger to get out ,so much easier to put back )

    Hope this helps someone some time
    Last edited by dingdong; 26-01-2013, 09:45 AM. Reason: spelling mistakes

  • #2
    Do you have the shorty? If not how do you know the petrol only went into the front tank? I am presuming the rear tank is steel and the front tank the plastic one same as the 120!

    Cheers Andrew
    [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

    [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

    [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


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    • #3
      The front plastic tank is a good 4ft 6ins or 1.400.
      as for the rear steel tank also dropped it it was empty so flushed it out any way & replaced it .
      was lucky running sweet as now or though was not happy with myself for making a stupid mistake with bowser handle

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      • #4
        $20 of RON98 is about 12L. I would have just filled the rest with diesel and not worried about it.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by MDS69 View Post
          $20 of RON98 is about 12L. I would have just filled the rest with diesel and not worried about it.
          ...really? In a crd engine?
          2011 150series GXL

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          • #6
            Originally posted by wooley View Post
            ...really? In a crd engine?
            tend to agree Wooley, in an old oiler I would just top it up, but not in a common rail. Especially a 150 that is probably still under warranty.

            Sounds like the tanks are pretty similar to the 120, had the rear tank out of a 120 and thats easy, never had the front tank out though.

            Cheers Andrew
            [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

            [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

            [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


            [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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            • #7
              Originally posted by MDS69 View Post
              $20 of RON98 is about 12L. I would have just filled the rest with diesel and not worried about it.
              Many years ago when I worked for Toyota a leading hand put 5L of petrol in a 75 series diesel Cruiser. We Took off for a test drive and in a very short time it started to splutter and fart and blow lots of smoke (while I chuckled to myself).

              Anyway he drove it back all around a 4km trip, put in about 10L diesel and off we went. Drove like a charm.

              This was pre common rail.

              Hazza
              Silver 120 Series Diesel GXL 2009 with Option Pack 2, king Springs 2" Lift with 'H' front spring, MT ATZ 4-RIB, Dual Battery, Deluxe ARB Bull-bar, Winch, Towbar, Anderson 50 amp plug at the rear, Weather Shields, Bonnet and Head Light Protectors, Rubber Mats inc Cargo mat, UHF Ariel, Portable Uniden UHF plugs into areal, On-board ARB Compressor, Brains Black Box TG150 Protector, Rear Black Duck Seat Covers.

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              • #8
                working with diesel`s for years , cars & 4x4 motors i know from experience what a mess petrol and diesel can make ,
                (a) can go of with a big bang )in common rail as it gets really hot )
                (b) can & will size the motor with in a short distance .
                one chap started to fill 4x4 with unleaded realized stopped so changed over to diesel carried on filling up ten minutes down the road she came to a grinding halt motor sized through him forward now has a very nice scar on his forehead and a new motor ,& don't forget the square tyres
                he was very lucky common rail diesels run very hot hen`s the fuel return cooler `, Have herd of one that exploded .

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by MDS69 View Post
                  $20 of RON98 is about 12L. I would have just filled the rest with diesel and not worried about it.
                  Yeah by the following posts i will also stand corrected i would of thought 12l of diesel in a 150l tank would not have made a difference you could even keep topping up i suppose to dilute it even further

                  I stand corrected
                  "Drive down that track really fast, if something gets in your way turn"

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                  • #10
                    I must admit I was the same as Chester, especially considering the return line from the rail would ensure that the very small amount of unleaded would be well mixed rather than concentrated.

                    Originally posted by chester ver 2.0 View Post
                    Yeah by the following posts i will also stand corrected i would of thought 12l of diesel in a 150l tank would not have made a difference you could even keep topping up i suppose to dilute it even further

                    I stand corrected

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                    • #11
                      How did you find the strainer in the tank? Was it blocked/ dirty at all?

                      I was giving it a go in my 120, sounds the same but gave up on getting the cap off the tank.

                      Ill have another go doing it your way with the screwdriver n hammer, I was a bit wary of doing that.

                      Cheers brad

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                      • #12
                        Tap the teeth anti clock wise it is quite tight , ( get some one to push down on the sender unit as it is spring loaded,) also there are 3 or 4 hook stops on the top of the sender to watch as they stop it from coming undone from vibration,
                        (you only click them over the stop) also as you take it out lift it up & tilt it to the right as the float is off set , you can then get your arm in the tank and wipe it clean & dry , once out the inside of the centre of the sender unit has a bucket like cover over it push the 3 lock tags in just to release it the cover will come off & expose a slug filter . When you put it back together don't over tighten the unit as you will wreck the O ring , PS don't forget to wipe the ring with a drop off diesel it will help it slip as you tighten it. Hope it helps. Dingdong

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                        • #13
                          Thanks for that, was very helpful.
                          Brad

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