Tweet
Originally posted by LeighW
View Post
-
My 2008 GXL update is starting to show Injector #1 feedback value heading south sitting at -2.1 at last test. Budgeting for a new set of injectors in the near future.
[SIZE=2]120 GXL D4D Auto, with a 'List of Wants' greater than the 'List of Needs' greater than the 'List of Haves'
Nissan Patrol: Keeping Bogan's out of Toyota's since 1951[/SIZE] -
Ceramic seals? I thought they were supposed to be gold plated carbon-fibre.Dave
Views expressed are mine alone and are not intended to compromise the integrity of my employer nor offend those who may read such views.
Bugger Bali, get out and see Australia before we sell it all to China.Comment
-
Platinum plated unobtainium actually.My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automaticComment
-
-
Originally posted by Anth120playdo View Post
Bit early to call anything on this really when you dont know what his service history is like...Comment
-
Am glad this can of worms is open still... Basically i have just purchased my 2011, 150 series awaiting delivery - comm rail nightmare stories and all. Nothing audible in the injectors during mechanical inspection and the guy was too aware of the issue having recently worked on one that had gone south. The way i see it now is that one really probably needs to pay special attention to servicing needs of these things. Add to that precautions and vigorous monitoring of known problem parts of the system. I asked the guy who did the inspection about extra filters etc, he confirmed regular changing is never going to hurt of course. I've only driven common rails for work (incl Toyota's 'D4D' hiluxs and cruisers) and never cared much, but this guy also suggested there's some additives that can both increase performance / efficiency and potentially bind up the free water in your 'bad fuel'. Also said he doesn't have any evidence so can't really say with certainty it'd help, but if it helps the performance then why not. One thing i wanted to ask you lot is about these oil catch cans.. Anyone care to explain I'd be appreciative as i think i get their function but don't really know what they are. Likewise im open to any other precautions people take. I don't want to go schitzo paranoid on it but am wanting / willing to do what i can within reason.
Last service was 40,000kms (only ten thousand ago) but no injectors replaced. Guessing i should just keep an eye on the (ear on them?) until the 80,000 when it seems like they should be done anyway?
Cheers all.
Ps - looked at the petrols, ignoring this common rail injector issue, more cons than pros for me in everyday and touring. Small tank for one. Fuel consumption in hard tracks. But thx for the suggestionComment
-
Both the diesel and petrol have 150lt capacityOriginally posted by maliyanjourney View PostOur 6 year old and 3 year old try their hardest to make sure there is no time or money for the other babyComment
-
Stand corrected on that one. Well, stuck with common rail now anyway lolOriginally posted by letsgoplaces View PostComment
-
So guy I've spent the best part of 4 nights til all hours reading through the slinging matches about what's the best way to prevent 'catastrophic' failure in common rail engines. I think i'm not even a quarter of the way to reading everything i can on here. This seemed to have the most useful tips for the older injectors etc, as well as the most slinging: http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...nance-measuresMy truck is in transit to me and so in the meantime I just want to try be clear on my options. Not so much the likelihood of failure because it is difficult to predict, but to be able to minimise the risk. In a nut shell (i know there is know such thing as this with these but we persist), correct me if i'm wrong:
* I have a 150 series GX. This by rights should have the modern injectors, seats and seals that are most suited to our low sulphur diesel, right?
* There is no way to know if I didn't get lumped with the last of the old non-DLC injectors or the non-coated seats until it's time to pull the injectors out, right? And naturally if i did then i need to replace them quick smart.
*Even the DLC and piezo injectors are consumable and I can expect to need to replace them anywhere around 120,000km?
* The best way to keep an 'eye' on their condition is to run my own injector feedback test to assess their condition quite simply at my own leisure, right?
* I should obviously take major notice of any rattling, for obvious reasons.
* I see on the 120 series forum that blow-by (fuel reaching the sump) can be visually checked by looking for build-up on the oil filter screen with a camera during the 5000 km oil change. Is this still an issue with the 150's (actually i presume it's injector/seat/seal related rather than series)? Do i really need an oil catch can, and pls anyone explain its function (i'm only guessing it catches fuel in the sump?? Go easy i'm new to this and don;t have a strong mechanical background, well diesel anyway).
*Low cetane standards in our low sulphur diesel appears is a problem in all but BP outlets. I don;t actually have a single BP within 50km of me so i'm getting a Caltex card. Given their minimum cetane is lower than many promote as what they'd accept, should i bit the bullet and use a cetane boosting diesel additive (i costed it to be around $10/fill-up)?
*Low cetane levels and water condensation appear to be the major fuel issues that cause injector problems even in the most modern common-rails? So, a high flow rate, low micron second filter in front of the factory fitted one is still a good idea? If so 2 microns seems to make the most sense to me given it's ability to filter finer crud, and i presume some of those Racor filters are still rated well enough to cope with the required flow rate? Or should i just stick with a 10 micron.
* I will be traveling in sub-zero temps over winter. I will look for alpine diesel, and be prepared to need to use an additive like Rox to lower the cloud point of standard diesel if that's what i'm carrying. I'm curious to know if i do however get wax crystals clogging the filter (filters?) is there likely to be any issue with the injectors after they melt, and of course do i need to clean/replace the filter?
One thing i read was interesting about always keeping your tank as full as possible to reduce condensation. Thoughts? Makes kind of sense. Of course other things like trying only to use high volume outlets, never filling up when the truck is pumping the diesel into the underground reservoirs, etc etc all make sense to me too. Am i missing anything?
If/when more comes to mind 'irl be bark' ;-)Comment
-
Gday maliyanjourney
This is absolutely correct!Originally posted by maliyanjourney View Post
Wrong!.. Yours is the new 150 series and the "old non-DLC injectors" was "NOT" introduced to your model and "IF" you managed to get old type seating washers there is simple checks if those suckers leak!Originally posted by maliyanjourney View Post
This is a possibility but if in range leave them alone!... They are a moving part that move/respond quicker than the old solenoid type but still wear if exposed to nasty s.Originally posted by maliyanjourney View Post
Mmmmm? ... Depends if you want to get caught up on the frenzy train or not!... It is not as bad as made out!... Just have to make sure that the minority do not dominate the majority!!!Originally posted by maliyanjourney View Post
The 150 "IS" basically the same engine as the 120 but faster responding injectors and re-located inter-cooler for emissions when in slow traffic ect so here the the basic early warning signs to look-out for/ keep an eye on!
Click link below!
diesel rattle in D4D Prado
If still not convinced then compare the volume of units to the failure rate!
Click link below!
My D4D died
Now this thread will heat up for sure!.... Lol
Wow!!... Respect for the observation for the oil-pick-up fouling!... Yes!.. Kept simple the seating washer causes the pick-up to foul!Originally posted by maliyanjourney View Post
"YES" ... It is highly recommended as this will catch a large majority of the Vaporised oil vapor before it turns back into its original oil state when cooled in the inter-cooler and then that gets sucked into the intake manifold then is turned into a sticky black sludge as it passes over the EGR valve with the exhaust sooty gases.Originally posted by maliyanjourney View Post
Click link below!
Blocking EGR
To be honest if you have time you should read that whole thread in its entirety as it is a kak in my opinion and you will learn heaps from it!
Originally posted by maliyanjourney View Post
This is not true as you need to read the insy winsy small print on the BP web sight!.. Its basically all the same stuff right accross the bored!
They all run 5% bio and all fluctuate with there cetain levels
Click links below!
#1 Best Diesel Fuel?
#2 Best Diesel Fuel?
I dont waste fuel carrying fuel & to date had no water issues in my fuel!.. Your choice on that one!Originally posted by maliyanjourney View Post
Same goes with the extra filters as i still run stock and no probs but would sway more towards a glass water trap!... Now this will spark a convo for sure!!.. Lol
(Lol as in Laugh Out Loud & not Lots Of Love!!).
Cheers
Comment
-
Thanks for the input SWR. Balanced compared to the majority of stuff I've read. I'll probably err on the side of caution over laxity but my mind is a bit more at ease.
Range checks on the injectors, oil catch can and semiregular checks on the oil pickup screen, mqybe the odd cetane booster at the diesel pump. And the obvious watching for smoke/listen for rattles. Ought to keep me outof trouble then?! LOL (take it whichever way u like.. But I'll stick with the laughs!) ;-)
Thought it might 'heat up' too as you say.. Must've been done to death in that 120 thread. Thanks again anyway mate. It's been an informative process anywayComment
-
Oh forgot.. Like the glass water trap too rather than extra filter. CheersComment
Comment