Stall recovery

[Kingy 150 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Kingy 150]

Stall recovery. All the text books say that you should turn the key with the clutch out for a stall recovery. How do you do this in a manual 150 Prado with the ignition inhibitor switch on the clutch?

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Stall stops & starts yes well have you tried pushing the clutch a little?
It may allow the crank without disengaging......?
If not you cannot unless you are prepared to trick the sensor either temporary or permanently.

[DGW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close DGW]

Having just been through this a month or so back with driver training in a local 4wd club, I was labelled a trouble maker for not following the procedure .

From memory and apparently this is the approved association procedure. Stall, right foot on foot brake, engage hand brake, check surroundings etc, when clear clutch in and select reverse, clutch out.

After doing this step, this is where manual 150 owners break the rules, as the engine wont start unless the clutch if fully depressed (yes you can trick the sensor, I remember reading on here about someone who did that permanently).

What the procedure became for me was, right foot is still on foot brake, release the hand brake, depress the clutch to start the engine and slowly release the clutch until you feel it starting to load up and at that point, fully release both clutch and foot brake at the same time. Once this had been done a couple of times, it did felt like to a proper stall start.

Hope this makes sense and helps or at least adds to the discussion.

[barajak Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close barajak]

Good work DGW. Unfortunately if you are on the limits of traction, pushing the clutch in would have you sliding backwards out of control. Sounds like you need a switch to bypass the sensor or as suggested permanently bypass the sensor. And I thought autos were hard work on steep slopes.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

You forgot the bit about shifting into low range for a proper stall recovery. A lot of the training centres around old-school manual vehicles. They haven't kept up with the technology and autos. Even Rodeos and Colorados need the clutch in so the electronic transfer will operate. Much of the gizmos for keeping you safe on the sealed roads creates issues when venturing out into the rough. If you have hill descent then you probably wouldn't need to do the reverse stall recovery technique. And prior to backing out, the book also lets you consider shifting to low range and continuing in upwards on your journey if that is practical.

[DGW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close DGW]

Hi Barajack, whether you have a modern manual or not, the clutch still has to be depressed to get reverse. If holding your foot on the foot brake, while selecting reverse, is not going to stop you sliding backwards, you would have been sliding back down a long time before then.....

[DGW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close DGW]

Hi Bushbasher, point taken about low range. I made an assumption (which is never good) that the entire process was being done on low range. Also so agree the training courses are very out dated compared to the new technology available in new vehicles but still very worthwhile.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Hi Barajack, whether you have a modern manual or not, the clutch still has to be depressed to get reverse. If holding your foot on the foot brake, while selecting reverse, is not going to stop you sliding backwards, you would have been sliding back down a long time before then.....

I think as the thread is named "stall recovery" Barajak was explaining, in slippery "limits of traction" about the correct stall start procedure. It's just the smoothest most gentle way to get going again. Same as stopping, using the diesel & compression to stop, simply switch it off.
Doing it properly, you have gently released the foot brake before you crank it, clutch already out.

[barajak Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close barajak]

Hi Barajack, whether you have a modern manual or not, the clutch still has to be depressed to get reverse. If holding your foot on the foot brake, while selecting reverse, is not going to stop you sliding backwards, you would have been sliding back down a long time before then.....

Very true, i'll have a go this weekend and let you know how it goes. Starting the engine and releasing the clutch will give you more to do when you are already under pressure but it should not be to hard to handle. This sequence may cause the vehicle to start back down a little quicker than starting clutch out but this should be able to be compensated with the brake pedal.

[DGW Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close DGW]

Hi Barajack,

After owning manual 4wd's for around 28 years, changing the process for a stall start in the 150 has been interesting to say the least. I haven't had to do this under any great pressure but having practiced this process a few times over the last couple of years, I know I will remember it when I curse that switch on the clutch pedal

I will be really interested to hear your thoughts on it, as it does feel very different to what I have always done. Also, the more you can load the clutch against the brake before letting both the clutch and brake off together, the better it works.

[Bushbasher Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Bushbasher]

You blokes with your fancy 150s and all the electronic wizardry should be able to slide backwards in angel gear, rip on the handbrake, pull a 180, drop the clutch and ease down the hill effortlessly. Something for us mere 120 owners to marvel at and take photos of.

[Symo Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close Symo]

Does DAC work in reverse L4 too?

[ptleee Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close ptleee]

I had a similar issue before driver training and fitted an override switch. Not hard to do at all. The switch for the clutch pedal is easy to find and work with. Feel free to zap me a message if anybody needs some details.

[shodown Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close shodown]

I had a similar issue before driver training and fitted an override switch. Not hard to do at all. The switch for the clutch pedal is easy to find and work with. Feel free to zap me a message if anybody needs some details.

PM'ed

[barajak Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close barajak]

Hi Barajack,

After owning manual 4wd's for around 28 years, changing the process for a stall start in the 150 has been interesting to say the least. I haven't had to do this under any great pressure but having practiced this process a few times over the last couple of years, I know I will remember it when I curse that switch on the clutch pedal

I will be really interested to hear your thoughts on it, as it does feel very different to what I have always done. Also, the more you can load the clutch against the brake before letting both the clutch and brake off together, the better it works.

Doing the engine restart after selecting reverse is no big deal and we did load the clutch up before easing the brake off. This pulled the revs down to near stall and prevented the surge downhill that could be expected otherwise. Worked fine on trial and on further attempts. I would not bother with a by-pass switch if I was getting a manual vehicle with clutch switch.