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Yep, just got quoted $3k by Toyota to repair the leak in the pipe. They put the blame straight on the Outback battery tray. I had a bad feeling when I was installing it, but it last about 7 years.
Any components under stress are gonna cause stress. I'm gonna take the pipe out, shape and repair it.
P.S. I have just had a look to see how to get that pipe removed and yep, it's worth the 3K. That pipe travels the length of the car, over exhaust brackets. etc.
I have been shown the leak on mine and it's in the engine bay. Following the pipe that has been moved, just past a 5mm pipe projecting upward (under the brake fluid reservoir is a fitting (the one pipe fits into the other) and that's where it's leaking. Very tight location.
How I'm going to fix it, I still don't know, but as others have said before, it's a job that requires expletives. I'm going to explore the chemical welding options,
Update: ################################################## ################################################## ############
Finally purchased the A/C pipe from Toyota. I'm sure it would have been cheap through Amaysin but for that kind of money I wasn't going to chance it.
I was told by some aircon guys that welding did not last and they would not warrant any repair job, so I bought the pipe and did it myself.
The part number for the late 2013 VX model with the teardrop headlamps dual A/C model is 8871060A091 and it's referenced as "tube & accessory" and I paid $790. I got the 'O' rings as well but it was supplied with the pipe. I would recommend using the VIN number as the vehicle reference especially for this kind of money.
The job is a bit tricky but it can be done. The joint for the pipe is about in line with the catalytic converter, behind the heat shield and it requires loosening a few things along the way. I tried to remove the heat shield but the bolt was rusted on and the stud broke off, so just bend it a little. (another job putting a bolt through inside, to replace the stud, otherwise that rattle would drive me even crazier. It went right next to what i think is the stereo amplifier harness, lucky I lifted the seat and was able to check through the carpet flap before I started drilling and tapping or it could have been another massive job)
Battery tray, airbox and turbo intake pipe (cover the turbo opening) need to removed, the white heater hose support as well as the 2 heater hoses need to be loosened and disconnected.
I ended loosening the rest of the a/c pipe up to the muffler.
The a/c hose clamps I loosened with a screwdriver, I tried the "nails and wire" tricks but, in the end, just took the a/c guys advise and used the screwdriver. The proper tool was tool expensive for 3 clamps (about $100 in total from the US) and the price of the clamps were $44 for the larger one and $11 for the smaller ones from Toyota and locally available, in case they got damaged.
The pipe connection under the car (under the heatshied) has 2x 10mm nuts securing it, disconnect.
The front of the pipe has a connection into the condenser and I removed the grill shroud to confirm the play, but it seemed to be enough. Once that is disconnected it's a matter of pulling the pipe forward.
The right front wheel rear splash guard needs to be removed to access the pipes and a bit of fiddling is required to get these pipes under the other 2 without breaking anything. Then it's a matter of fiddling to get the hose out as the steering shaft is in the way but persist. The steering shaft does not need to come out.
When it came to replacing. I trimmed the "Outback" battery tray and reposition the rubber mounting so I would not stress the pipe. I have a 75Ah under the bonnet and it fits snug. I paid another $300 to regas and finally end this chapter.
I hope this helps
Any components under stress are gonna cause stress. I'm gonna take the pipe out, shape and repair it.
P.S. I have just had a look to see how to get that pipe removed and yep, it's worth the 3K. That pipe travels the length of the car, over exhaust brackets. etc.
I have been shown the leak on mine and it's in the engine bay. Following the pipe that has been moved, just past a 5mm pipe projecting upward (under the brake fluid reservoir is a fitting (the one pipe fits into the other) and that's where it's leaking. Very tight location.
How I'm going to fix it, I still don't know, but as others have said before, it's a job that requires expletives. I'm going to explore the chemical welding options,
Update: ################################################## ################################################## ############
Finally purchased the A/C pipe from Toyota. I'm sure it would have been cheap through Amaysin but for that kind of money I wasn't going to chance it.
I was told by some aircon guys that welding did not last and they would not warrant any repair job, so I bought the pipe and did it myself.
The part number for the late 2013 VX model with the teardrop headlamps dual A/C model is 8871060A091 and it's referenced as "tube & accessory" and I paid $790. I got the 'O' rings as well but it was supplied with the pipe. I would recommend using the VIN number as the vehicle reference especially for this kind of money.
The job is a bit tricky but it can be done. The joint for the pipe is about in line with the catalytic converter, behind the heat shield and it requires loosening a few things along the way. I tried to remove the heat shield but the bolt was rusted on and the stud broke off, so just bend it a little. (another job putting a bolt through inside, to replace the stud, otherwise that rattle would drive me even crazier. It went right next to what i think is the stereo amplifier harness, lucky I lifted the seat and was able to check through the carpet flap before I started drilling and tapping or it could have been another massive job)
Battery tray, airbox and turbo intake pipe (cover the turbo opening) need to removed, the white heater hose support as well as the 2 heater hoses need to be loosened and disconnected.
I ended loosening the rest of the a/c pipe up to the muffler.
The a/c hose clamps I loosened with a screwdriver, I tried the "nails and wire" tricks but, in the end, just took the a/c guys advise and used the screwdriver. The proper tool was tool expensive for 3 clamps (about $100 in total from the US) and the price of the clamps were $44 for the larger one and $11 for the smaller ones from Toyota and locally available, in case they got damaged.
The pipe connection under the car (under the heatshied) has 2x 10mm nuts securing it, disconnect.
The front of the pipe has a connection into the condenser and I removed the grill shroud to confirm the play, but it seemed to be enough. Once that is disconnected it's a matter of pulling the pipe forward.
The right front wheel rear splash guard needs to be removed to access the pipes and a bit of fiddling is required to get these pipes under the other 2 without breaking anything. Then it's a matter of fiddling to get the hose out as the steering shaft is in the way but persist. The steering shaft does not need to come out.
When it came to replacing. I trimmed the "Outback" battery tray and reposition the rubber mounting so I would not stress the pipe. I have a 75Ah under the bonnet and it fits snug. I paid another $300 to regas and finally end this chapter.
I hope this helps
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