Help I am having problems removing my front struts

[WDTP Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close WDTP]

I am part way through my suspension upgrade and I am a little bit stuck on how to remove the front struts. I have access to a strut press through a friend so I wish to remove the spring strut assembly complete. I also have a Toyota manual and I have been following the section "front shock absorber >removal" following the steps for my non KDSS car.

As instructed I have removed the front stabiliser bar, removed the lower bolt and remove the three nuts on top of the strut. I have a loose shock absorber and was able to get the bottom part out of its mounting. The next step in the manual is "Remove the front sick absorber with spring", seems simple enough but I can't work out how to position things to get it out. It appears that it has to drop down between the drive shaft and the steering linkage but I can't get it to fit through the gap.

Is there any tricks? Do you lever the suspension down, jack it up, turn the steering left or right? I have tried every which way and it doesn't come out.

Sorry if this is covered elsewhere I did spend quite a while with the search tool but I couldn't find an answer.

Greg

[AJ120 Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close AJ120]

On the 120 series there are 2 bolts underneath the stub axle, remove those and you have enough room to get the strut out as you described, not sure if the 150 is the same but suspect it would be.

Cheers Andrew

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Follow this procedure
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ade-for-Grande

[WDTP Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close WDTP]

On the 120 series there are 2 bolts underneath the stub axle, remove those and you have enough room to get the strut out as you described, not sure if the 150 is the same but suspect it would be.

Just went and had a look, yes there are two large bolts underneath. They hold the lower ball joint onto the lower control arm. It looks like removing them will allow the hub and lower arm to separate, I only need a few more mm.

The other idea that I had was to disconnect the tie rod end, not sure if my ball joint tool is up to the task and I have never been any good with the whack it hard on the side technique.

Two ideas for tomorrow, thanks

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Follow this procedure
http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...ade-for-Grande

That's a very interesting technique and one that would probably work in the bush as well. I have gone a bit far down my current path to start this one.

I guess I am rather perplexed at the failing of the manual, it has been very good on other things.

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Loosen the bolt of the LCA at the chassis end, where the alignment adjusters are. Then remove the 2 bolts under the LCA mentioned above and the LCA will swing down to allow the strut to be removed.

[WDTP Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close WDTP]

On the 120 series there are 2 bolts underneath the stub axle, remove those and you have enough room to get the strut out as you described, not sure if the 150 is the same but suspect it would be.

Thanks Andrew your suggested technique works well.

My next surprise is that the lengths of the steel bush in the lower parts of the shocker are different. The factory one is about 41.5 mm long the Bilstien one is about 39.5 mm long. I guess a 2mm thick washer will fill the gap.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Sorry I didn't see earlier.
Yes. All you had to do was remove the tie rid ends.
No need to remove the lower section.
If anyone ever fits up prado front suspension with too much travel, you need to loosen the upper ball joint to let it come down more.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Thanks Andrew your suggested technique works well.

My next surprise is that the lengths of the steel bush in the lower parts of the shocker are different. The factory one is about 41.5 mm long the Bilstien one is about 39.5 mm long. I guess a 2mm thick washer will fill the gap.

Well being shorter is not ideal. I think it will crush when you tighten it.
Tighten it on the floor last! Not while its jacked up, you may twist the bush too much (30% max) or cause side wear on the shaft.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

When you want to pop the tie rid end out:

Remove the nut & refit upside down, flush with end of thread, to protect thread & nut.
Use big hammer.
Be care full not to hit rubber boot.
Anything from a few to 20 good hits in the right foot on the cast stub, never hit tie rod end.
Remove nut & the you can get your strut out.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

I highly recommend the use of a heavy duty spring compressor like the branick 7400.
Not only for safety.
By compressing such heavy springs into a small place, using hooks, it's possible you are over compressing less areas of spring.
I have seen ppl do this & it crushes the spring. Not good.
I use the branick & put the 3 supports on the top hat, = more spring area to compress.

Also take the time to line up the top & bottom 100% it ill make it so much easier to slip the struts in & you won't need to twist & risk damaging your lower bushes.

[AJ120 Out of control poster! Find all posts View Profile Close AJ120]

I must have had Prado struts in and out 2 dozen times, never removed the tie rod end and never belted anything with a big hammer.

Cheers Andrew

[WDTP Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close WDTP]

Well being shorter is not ideal. I think it will crush when you tighten it.
Tighten it on the floor last! Not while its jacked up, you may twist the bush too much (30% max) or cause side wear on the shaft.

I tried tightening it and it did not crush, you could still lever the shocker from side to side so the tube through the bush wasn't being held tight. I ended up inserting a 2.5mm washer into the gap, it then locked up tight.

Yes I knew to tighten it on the ground, but thanks for the reminder.

[WDTP Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close WDTP]

I highly recommend the use of a heavy duty spring compressor like the branick 7400.
Not only for safety.
By compressing such heavy springs into a small place, using hooks, it's possible you are over compressing less areas of spring.
I have seen ppl do this & it crushes the spring. Not good.
I use the branick & put the 3 supports on the top hat, = more spring area to compress.

Also take the time to line up the top & bottom 100% it ill make it so much easier to slip the struts in & you won't need to twist & risk damaging your lower bushes.

I totally agree, I don't think you could safely use hook compressors, the spring diameter is tool small.

I had access to a 25 Tonne press (I did need that much :-) with custom built press plates. Very safe and very easy.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

I must have had Prado struts in and out 2 dozen times, never removed the tie rod end and never belted anything with a big hammer.

Cheers Andrew

Sweet, why have you r & r so many?

See so many different ways to do things, the technicians way in workshops with tools & Equiptment and of corse the DIY way.
We tech's usually remove those bottom bolts when a driveshaft or similar work needs to be done.
On many cars they are not there, that's why it's not the usual procedure.