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Am i bleeding my brakes wrong...2001 TX Prado

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  • Am i bleeding my brakes wrong...2001 TX Prado

    G'day, i have just changed the front pads on my prado. Got the bendix 4wd type, as heard there pretty good.

    Had quite a few issues along the way, such as finding some twisted wheel studs etc.

    anyway, got over that issue, put both sets of pads in and now want to flush the brake fluid.

    I have clearly stuffed up, as when i put the pads in i needed to loosen the nipple to push the brake pistons in. So....i bled these first, and took out quite a bit of fluid, but only got down to just on the minimum mark on the reservoir.

    Did the front too first, then thought i'll do the "normal" way, and start again at the back left and go right around all 4.

    But when i started at the rear left i undid the nipple, pushed the peddle, but nothing came out....and the peddle didnt seem to want to go all the way down, as i hadnt actually opened the nipple. So i opened it up a bit more, and same thing. Took the nipple out, thinking it may be clogged, put my foot on the peddle, and fluid leaked out, but peddle still felt the same....

    Is there a different procedure for doing the rear wheels? the fronts i had no problems with.

    I read somewhere that on a 100 series cruiser that the rears you just put the ignition on, and the ABS will push the fluid out. Is this the same for the TX prado, as it has the ABS and traction control stuff.

    I have taken it for a drive, and the brakes seem to work, but no better than before.

    thanks.

    Crash
    2001 Toyota Prado TX, 3 Litre Auto, Yokohama GO12's, factory bullbar.

    Wish List : Snorkel, 2.5 inch lift, cargo barrier, 3/4 roof rack, rear drawer system.......and lots and lots of time away!

  • #2
    For anyone interested, i worked it out.

    Open bleed nipple, turn on ignition and then pump brakes.

    For some reason doenst need to be done for the front, just the rear.
    2001 Toyota Prado TX, 3 Litre Auto, Yokohama GO12's, factory bullbar.

    Wish List : Snorkel, 2.5 inch lift, cargo barrier, 3/4 roof rack, rear drawer system.......and lots and lots of time away!

    Comment


    • #3
      If doing a fluid flush just nip off all the nipples and let gravity be your friend make sure the reservoir is always topped up. Tighten up once clean fulid runs through then bleed but you should not find any air in the system.

      Comment


      • #4
        Sorry I didn't see your question.
        Yes if you have that type of master cylinder you need to leave ignition on.

        With a standard vacuum boosted master cylinder I recommend gravity bleeding, but sometimes pumping is necessary.
        It's always a good idea to remove nipples one by one and clean the crap out while gravity is working.
        Love cleaning nipples & pumping.

        Good to hear you got it all sorted, after all with brakes it may be a matter of life or death.......

        Comment

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