95s Rear brakes, HELP!

[jcas24 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close jcas24]

Ok so I thought I would investigate a noise in the rear brakes after a few weeks ( I don't drive it all the time so I forget about it) only to find the rear pads (drivers side) worn down to the indicator on one side and metal on the other ops: In previous cars the indicator tab would let out a scream under brakes but I just thought it was full of crap from off roading.



Anyways pulled off the disc cause it will need machining to find another drum style floating calipers inside and behind the brake disc.



Anyways I looked on the bendix parts cat. and only found one type of rear pads (DB1200, same as Landcruiser 120's, 80's, 75's and 105's)
The 75/80s Landcruisers have a part number for a Park Brake, but the Prado's dont.

Can anyone help or explain what the hell is going on here. Hopefully I can get it all back together tomorrow.

Cheerio

Joel

[MickL Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close MickL]

Re: 95s Rear brakes, HELP!

to find another drum style floating calipers inside and behind the brake disc.

This is the handbrake. They should last the life of the vehicle (Unless you do a lot of handbrake turns :twisted: )
Looking at your pictures the shoes look like they have a little bit of meat left in them, but it's hard to be sure.

Anyways I looked on the bendix parts cat. and only found one type of rear pads (DB1200, same as Landcruiser 120's, 80's, 75's and 105's)

I imagine that the park brake shoes would be a low turn over item and Bendix may not do them. May be worth a call to them just to make sure the cataloge is not out dated.

If you need to change them then original may be your only option. My guess is around $180 the lot from Toyota... lets see how close I am if you get a price. :wink:

Part # are LH No 1 46580-60060 and LH No2 46550-60070
RH No 1 46540-60060 and RH No2 46550-60070
I double checked... that's three part numbers for 4 shoes. Parts listing is dated from 2000 but I imagine numbers would stay the same over time.


Mick

[jcas24 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close jcas24]

Re: 95s Rear brakes, HELP!

Thanks alot Mick. I was confident that the drum style pads were for the handbrake but was confused when there was no part number for them. They are pretty dirty and handbrake doesn't really work as it needs a ton of adjustment. I think its time I invest in a service manual for the amount of work I do (service wise) would be worth every penny.

I'll ring toyota tomorrow for prices.

Thanks again Mate.

Joel

[Mallory Black Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mallory Black]

Re: 95s Rear brakes, HELP!

Got 40,000 k out of my rear shoes, included about 8 long beach driven holidays and numerous day beach trips.
Same thing happened to my wear screamers, the dealer who fitted the pads just before I bought the car put them on the wrong side (topside) and they never squealed like they were meant to.
My Gregory's manual shows that they should be on the bottom side of the pad, or the side that points in the direction of wheel rotation.
The only time my car's seen a dealer since is for the back axle recall and they managed to bust the plastic shield for the fuel filter under the LHS passenger side.
Just one more of the reasons why I dont trust dealers

[Mallory Black Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mallory Black]

Re: 95s Rear brakes, HELP!

PS Joel I didn't see a jack stand under that back axle. if that's the case never ever trust a hydraulic jack my friend.
I've seen too many accidents from this and the results are never pretty

[jcas24 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close jcas24]

Re: 95s Rear brakes, HELP!

PS Joel I didn't see a jack stand under that back axle. if that's the case never ever trust a hydraulic jack my friend.
I've seen too many accidents from this and the results are never pretty

thats why I didn't get under the car, im not that silly.

[Yowie in Oz Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Yowie in Oz]

Re: 95s Rear brakes, HELP!

I need to adjust my handbrake about once a month due to the fact that when 4WDing in the mud and clay, dirt and other foreign matter get inside the drum causing the handbrake to be useless. It's a Toyota thing I think. My rear pads were replaced not long ago, but am dire straights for some new rotors. The brake screamers never worked on mine at all, and I was more then ticked off to see my rotors and pads chewed out. Never the less, I will be checking more often now. Was thinking about sorting slotted rotors, maybe that will help get the mud and crap out.

Yowie

[jcas24 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close jcas24]

Re: 95s Rear brakes, HELP!

when I adjusted them it was at the shoe, which worked but it still wasnt perfect. The other day I adjusted the cable at the lever end and its made a world of difference.

[Derb Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Derb]

Re: 95s Rear brakes, HELP!

Hi Fellas. I have found out over the years that you get pretty much what you pay for in parts. As a mechanic in an earlier life, I used to shop around and check all of the prices of pirate parts factors and inevitably brought aftermarket parts. And just as inevitably I would end up kicking myself for not going straight to the dealer and buying the original component. Toyota clutch and brake parts perform damn well as a whole. Expensive they can be but also good quality. My son is a Toyota mechanic and often passes on horror stories they end up salvaging after home mechanics have fitted cheap parts. I would be tending to use off the shelf genuine brake parts.

[Derb Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Derb]

Re: 95s Rear brakes, HELP!

Hi Fella's. Just replaced my rear handbrake shoes and axle seals on the Prado. Made my eyes water somewhat. Thanks for the part no.s Mick! Was strange having one set of two shoes and 1 each of 2 different shoes. $75-00nz x 3 = Ouch (I am used to paying around $80-00nz for a set of 4 shoes). and $45-00nz each for the axle seals. T'was plenty of meat left on the old ones also but tacky with oil. I had a look around but couldn't find aftermarket shoes and as it is a bit of a mission doing the seals, I stuck with original. Next job is now the clutch - not looking foward to the dual mass scenario. Cheers.

[Mefestofel Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Mefestofel]

Re: 95s Rear brakes, HELP!

Ok so I thought I would investigate a noise in the rear brakes after a few weeks ( I don't drive it all the time so I forget about it) only to find the rear pads (drivers side) worn down to the indicator on one side and metal on the other ops: In previous cars the indicator tab would let out a scream under brakes but I just thought it was full of crap from off roading.

Can anyone help or explain what the hell is going on here. Hopefully I can get it all back together tomorrow.

Cheerio

Joel

Joel,

Here is the picture of rear hand-brake.



Thank you.

Maxim

[blackdoggriffon1976 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close blackdoggriffon1976]

Ok so I thought I would investigate a noise in the rear brakes after a few weeks ( I don't drive it all the time so I forget about it) only to find the rear pads (drivers side) worn down to the indicator on one side and metal on the other ops: In previous cars the indicator tab would let out a scream under brakes but I just thought it was full of crap from off roading.



Anyways pulled off the disc cause it will need machining to find another drum style floating calipers inside and behind the brake disc.



Anyways I looked on the bendix parts cat. and only found one type of rear pads (DB1200, same as Landcruiser 120's, 80's, 75's and 105's)
The 75/80s Landcruisers have a part number for a Park Brake, but the Prado's dont.

Can anyone help or explain what the hell is going on here. Hopefully I can get it all back together tomorrow.

Cheerio

Joel

I just pulled my whole system down to replace all four rotors and associated pads, because i noticed the rear discs were wearing very oddly.

Anyhow my rear pads were worn almost to the metal on one side of the left rear disc and only halfway on the other. At reassembly, I found that one of the caliper dust boots was missing (half the size of a 5 cent piece) and that water had seized the caliper such that it would not compress on one side.

As it turns out, this one 50 cent rubber part (and the absent brake squeal indicators) cost me the rotors, pads handbrake shoes and caliper.

A good idea to go out and check!

[Bounder Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Bounder]

Guys the handbrake on the 90 series is a known weak point, adjusting the cable at the lever doesn't solve the problem at the other end.
One of the UK forums has a great writeup on how to fix and adjust the whole shebang.
I'll post the link here so you can have a look yourselves.

[pcambell1732 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close pcambell1732]

Guys - Found this tread a bit too late so I'm Xposting here - juc33_prado was kind enough to point out the error of my ways (thanks!).

2nd post here guys - hoping to help someone out thats still working on their 90s (and seeking some additional advice)

My problem: The notoriously bad Prado 90 handbrake began failing to hold my Prado in place on slight inclines, forcing me to keep it in gear and putting all the pressure on my 1st gear - not ideal. I decided to have a go at fixing it myself.

Pictures with step-by-step (to the best of my ability) here - http://imgur.com/a/SIeHg

I am STILL experiencing issues with the handbrake. Before I went at it myself, I took it to a mechanic to get an opinion and I was told the brake shoes were worn down to the metal/indicator. You can see in the pics above this is definitely not the case. Im at a loss for what else to do and looking for some advice from those much more experienced than me.

When I parked on a hill and engaged the handbrake, the tension was holding better than before, but still rolling forward/backwards. I decided to apply more pressure to the leaver (past 6 clicks) and felt a deep "thud" almost like tension was releasing somewhere inside the assembly. My best guess is the star wheel was too tight and the additional pressure caused it to fail, but I'm not sure. Have any of you experienced this before?

The last thing I will try, which I didn't have time to do over the weekend, is to adjust the bell crank on the backing plate. if anyone has some advice on this area please let me know.

Thanks for reading and looking forward to your comments!