Step 1 - don't open the drain until you get the filler out, otherwise you are stranded.
Step 2 - the filler points forward and is a bugger to get out. Prepare yourself mentally for a good fight.
Step 3 - go to a reputable store and buy a good quality 10 mm hex key in a 3/8" drive socket,
and if you've not got one get a 3/8" drive breaker bar, a really high quality one,
not the rubbish that comes in the cheap socket sets, this a is a 4WD, not a slot car.
A ratchet may not fit and they are weaker as well, I tried and failed with a racthet.
Step 4 - lie under car with your head between the engine sump and the steering rack and stick your fingers up
and poke the hex socket into the hole; attach breaker bar and push upwards to rotate the socket anti-clockwise.
Pushing upwards works best as you brace yourself against the ground. Remove filler plug.
Chances are the mechanics haven't opened this either, it takes a lot of force. Cheap and crappy tools may not be up to the task.
If you can't get it out the consider giving up.
Step 5 - open the drain and catch the old oil. Replace drain plug!!!. Do not view the amount of oil that came out as an indication of what needs to go back in, it probably was not full.
Step 6 - refill using a tube running down from the engine bay, or a proper oil filler gun. Well worth the investment with 2 diffs, a transfer case and a gearbox to fill. Note the oil is different to the transfer case and different ot the rear diff. Get the right oil and get enough oil! One of the US oil brands makes nice 2.5 litre jars, or go halves with a friend. One litre won't be enough as you will spill about 1/2 litre in the process. Standing the oil in the sun for an hour makes it flow better and makes the job easier.
Step 7 - make sure the oil flows out of the filler when the diff is full - do not underfill. Put some anti-seize on the thread to make next time easier and replace filler plug to somewhere near correct torque.
I did this task successfully as I refused to accept defeat, but there is little or no working room between the front diff and the sump, the secret was the 3/8" tools, which I now find very handy on the rest of the cars in the stable.
Step 2 - the filler points forward and is a bugger to get out. Prepare yourself mentally for a good fight.
Step 3 - go to a reputable store and buy a good quality 10 mm hex key in a 3/8" drive socket,
and if you've not got one get a 3/8" drive breaker bar, a really high quality one,
not the rubbish that comes in the cheap socket sets, this a is a 4WD, not a slot car.
A ratchet may not fit and they are weaker as well, I tried and failed with a racthet.
Step 4 - lie under car with your head between the engine sump and the steering rack and stick your fingers up
and poke the hex socket into the hole; attach breaker bar and push upwards to rotate the socket anti-clockwise.
Pushing upwards works best as you brace yourself against the ground. Remove filler plug.
Chances are the mechanics haven't opened this either, it takes a lot of force. Cheap and crappy tools may not be up to the task.
If you can't get it out the consider giving up.
Step 5 - open the drain and catch the old oil. Replace drain plug!!!. Do not view the amount of oil that came out as an indication of what needs to go back in, it probably was not full.
Step 6 - refill using a tube running down from the engine bay, or a proper oil filler gun. Well worth the investment with 2 diffs, a transfer case and a gearbox to fill. Note the oil is different to the transfer case and different ot the rear diff. Get the right oil and get enough oil! One of the US oil brands makes nice 2.5 litre jars, or go halves with a friend. One litre won't be enough as you will spill about 1/2 litre in the process. Standing the oil in the sun for an hour makes it flow better and makes the job easier.
Step 7 - make sure the oil flows out of the filler when the diff is full - do not underfill. Put some anti-seize on the thread to make next time easier and replace filler plug to somewhere near correct torque.
I did this task successfully as I refused to accept defeat, but there is little or no working room between the front diff and the sump, the secret was the 3/8" tools, which I now find very handy on the rest of the cars in the stable.
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