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Front propeller shaft seal.

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  • Front propeller shaft seal.

    1999 3.4ltr, auto.

    I have a seal leak from the front shaft on the auto . its looking fairly serious as ive just topped at least 1/2 a liter. Nice puddle stain on the dive way floor!

    I was wondering if anyone has changed the seal themselves . was it a big ordeal ? i think by the looks of it, it will need a pulley to get the shaft out then change the seal.
    I'm fairly good with my hands and at times i'm over confident and just rush in . these days ive learnt to ask about the job first ....

  • #2
    Your talking of the front diff seal where the cv shaft goes in? I replaced my front passenger side one 6 months ago because it failed and allowed half of the diff oil to leak out within a few days. I had previous experience with lower ball joints and cv shaft replacement too so wasn't too difficult. i bought the seal off EBay for $32. They're sized differently depending on the side of the diff. I think the passenger side one is larger. You'll need a 35mm impact socket for the axle nut. Do it up tight when re-tightening. I think the recommended torque for it is 235nm. You'll also need a pry bar or short crow bar to lever the cv shaft out of the diff. Re-grease the splines when you put it back in afterwards to help make removing easier next time. You'll need a special tool to pull the existing seal out. Can buy them fairly cheap. And a torque wrench for the lower ball joint coupling bolts is important. I wouldn't recommend doing those 4 bolts back up at the recommended 80nm as that's a good way to break one of those bolts. I do mine up at 50-60nm to avoid a broken bolt.
    Brett1979
    Avid PP Poster!
    Last edited by Brett1979; 21-02-2018, 08:17 PM.
    2005 120 series V6 Grande, 2 inch susp lift (King/EFS combo), 32 inch MT’s, Safari Snorkel, rear diff lock, breathers, Light Force spotlights, UHF, dual batteries.

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    • #3
      Click image for larger version  Name:	20180221_064208.jpg Views:	1 Size:	80.4 KB ID:	732554 oh , im sorry i must have explained wrong ,,, well the wrong end of the stick. the opposite end to what you are talking about .the diff towards the front is all good , the seal from the same shaft towards the middle section say that is splined into the side rear of the auto tranny that would make it the transfer case seal
      Last edited by Tonz; 27-02-2018, 06:45 PM.

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      • #4
        So i guess no one has had problems with this one before . the trans mechanic said its quite common as sand can get behind the cover of the transfer case seal and chew out the seal . thats what he said , but i tend to think the seal has done 260000 klm, and the auto was out recently moving that seal a bit and she let go . I think it will be a Toyota part and about an hours labour . he said its bolted with a very high tension so good luck with that trying to undo it at home . once that is off it should be easy. so he says .

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        • #5
          So it's the front shaft's output shaft seal on the the transfer case?
          Remove the front prop shaft and drop the transfer oil.
          Look up the flange and you'll see the retaining nut which is peened over. Use a suitable punch to relieve the peen. You'll need a device to hold the flange while you undo the nut.
          A 3-jaw puller will have the flange off.
          Lever out the old seal, clean things up.
          There's no step machined in the transfer case so that new seal can and will go right through. You have to push it in dead square, patience required.
          The put it all back together and re-fill.

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          • #6
            I haven't done a Prado but I cant imagine it is any different. Drop off the prop shaft and check if there is a locking device holding the nut. If so remove it. Then you will need some serious effort to remove the nut. Breaker bar and looooong extension on the lever and preferably an impact socket. In low range 1st with handbrake is usually enough to stop the beast moving but you might need to chock it or have a mate hold the brakes it the car is on a hoist. An impact gun might do the job. The yoke is likely to need a puller to remove it. Then dig out the old seal. Carefully. Don't damage the housing. Check the shaft and housing for wear and if ok install the new seal. Be careful because these can be easily damaged. Clean the housing and leave it dry, don't be tempted to loctite or silicon the housing where the seal sits. Oil the seal before fitting and if you are installing over a spline wrap the spline in electrical tape, again to prevent damage. Insert the seal with a socket or cylinder that is a little smaller than the od of the seal. Press the seal in evenly and then put it all back together. VFT torque the nut to specification and bend the locking tab if it exists.

            Got a rear to do on the 80 on Friday.
            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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            • #7
              Thanks for the advise guys it was very helpful and much appreciated, but unfortunately i couldn't get the the nut undone. i had a long leaver and a pipe as well to extend it , but i failed getting it off ..Ill drop it in tomorrow to the mechanic and let him have a go. i think i needed more space to leaver , like a hoist....dam it was hot today working in the garage.

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