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  • engine conversion

    G day
    I have a 02 Prado 3L turbo diesel Bloody thing has been sucking excessive fuel for yrs now it only has 178k on it i have had all the experts with their fingers in it Im also a mechamic so pretty much left no stone unturned, its a manual what are you guys getting for your manuals out their.
    I am also considering a transplant later model engine & convert to auto I have been everywhere in this old girl & majority off road so no i dont want to flog her off so just wondering has any1 done a transplant cheers for any info whats so ever
    John

  • #2
    What do you get, L per 100? I have a KZ auto and it returns around 12 city/highway and that goes to around 14 when towing. Will go up to 18 if the ambients are high, 40+ when that old fan is roaring constantly.
    I've been looking into a re-power too, no two much for economy although that would be nice, but for some extra hp when towing.
    Seems around $5 to $5.5k for a D4D with harness, ecu, key reader and any other bits needed. Mileage on the donor can be anywhere around 100 to 150k.
    Usually from a Hilux.
    Not much info around on the actual transplant. Obviously the engine swap is the easy bit, wire in could be a nightmare.
    I would expect the D4D to run cooler than the KZ, seems to be the case in the 120's and 150's with the engine tuned much leaner.
    I looked into fitting a twin cam head on the KZ, re-building the bottom end, pistons to suit, but the power increase wasn't there and $$$ were similar to sourcing a D4D. No one wanted to help with injectors either.
    Living out in the sticks makes this sort of build difficult.

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    • #3
      g day
      Mines a manual iused to get 10 city around 12/14 towing I put a Rapid chip in mine for more HP yes a little bit better then added a boost controller better again Yes the wiring is the only thing that concerns me then theirs the unknown i want to change it to a auto as well
      Im also not super impressed with the d4d i have heard that they have a few issues as well
      its in too good of nick to sell it plus id get bugga all for it

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      • #4
        I would be tempted to throw a 4JJ motor in. Pick of the common rail diesels (obviously just my opinion). I have had three and racked up 150,000km among them with nothing more than services.

        There are conversions being done with the smaller Cummins engines too but be aware those things are very heavy.
        My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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        • #5
          No doubt the Isuzu is the pick but she's not going to bolt up to the Toyota box without adaptor. Then there's the hassle of getting it to talk to the existing immobiliser and so on.
          Originally I was not impressed with the D4D either but it seems the problems are now so well documented hopefully one can have some faith in it.
          I checked the US wrecker scene for a suitable transplant. Not much offering for the small engine bay of a 90. Heaps of cheap 6BT Cummins but they need the engine bay of a Cruiser or Patrol. They have the 4BT Cummins but it doesn't bolt easily to anything and would shake a car to bits, no balance shafts. They now make a twin cam 2.8 but again no balance shafts, it's in the Chinese Foton etc.
          I think the best of the whole bad bunch is the D4D. Can make serious hp and in the light 90 chassis would be pretty quick.
          You'd need a complete donor car for all the wiring oddities, or a very helpful wrecker.
          I've been through the sums, adding suitable bits to the KZ to make more power and you're not all that far off the 5k mark. But it's quite a commitment to make the jump.

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          • #6
            Agreed but I would bolt the lot in, transfer case, gearbox and motor.

            The 6BT weighs 500kg!
            My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by carco View Post
              No doubt the Isuzu is the pick but she's not going to bolt up to the Toyota box without adaptor. Then there's the hassle of getting it to talk to the existing immobiliser and so on.
              Originally I was not impressed with the D4D either but it seems the problems are now so well documented hopefully one can have some faith in it.
              I checked the US wrecker scene for a suitable transplant. Not much offering for the small engine bay of a 90. Heaps of cheap 6BT Cummins but they need the engine bay of a Cruiser or Patrol. They have the 4BT Cummins but it doesn't bolt easily to anything and would shake a car to bits, no balance shafts. They now make a twin cam 2.8 but again no balance shafts, it's in the Chinese Foton etc.
              I think the best of the whole bad bunch is the D4D. Can make serious hp and in the light 90 chassis would be pretty quick.
              You'd need a complete donor car for all the wiring oddities, or a very helpful wrecker.
              I've been through the sums, adding suitable bits to the KZ to make more power and you're not all that far off the 5k mark. But it's quite a commitment to make the jump.
              G day
              Yep agreed their is not much you can put in them was even thinking of a LS1 but i dont know how economical that would be. Again the electrical im doing a LS conversion in another vehicle i have

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              • #8
                If you do go for an LS conversion use an LS3. Much better all round.
                My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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                • #9
                  much dearer iv done a few LS conversions the ls1 is still a good donk

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                  • #10
                    There's been some 1UZ conversions, in fact I think they're standard fitment in a similar US Toyota chassis.
                    The Aristo or Celsior came out in an AWD version of the 1UZ too, bit rare to find a half cut though.
                    But I like the idea of cheaper rego (4-cylinder) decent fuel economy and loads of torque.
                    Only one that fits all of those is a 4-cylinder common rail diesel.
                    Staying with a D4D means all the electrical stuff that rarely works after a conversion, should actually go.

                    Comment

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