1KZTE '96 Prado Long or Short valve head?

[aimlesslee44 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close aimlesslee44]

How can I tell if my head is the long or short valve version without actually removing a valve and measuring?

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

Can't help, I bought a fully assembled AMC head.
Considering it came with new valves, cam etc etc, it wasn't a consideration to use my old valve gear in a bare head.

[t303 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t303]

What is the actual model number of your Prado? eg KZJ95, KZJ90 etc.
IIRC the change in head came about 2000 in Aus, coinciding with the KZJ95 intercooled engine. Hilux and Surf had the short head I believe.
With the model number you could search the online parts sites and compare part nos for the heads perhaps.
cheers
Steve

[aimlesslee44 Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close aimlesslee44]

Carco...yes it is a fully assembled AMC head I'm buying but they come with 2 different valve lengths. Pretty sure mines the long now, the pistons have reliefs for the valves cut into them.

t303......it's a KZJ95, it's intercooled, it was a jap import to NZ. I've been in touch with SMS diesel in Sydney who are going to supply the AMC head kit and as my pistons have reliefs cut in them for the valves it appears mine is the long valve model.

Thanks for your input guys, much appreciated.

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

You can't do much until you have the old head off as you need to identify your old head gasket's thickness. There will be some holes punched down the left rear (from memory) and SMS will need to know how many holes so they match thickness. 3, 4 or 5 holes, differing gasket thickness.
Does you mechanic know the turbo doesn't have to come off? All the exhaust manifold studs are Torx head so you can unscrew them and there's enough movement in the oil/water and drain pipes to shunt the turbo sideways then lift the head. I didn't and pulled my turbo, once it was off I thought what a silly bugger. Added hours to the job and the SMS kit won't have the oil drain gasket or the water supply gasket plus you have all the good fun re-fitting the dump etc etc. Leave the turbo on.

[t303 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t303]

I had a post somewhere that seems to have fallen off, but short version is that you need to avoid using bolts into anything alloy, eg cylinder head. Avoid threading anything under tension into alloy because it picks up and increases the chance of pulling the threads. The 1KZ has IIRC 2 bolts, these can be changed to studs and nuts. Head to your fave parts ripoff store and get VL Commodore (or RB30 Nissan studs) and brass nuts. Studs are 8x1.25mm I think. I just did the whole lot from one packet of studs.
cheers
Steve

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

Yes Steve, there's 2-setscrews, all the rest are studs.
M10 x 1.25 and like you said, the same as Rb's.
But Toyota uses Torx head studs, Nissan doesn't so I went all Toyota.
Think the inlet side is M8 and smart people fit up the inlet manifold while the head's on the bench. I didn't.

[t303 Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close t303]

Yes Steve, there's 2-setscrews, all the rest are studs.
M10 x 1.25 and like you said, the same as Rb's.
But Toyota uses Torx head studs, Nissan doesn't so I went all Toyota.
Think the inlet side is M8 and smart people fit up the inlet manifold while the head's on the bench. I didn't.

Yeah, you're right, M10 it is, I went with standard studs, two nuts locked up gets them set with a bit of Stud-Lock so they don't have to be too tight. Antiseize or locktite on anything that has to screw into the head, and make sure to use a torque wrench.