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  • Starting problems

    A couple of times in the last week Prado has refused to start, cranks over happily but won’t fire. This morning while it was misbehaving I noticed that the glow indicator went off with a click after a second: I tried this a few times and it was the same each time . 2 hrs later I tried again. Glow indicator goes out after a second: no click. Engine starts first time.
    Presumably there is a dodgy relay: how do I find which one? Mine is a 2000 model.

  • #2
    Could also be glow plugs. Have you changed yours at any point? The 1KZ has a history of droppjng glow plugs when they get old. Having a glow plug tip embed in a piston or worse bounce around is bad. Best change them anyway with new Bosch plugs and then chase the relay if the problem is still there.
    My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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    • #3
      Ok thanks; no, it’s still running original plugs (at 295k). I’ll take your advice and change them

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      • #4
        Couple of things re-glow plugs. The glow relay is beside the main fuse/relay box in the engine bay.
        The dash warning light means nothing, it's just a pretty light for show.
        When you key ON the glow's get battery voltage which will stop if the ecu doesn't see a start signal in about 30 seconds.
        A normal cold start will need the glows ON for about 5 seconds and then hit the starter. You should experiment with your car to find the best time taking into account engine temp.
        Once the engine has started, the glows will keep getting battery voltage until coolant temp reaches approx 60 deg C, then they'll switch off. (This is all about emissions)
        If you switch off a hot car and re-start, the glows will still see battery voltage until engine start at which time the ecu will realise coolant temp is over 60 deg C and kill the glows.
        To test glows you have to remove the bridging bar so each glow plug can have resistance checked. A crook plug will return zero resistance.
        Take care if you intend removing old glow plugs, they tend to weld themselves into the head. Suggest you drown them in WD40 the day before and still take it easy.

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        • #5
          Carco has it covered, all I can add is buy genuine glowplugs if you can, otherwise it's a crap shoot, and DEFINATELY avoid Bosch plugs from my experience. Last year I basically killed a starter motor trying to get the old girl started over winter. When I pulled the plugs I got out the bench power supply and hit them with ELEVEN volts (not 12) and checked them with a IR gun. The old garbage plugs would get to (maybe) 400ish C after about 10 secs, the new Toyota Ceramics hit around 700C in about 3secs, the difference is HUGE! The resistance check they specify may tell you that the plug is not open circuit, but even the old plugs still "tested" OK.
          cheers
          Steve
          Last edited by t303; 02-03-2018, 06:20 PM.

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          • #6
            Thanks fellas, great info

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            • #7
              I have never had an issue with Bosch glowplugs but obviously some have. Just don't go cheap no name parts.
              My 150 build - http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?27423-A-Random-approach-to-a-Bluestorm-150-GXL-D4D-automatic

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              • #8
                I had to replace a couple of mine, two were obviously very old and dead whereas the other two had been replaced more recently by previous owner.
                So the parts shop had a $25 Bosch. a $45 NGK and a $55 Bosch, all suitable for the KZ.
                She got the cheap Bosch and at trade so $20 each. win win.
                I bench tested them all and they all fired up at very similar speeds (bloody quick) and to the same heat colour. I'd guess 500 max as although they were red hot, they didn't have that see through glow you get in the 700+ range.
                If I could post a video on this site I'd demonstrate her start and glow time, it's quite OK.

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                • #9
                  Well I think I have the problem sorted: I have ordered a set of genuine plugs, because the old girl deserves them, after 300k close enough. But the real issue I discovered when I started the car for my wife, to show her that it was safe to take that evening; turned it off and hopped out for her to take over...and it wouldn’t start for her!!
                  The key she was using, an after market replacement, was no longer talking to the CPU...

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Wattlebloke View Post
                    Well I think I have the problem sorted: I have ordered a set of genuine plugs, because the old girl deserves them, after 300k close enough. But the real issue I discovered when I started the car for my wife, to show her that it was safe to take that evening; turned it off and hopped out for her to take over...and it wouldn’t start for her!!
                    The key she was using, an after market replacement, was no longer talking to the CPU...
                    There is a programming process, I have paired an original transponder key myself, but not 100% sure if an aftermarket key would do the same. Should, but....

                    Do you have a workshop manual of any kind? Even the Gregory's has the procedure in the body electrical section.
                    Last edited by t303; 08-03-2018, 08:40 PM.

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