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LOL posted twice.......cheers Steve
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Face lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yet -
Well... In a sense its kind of backfired on me but probably safer that it has.
Since I repaired the knock sensor harness while cleaning everything, its brought them back online and the detonation that had developed recently is now.under control... Except the on a regular occasion now I get a knock code and my.to.ing goes stupidly retarded and the car becomes an even bigger gutless wonder.
Still, bether to have repaired the sensor harness then not. I urge you all.... Check to see if your knock sensors are operating. If the harness fails, it won't log a code. It just stops.
They are a mass resonance sensor so you will need to induce detonation to test but man... The amount of times I've floored it up a hill and am now wondering what was preventing from grenading my motor.Comment
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Oh and arriving very soon is a package from a mate that works at Gates.
Timing belt kit
Water pump
Hydraulic tensioner
Upper and lower radiator hoses
All three accessory beltsComment
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Quick peek... while the rest uploads.
Before. The horror I found inside our inlet manifolds
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What am I looking at lol ??.... Cheers SteveFace lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yetComment
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The casting mark and the blob of slag. This will disrupt airflow. Not by much. But that is now polished smooth.Comment
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The finished product of the above photo
Here are some more photos of that infamous night.
The Diagnostic connector with my OBD cable monitoring cable plugged in. Work in progress.
The other end of that cable
The offending Gutless Wonder...
After removing the throttle body from the intake, I could see this staining. I'm thinking this might be an indication of a leak.
Can someone tell me what this vac diaphragm is on the TPS?
The $40 grinder that had enough attachments to polish the entire intake manifold... all three sections. lol
This is the cleaner I was using. I was basically pouring it into a container and then scrubbing everything in sight that had fuel or air flow over it.
ARGH!!! More damn casting marks and a seam. Enough to drive me insane. My OCD that I never had kicked in hardcore at this point. The grinder comes with a flexible attachment to feed it into the intake runners.
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This is the final section that bolts onto the valley section of the intake. Considering the flash is on and you still can't see into the runners, it kind of gives you an idea on how much carbon was in there.
After I scrubbed it and before I polished it
The valley before it's removal...
This is the knock sensor harness. It looks ok in the picture but when you touch it, the plastic outer sheath has hardened to the point it cracks away and flakes. You can see a little speck of green in the bottom section of the harness.... thats corrosion.
Close up of the corrosion.
My replacement harness. I reused the old plugs and grabbed some RCA cables. Chopped off the RCA and was able to solder the centre core in place and join the shields together. Then some black split tubing and Bobs your Aunty! Look. It's probably not oil and fuel resistant but the fact of the matter is it's going to outlast the car and it's better then what it had.
The intake is removed! You can see the knock sensors on either bank. 9/10 times, the sensors don't fail... the harness does. But it won't throw a code as they are often a dead short... so it's sending a perfectly healthy message. Best bet to check them is to deliberately cause detonation. Do something crazy like rev it hard at the same time as pulling the fuel pump fuse/relay. That should make the little bugger knock!
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Also Santa came early this year in the form of a mate... Dropped this off on my door step. All Gates quality gear. I'm weighing up the idea of swapping out the viscous fan for a thermo or two.
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Well I started the timing belt this evening and made a lot of progress in the last couple of hours. Although I do have the issue of one camshaft bolt is stuck and I would like to remove them both so I can replace the seals on them. Contemplating replacing the crank seal. It's not leaking or weeping... but then again, neither are the camshafts and I'm still doing those!
Even replacing the hydraulic tensioner.
Harmonic balancer bolt undid very easily when a cheater bar was placed on the chassis rail and quick bump from the starter was applied.. heheComment
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Didn't realize the tensioner's were hydraulic !!.. Saving yourself some serious coin doing all this yourself, I wouldn't be game enough lol.... Cheers SteveFace lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yetComment
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The tensioner is a two piece deal. It has the standard spring loaded tensioner and then bolted beside it a small hydraulic ram for extra tension. I'll grab a pic if I remember. Just about to go outside and finish the job.
As per usual I kind of went a bit overboard and removed my entire radiator... As per usual, glad I did go overboard! The amount crap between the radiator and the condenser! Yowser.
By removing the rad I have so much room in front of the motor... Its incredible. Also seriously considering swapping to thermo fans. Couldn't believe the weight of the fan.Comment
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So to get to the hydraulic tensioner is a prick. No wait it's a c... Oh nevermind. Essentially if you have a look at page 5 here http://yotarepair.com/PDF%20files/5V..._belt_inst.pdf you can see the tensioners location. Easy enough right? Except the the aircon compressor is in the way. So you need to remove that.... but to do that, you need to drop the power steering pump.
This is all to get to the rear bolt of the tensioner. The power steering pump is fairly easy to get out of the way. Since at this stage it's only held by one bolt that you've already loosened to allow it to pivot. So you drop it out of the way. Then there is a 12mm bolt on the side of the compressor that is a nightmare to get too. Plus the 120345071234FT.LB it's been torqued to doesn't help. Since it's so tight, it's made even more difficult by the fact that you need to straight drive it (no uni joints) and there is not enough room between it and the chassis rail to get a 1/2" ratchet/cheater in there... my 3/8" didn't either but it's a bit large anyway. So, one 12mm 1/4" socket later and a make shift cheater bar, plus 7 bloody knuckles later. It's loosened. Currently having a coffee and a whinge before I finish removing the bolt.
While I haven't taken many photos, I have found a few guides online with photos plus a pdf. None of them are really all that good. I think I might combine them to make a super DIY guide, because it really isn't that difficult. Just daunting.Comment
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OK... So you guys are going to get a blow by blow account here as I smash my year against the wall with this tensioner. As a typical rule of thumb, the tensioner doesn't get replaced. But given that I had no means of compressing it again it was cheaper for me to replace it. Just so I can brag a little bit, the Gates Santa who dropped off the three accessory belts, radiator hoses, timing belt kit with tensioner, water pump and a difficult to find serpentine belt for my wifes Mercedes charged me a grand total of $160. No, not a typo. The Benz belt alone is worth that much!
I have finally undone that bolt only to find that due to its length, it hits the chassis rail. Bugger. Just to replace this tensioner. What next, jack the motor up? Which means my ocd brain is then going to insist I track down engine mounts and trans mount and replace them if I undo one engine mount.
There is a snap on tool that will compress the tensioner with the 100-1000kg force required and gives you a hardened steel rod to insert to keep it compressed. I suggest this tool lol.Comment
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I would forget the thermo fan set up, they/it won't have the velocity that big mother fan can pull through. Some one else tried this a few years ago and went back to the viscous coupling (as is) he only changed it cause he didn't like the roaring of the fan, hello if it's roaring its doing its job and pulling the required air through..... Up to you but I would be leaving it alone, also one less electrical thing to go wrong..... Cheers SteveFace lift 150 Prado V6 auto. No mods yetComment
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