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What did you do to your 90 today?

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  • fitted my ORICOM 028UHF + UNIDEN ARIEL 950mm also fitted my HID SPOTLIGHTS.
    [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread.php?35754-1997-PRADO-GXL-(lap004)"][SIZE=5][FONT=Book Antiqua][CENTER][B][FONT=Century Gothic]MY 95 SERIES PRADO GXL.[/FONT][/B][/CENTER][/FONT][/SIZE][/URL]

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    • What I want to do this weekend

      plan to get rid of a bunch of hopeless scotch locks all over the place. Hopefully replace my Calibre raptor 9 spotties with maybe some KC Hilites.

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      • Took o out my led headlights after one failed. Decided that id go back to halogen after I cleaned the reflector a few months ago. Instant disappointment! Especially since I'd just forked out $80 bucks on the philips +130 bulbs. Took one look at the factory wiring and it was tiny! Plus there are no relays in the system which means the power travels through the headlight switch before reaching the bulbs. Multimeter showed about 2.5v drop with engine running to the drivers headlight.

        Ran complete new wiring using some lovely 4.8mm2 cable I had laying around feeding them in to a pair of relays and also using brand new H4 connectors.

        Result: 150mV loss to the drivers headlight and 80mV to the passengers. The lights are bright as hell and could do with some aiming but it's nice to have my angled cut off back that I lost with hid and led.

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        • Originally posted by RanJ View Post
          Took o out my led headlights after one failed. Decided that id go back to halogen after I cleaned the reflector a few months ago. Instant disappointment! Especially since I'd just forked out $80 bucks on the philips +130 bulbs. Took one look at the factory wiring and it was tiny! Plus there are no relays in the system which means the power travels through the headlight switch before reaching the bulbs. Multimeter showed about 2.5v drop with engine running to the drivers headlight.

          Ran complete new wiring using some lovely 4.8mm2 cable I had laying around feeding them in to a pair of relays and also using brand new H4 connectors.

          Result: 150mV loss to the drivers headlight and 80mV to the passengers. The lights are bright as hell and could do with some aiming but it's nice to have my angled cut off back that I lost with hid and led.
          love that your Prado is now better than one fresh outta the factory!

          Good Work!
          [I]Maroochydore, Sunshine Coast, Queensland[/I]
          1999 Toyota Landcruiser Prado RV 4cyl 2.7L Manual, Lifted 2-3" on Dobinson Springs & Shocks, Cooper STT Max Mud-Terrains in 235/85R16 all-round 32", Custom no Bullbar winch mount with Runva 11XP Winch, Black Sliders, 10000 Lumen, LED Lightbar

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          • Originally posted by juc33_prado View Post
            love that your Prado is now better than one fresh outta the factory!

            Good Work!
            Thanks mate. One thing in my mind at all times is that I want it to do what a 150 can do plus more... hence half the electrical modifications. Couple of years ago we went shopping for a new Prado but were basically disgusted at the prices. So with that logic in mind... we replaced my wifes Commodore with a Mercedes because I was just too happy with the 90.

            And if you think thats cool... wait until I finish the stereo build in it :P

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            • Originally posted by RanJ View Post
              Thanks mate. One thing in my mind at all times is that I want it to do what a 150 can do plus more... hence half the electrical modifications. Couple of years ago we went shopping for a new Prado but were basically disgusted at the prices. So with that logic in mind... we replaced my wifes Commodore with a Mercedes because I was just too happy with the 90.

              And if you think thats cool... wait until I finish the stereo build in it :P
              love a good stereo, my 'little ricer' years ago had a few grand worth in it very neatly, and i have hearing issues today lol

              SAMUEL
              [I]Maroochydore, Sunshine Coast, Queensland[/I]
              1999 Toyota Landcruiser Prado RV 4cyl 2.7L Manual, Lifted 2-3" on Dobinson Springs & Shocks, Cooper STT Max Mud-Terrains in 235/85R16 all-round 32", Custom no Bullbar winch mount with Runva 11XP Winch, Black Sliders, 10000 Lumen, LED Lightbar

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              • To give you an idea... the front doors alone with 3 way components,sound deadening and some fibreglass is currently sitting at about the $1400 mark. That's buying at wholesale pricing and no labour cost.

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                • Mmmmmmm.........
                  You must divulge specs of said three ways!
                  Running all active I take it?
                  I have been doing a lot of reading and research into car audio of late, still can't button down what I'm going to do with my 150. Every time I think I've decided something else comes along.
                  [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
                  TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

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                  • Front door speakers. I will be using the the passive crossover as I have 250wrms put aside for the front doors I'll have plenty of power to lose some through the crossover and still have headroom to boot.
                    http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/wp-co...Tech_Sheet.pdf

                    Back doors are still being planned. Headunit will be the last on my list as I'm waiting for the next round of smart phone integrated units to drop and see. might even stick with my clarion hx-d2

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                    • Very nice, should give you great SQ and still be loud enough to embarrass some kids in Commodores
                      Can't wait to see pics of your install, I love looking at different people's install work.
                      [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
                      TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

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                      • Yeah its going to leave a lot of red faces on Commodore drivers although it won't have overflowing bass... its going to have some serious damn kick...

                        The front doors... I figured if i just whacked in the woofer in yhe standard location behind the factory grille then the midrange driver is going to look a little tacky being mounted on the door by itself.

                        So I removed the factory grille and my old woofer. I then made up 50mm of mdf spacer and screwed it directly to the sheet metal of the old speaker location.

                        Then reinstalled the door skin and hey presto they lined up perfectly first time around. So this allowed me to mount the woofer to the door skin for appearances yet still mount solidly to the door frame behind! Now I have a slight rattle from the passenger door when it's closed. My aim is to get the old option audio splits sounding as good as they possibly can before I install the Hertz components.

                        End result is this...

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                        • Looks good, aftermarket but not screaming in your face look at me. Curious as to why your tweet is in that location, wouldn't the sound stage sound better with it up on the a pillar?
                          [LEFT]Silver 150 Facelift
                          TJM Bullbar, Lightforce Genisis Spots, Dual Battery System with bits from everyone, Powerful 4x4 slider/steps, Kaymar rear bar, "Genuine" Roof Racks, MSA Seatcovers, Dashmat, Tint, LED Interior Globes, Bridgestone D697s [/LEFT]

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by AussieAndy View Post
                            Looks good, aftermarket but not screaming in your face look at me. Curious as to why your tweet is in that location, wouldn't the sound stage sound better with it up on the a pillar?
                            Certainly would. Those speakers were fitted about 5 years ago (woofer in factory location behind factory grille) and always with the intention of 3 way components. At the time I could determine where I wanted my tweets... A pillar or mirror sail plane... or get the factory tweeter mounts. Where the tweet is now is where I'll be mounting the 3.5" mid and moving the tweet up higher.

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                            • did to my Prado today

                              200k service.

                              lots of $$$ in parts and oils but also saved getting charged 4 hours of workshop time,
                              ( how much an hour do they charge at Toyota these days ?) plus I know it's done right with the proper grades of oil in all the right places.

                              Surely they could have found an easier spot for the engine coolant drain plug!
                              Attached Files

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                              • Originally posted by RanJ View Post
                                To give you an idea... the front doors alone with 3 way components,sound deadening and some fibreglass is currently sitting at about the $1400 mark. That's buying at wholesale pricing and no labour cost.
                                If you have sealed all the holes in the doors, do you have any pics of that?

                                I'm in the process of upgrading the setup on my 150 and the holes in the doors are not on a flat plane i.e the left side of the large hole is more recessed than the right side by about an inch. I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to close it up.
                                95 3.0 Camp Car, 150 V6 Daily Driver[SIZE=4]
                                [/SIZE]

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