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I thought, after seeing all the post on the 120 board about D.I.Y's projects, I would give it a go and post a D.I.Y guide for THE MIGHTY 95 SERIES on the FITTING OF A 2.75" BEAUDESERT EXHAUST. And also after I found out how easy it is to link up the photos with a post.
First off I am no mechanic, but this is not all that taxing on the old grey matter,only 15 nuts to undo and 4 rubber mounts to release.
Safety is of upmost importance here,not much point on saving a few bucks, gaining a better understanding of you bus and getting great satification out of doing it yourself if YA DEAD UNDER YOUR CAR because you didn't follow sound safety proceedures.
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This shows the best route to get to the heat shield and it's 4 bolts. Once the shield is removed spay the 4 studs of the dump pipe,and all the other flange nuts, with Inox or simular. This I did a few days before.
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In this shot you can see the importance of wearing mechanic's gloves,that red stuff is my blood. Try not to shear off the top most bolt because that is needed to be replaced after the dump pipe shield is removed to hold the manifold shield in place,don't worry about the others.
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The yellow arrows show the 3 easy dump pipe nuts and the red 1 indicates were the harder one is located, between the dump pipe and engine block. By harder I mean you have to use feel to find the nut and there is very little space between the block and dump pipe for swinging the 1/4" ratchet with 12mm socket.Don't rush it because it will end in tears and skin missing from ya knuckles and elsewere. I had the whole system off in 2hrs by myself.
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This shot just shows the dump pipe removed and the 4 studs,really 3 because the bottom stud screwed out of the turbo housing. Then it is just a simple case of removing the engine pipe followed by the muffler and lastly the tail pipe.
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By removing the the rear wheel this will make it a hell of a lot easier to extract the old tail pipe. Use trolly jack to lower the diff this also helps.
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New dump pipe fitted, still no easier to get to the 4th nut but so what. But don't ya think it looks horny baby. Hook up the engine pipe and rubber mounts followed by the muffler and it's mounts then the tail pipe and mount,don't tighten up the nuts yet, just snuggly. When you have the whole system completely assembled, then starting from the front work your way to the rear tightening up the nuts as you go.
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Old and new.
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Look at the difference, like wow!!!!!!
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The tools that I used are just good quality Sidchrome sockets,ring,open enders and a knock-com-meter. Also used was a mechanics creeper,trooly jack,car stands and rubber grease.
Also you should also remove the bash plates because you will be suprised how many times you will drop a spanner or nut and it will land on top of them.
Was it worth it. YES YES YES :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: , because at the finish I felt great at my achievment,and also to boot it has made a difference to the power down low and the sound is GR8 :P :P :P .
Steve
I thought, after seeing all the post on the 120 board about D.I.Y's projects, I would give it a go and post a D.I.Y guide for THE MIGHTY 95 SERIES on the FITTING OF A 2.75" BEAUDESERT EXHAUST. And also after I found out how easy it is to link up the photos with a post.
First off I am no mechanic, but this is not all that taxing on the old grey matter,only 15 nuts to undo and 4 rubber mounts to release.
Safety is of upmost importance here,not much point on saving a few bucks, gaining a better understanding of you bus and getting great satification out of doing it yourself if YA DEAD UNDER YOUR CAR because you didn't follow sound safety proceedures.
[img]
[/img]This shows the best route to get to the heat shield and it's 4 bolts. Once the shield is removed spay the 4 studs of the dump pipe,and all the other flange nuts, with Inox or simular. This I did a few days before.
[img]
[/img]In this shot you can see the importance of wearing mechanic's gloves,that red stuff is my blood. Try not to shear off the top most bolt because that is needed to be replaced after the dump pipe shield is removed to hold the manifold shield in place,don't worry about the others.
[img]
[/img]
The yellow arrows show the 3 easy dump pipe nuts and the red 1 indicates were the harder one is located, between the dump pipe and engine block. By harder I mean you have to use feel to find the nut and there is very little space between the block and dump pipe for swinging the 1/4" ratchet with 12mm socket.Don't rush it because it will end in tears and skin missing from ya knuckles and elsewere. I had the whole system off in 2hrs by myself.
[img]
[/img]
This shot just shows the dump pipe removed and the 4 studs,really 3 because the bottom stud screwed out of the turbo housing. Then it is just a simple case of removing the engine pipe followed by the muffler and lastly the tail pipe.
[img]
[/img]By removing the the rear wheel this will make it a hell of a lot easier to extract the old tail pipe. Use trolly jack to lower the diff this also helps.
[img]
[/img]
New dump pipe fitted, still no easier to get to the 4th nut but so what. But don't ya think it looks horny baby. Hook up the engine pipe and rubber mounts followed by the muffler and it's mounts then the tail pipe and mount,don't tighten up the nuts yet, just snuggly. When you have the whole system completely assembled, then starting from the front work your way to the rear tightening up the nuts as you go.
[img]
[/img]Old and new.
[img]
[/img]Look at the difference, like wow!!!!!!
[img]
[/img]The tools that I used are just good quality Sidchrome sockets,ring,open enders and a knock-com-meter. Also used was a mechanics creeper,trooly jack,car stands and rubber grease.
Also you should also remove the bash plates because you will be suprised how many times you will drop a spanner or nut and it will land on top of them.
Was it worth it. YES YES YES :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: , because at the finish I felt great at my achievment,and also to boot it has made a difference to the power down low and the sound is GR8 :P :P :P .
Steve
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