$20 2nd battery tray for my RV 3.4 97 - :D

[infraredfotografy Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close infraredfotografy]

Dual battery is not new, and this story is only my 2 cents.

Of course, you can go ahead and buy the right battery tray for your Prado from Piranha or another supplier. I just want to talk about what I modified for my second battery (yeah, I want to save $$ for my deep cycle battery, and also want to do what I can do for my car). I only hope that this mod can be useful some times if you can not find out the right battery tray for your car. Otherwise, just read for fun, mates :mrgreen:

All of the device I need just some small pieces from my garage, so the price will be counted on my memory when I bought them from Bunnings Warehouse some months ago.

1. 3 x 3mm L steel clamp (seems that is is about $3/each) = $9
2. 7 x 10mm screw (I got them from nowhere, but it seems it is ~ $5)
3. 2m of heavy duty cooper wire 8 gauge (~ $3/m) = $6

Total: ~$20

Tools:
1. Driller (only one hole for the clamp number 3, other holes just on the body already)
2. 10mm socket, 10mm spanner.
3. Hammer.

Time: it costs me almost 3 hour to start and finish with some trails. But now it will be only about 1/2hour to do this job :mrgreen:

So, the job starts from the point that I removed the charcoal canister. Now the spare area looks like this.



I found that it is not so difficult to put the mechanism on the body to keep the battery staying stable there.

Then the setup was done with:



- Clamp (1): drill a hole in this one for 10mm screw, screw it on the body at the 10mm hole close to the cabin wall. This clamp can be easily adjusted to fit with another longer size battery.
This clamp is used to avoid the movement of battery to the cabin.

- Clamp (2): drill a hole in this one for 10mm screw, screw it on the body near the fuse/relay box. This one also can be adjusted to fit with another longer size battery. This one is a perfect wall between the fuse/relay box and the battery.

- Clamp (3): adjusted this clamp to the desired shape (looks like “n”) that it will provide two parallel surfaces. To get stronger response from those surfaces, I screw on 10mm screw between 2 surfaces (you can not see it in the pic). This screw will work as a steel column 10mm for 2 surface. Absolutely strong.

This clamp will provide the same height level surface with the body surface (where I put the blue circle and the equal + an arrow). This mechanism will keep the bottom of the battery staying in a flat surface.

Drill a 10mm hole, then screw this clamp to the 10mm hole (that you have to drill on the body). Screw it tight there.

Run through 2 x 1m of heavy duty cooper wire into 2 existing holes in this clamp. You will use these wires to keep the battery tighter on the body.

- Screw 3 of 10mm screw into 3 existing holes on the side of the body. Those screws will be the points to fit the heavy duty wire. It will keep the battery from the above and over the other sides of the battery.

I intended to put one more clamp on the body to avoid the movement of the battery to the engine, but it was unnecessary.
Also, I thought I could use one battery clamp, but then I found it is useless with my setup.
Finally, I will put a piece of plastic or metal under the battery next few weeks, when I buy a new deep cycle battery, and put this battery to the opposite site of the engine bay. Although the surface is flat, and the battery is not leaking, but with a wall between the body and the battery should be better setup.

Now, just put the battery on the system.
Use all the 4 of heavy duty cooper wires.
2 of them, which run over the top of the battery, will be attached to 2 screws (2 + 3) on the body side.
2 of them, which run over the left and right side of the battery, will be attached to screw (1) on the body side.
Tighten the screws on the body side and make sure all heavy duty cooper wires are stable there.

I feel very very hard to pull or push the battery on this mechanism. It is better than the mechanism that is keeping the main battery in my Prado.




Done for this job. Now the rest is connecting the battery isolator.
Thanks for reading.

[croozza Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close croozza]

Re: $20 2nd battery tray for my RV 3.4 97 -

How secure is that, doesn't look too strong to me, there is alot of weight in the battery, especally when you go off road, last thing I would want is for the battery to come loose and fall onto the exhaust

[Guest Close Guest]

Re: $20 2nd battery tray for my RV 3.4 97 -

I would be worried about being checked by the Police, the Battery is not in an appropriate flat tray, is not using a bolt down retainer device which would in my views open the car up for a defect possibly?
If the battery is just sitting on the plates I would think it would ultimately be open to rubbing thru the case as it seems to have support points instead of a flat tray like support.
The Cannister you removed, has this been reinstalled elsewhere? as removing this would also open you up to a defect.

Just food for thought..

[infraredfotografy Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close infraredfotografy]

Re: $20 2nd battery tray for my RV 3.4 97 -

How secure is that, doesn't look too strong to me, there is alot of weight in the battery, especally when you go off road, last thing I would want is for the battery to come loose and fall onto the exhaust

don't worry mate, I test it with my hands, I can pull/push my main battery, but not this one - at least now.

As I haven't had any off-road until now, and probably no hard core off-road in the near future. This setup should be good.

However, I am designing a newer version for this battery tray which will ensure that even double size bigger battery than the one in the pic would not run out of the place with the hardest off-road.

I will update soon.

I would be worried about being checked by the Police, the Battery is not in an appropriate flat tray, is not using a bolt down retainer device which would in my views open the car up for a defect possibly?
If the battery is just sitting on the plates I would think it would ultimately be open to rubbing thru the case as it seems to have support points instead of a flat tray like support.
The Cannister you removed, has this been reinstalled elsewhere? as removing this would also open you up to a defect.

Just food for thought..

As I said, next week I will add one more flat plastic/metal piece under the battery which also attach to the clamps. This will be better flat surface for hard core off-road.

I attached my canister to the plastic cover of the fan. It is stable there with new pipe system for weeks.

[RogueAussie Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close RogueAussie]

Re: $20 2nd battery tray for my RV 3.4 97 -

Saving money is one thing, but ...

Can't say I'm a fan for the same reasons mentioned above. Call me a neat freak but the way that is strapped in, well ....

[Guest Close max_rocktansky]

Re: $20 2nd battery tray for my RV 3.4 97 -

Dual battery is not new, and this story is only my 2 cents.

Of course, you can go ahead and buy the right battery tray for your Prado from Piranha or another supplier. I just want to talk about what I modified for my second battery (yeah, I want to save $$ for my deep cycle battery, and also want to do what I can do for my car). I only hope that this mod can be useful some times if you can not find out the right battery tray for your car. Otherwise, just read for fun, mates :mrgreen:

All of the device I need just some small pieces from my garage, so the price will be counted on my memory when I bought them from Bunnings Warehouse some months ago.

1. 3 x 3mm L steel clamp (seems that is is about $3/each) = $9
2. 7 x 10mm screw (I got them from nowhere, but it seems it is ~ $5)
3. 2m of heavy duty cooper wire 8 gauge (~ $3/m) = $6

Total: ~$20

Tools:
1. Driller (only one hole for the clamp number 3, other holes just on the body already)
2. 10mm socket, 10mm spanner.
3. Hammer.

Time: it costs me almost 3 hour to start and finish with some trails. But now it will be only about 1/2hour to do this job :mrgreen:

So, the job starts from the point that I removed the charcoal canister. Now the spare area looks like this.



I found that it is not so difficult to put the mechanism on the body to keep the battery staying stable there.

Then the setup was done with:



- Clamp (1): drill a hole in this one for 10mm screw, screw it on the body at the 10mm hole close to the cabin wall. This clamp can be easily adjusted to fit with another longer size battery.
This clamp is used to avoid the movement of battery to the cabin.

- Clamp (2): drill a hole in this one for 10mm screw, screw it on the body near the fuse/relay box. This one also can be adjusted to fit with another longer size battery. This one is a perfect wall between the fuse/relay box and the battery.

- Clamp (3): adjusted this clamp to the desired shape (looks like “n”) that it will provide two parallel surfaces. To get stronger response from those surfaces, I screw on 10mm screw between 2 surfaces (you can not see it in the pic). This screw will work as a steel column 10mm for 2 surface. Absolutely strong.

This clamp will provide the same height level surface with the body surface (where I put the blue circle and the equal + an arrow). This mechanism will keep the bottom of the battery staying in a flat surface.

Drill a 10mm hole, then screw this clamp to the 10mm hole (that you have to drill on the body). Screw it tight there.

Run through 2 x 1m of heavy duty cooper wire into 2 existing holes in this clamp. You will use these wires to keep the battery tighter on the body.

- Screw 3 of 10mm screw into 3 existing holes on the side of the body. Those screws will be the points to fit the heavy duty wire. It will keep the battery from the above and over the other sides of the battery.

I intended to put one more clamp on the body to avoid the movement of the battery to the engine, but it was unnecessary.
Also, I thought I could use one battery clamp, but then I found it is useless with my setup.
Finally, I will put a piece of plastic or metal under the battery next few weeks, when I buy a new deep cycle battery, and put this battery to the opposite site of the engine bay. Although the surface is flat, and the battery is not leaking, but with a wall between the body and the battery should be better setup.

Now, just put the battery on the system.
Use all the 4 of heavy duty cooper wires.
2 of them, which run over the top of the battery, will be attached to 2 screws (2 + 3) on the body side.
2 of them, which run over the left and right side of the battery, will be attached to screw (1) on the body side.
Tighten the screws on the body side and make sure all heavy duty cooper wires are stable there.

I feel very very hard to pull or push the battery on this mechanism. It is better than the mechanism that is keeping the main battery in my Prado.




Done for this job. Now the rest is connecting the battery isolator.
Thanks for reading.

Your freaking joking... just buy a proper, safe battery tray.... Please, all don't try this so called mod. Do the job safely.

[kjs Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close kjs]

Re: $20 2nd battery tray for my RV 3.4 97 -

Dual battery is not new, and this story is only my 2 cents.





Done for this job. Now the rest is connecting the battery isolator.
Thanks for reading.

Mate i can understand your reasons of saving money as we all do and i can appreciate your efforts in your posts including your full size DVD on the dashboard :shock: (!) BUT that setup is NOT safe ! Also it is a defect .The battery can easily dislodge even if you don't offroad , for example you may take evasive action on the road and swerve . This can throw the battery right into your engine and it WILL do serious and expensive damage . In your case if that battery falls it will likely take out your A/C pipes and fusebox alone will which will cause unbelievable $$$$ in damage . And thats if your lucky , with enough force it could punch a hole in the engine block .
A battery is an explosive device ,hence that warning sticker you can see on the top .
Buy a proper kit from a reputable company .

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

Re: $20 2nd battery tray for my RV 3.4 97 -

Nasty.
Sorry fella but why buy a 4x4 if you're blinging it up, and not going offroad? You'll pay more on repairs and petrol whilst suffering poor on-road performance.Surely a pulsar or subaru would be the go.

[Derb Senior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Derb]

Re: $20 2nd battery tray for my RV 3.4 97 -

Hi Fellas. That would have to be about the most dodgy battery set up I have ever seen. Were I a vehicle tester, I would pink sticker that unit. For another $30-00 - $50-00 you could fit that $250-00 battery into a really good secure cradle - why wouldn't you? Good luck - you will need it!

[NevDickens Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close NevDickens]

Re: $20 2nd battery tray for my RV 3.4 97 -

Dual battery is not new, and this story is only my 2 cents.

Of course, you can go ahead and buy the right battery tray for your Prado from Piranha or another supplier. I just want to talk about what I modified for my second battery (yeah, I want to save $$ for my deep cycle battery, and also want to do what I can do for my car). I only hope that this mod can be useful some times if you can not find out the right battery tray for your car. Otherwise, just read for fun, mates :mrgreen:

All of the device I need just some small pieces from my garage, so the price will be counted on my memory when I bought them from Bunnings Warehouse some months ago.

1. 3 x 3mm L steel clamp (seems that is is about $3/each) = $9
2. 7 x 10mm screw (I got them from nowhere, but it seems it is ~ $5)
3. 2m of heavy duty cooper wire 8 gauge (~ $3/m) = $6

Total: ~$20

Tools:
1. Driller (only one hole for the clamp number 3, other holes just on the body already)
2. 10mm socket, 10mm spanner.
3. Hammer.

Time: it costs me almost 3 hour to start and finish with some trails. But now it will be only about 1/2hour to do this job :mrgreen:

So, the job starts from the point that I removed the charcoal canister. Now the spare area looks like this.



I found that it is not so difficult to put the mechanism on the body to keep the battery staying stable there.

Then the setup was done with:



- Clamp (1): drill a hole in this one for 10mm screw, screw it on the body at the 10mm hole close to the cabin wall. This clamp can be easily adjusted to fit with another longer size battery.
This clamp is used to avoid the movement of battery to the cabin.

- Clamp (2): drill a hole in this one for 10mm screw, screw it on the body near the fuse/relay box. This one also can be adjusted to fit with another longer size battery. This one is a perfect wall between the fuse/relay box and the battery.

- Clamp (3): adjusted this clamp to the desired shape (looks like “n”) that it will provide two parallel surfaces. To get stronger response from those surfaces, I screw on 10mm screw between 2 surfaces (you can not see it in the pic). This screw will work as a steel column 10mm for 2 surface. Absolutely strong.

This clamp will provide the same height level surface with the body surface (where I put the blue circle and the equal + an arrow). This mechanism will keep the bottom of the battery staying in a flat surface.

Drill a 10mm hole, then screw this clamp to the 10mm hole (that you have to drill on the body). Screw it tight there.

Run through 2 x 1m of heavy duty cooper wire into 2 existing holes in this clamp. You will use these wires to keep the battery tighter on the body.

- Screw 3 of 10mm screw into 3 existing holes on the side of the body. Those screws will be the points to fit the heavy duty wire. It will keep the battery from the above and over the other sides of the battery.

I intended to put one more clamp on the body to avoid the movement of the battery to the engine, but it was unnecessary.
Also, I thought I could use one battery clamp, but then I found it is useless with my setup.
Finally, I will put a piece of plastic or metal under the battery next few weeks, when I buy a new deep cycle battery, and put this battery to the opposite site of the engine bay. Although the surface is flat, and the battery is not leaking, but with a wall between the body and the battery should be better setup.

Now, just put the battery on the system.
Use all the 4 of heavy duty cooper wires.
2 of them, which run over the top of the battery, will be attached to 2 screws (2 + 3) on the body side.
2 of them, which run over the left and right side of the battery, will be attached to screw (1) on the body side.
Tighten the screws on the body side and make sure all heavy duty cooper wires are stable there.

I feel very very hard to pull or push the battery on this mechanism. It is better than the mechanism that is keeping the main battery in my Prado.




Done for this job. Now the rest is connecting the battery isolator.
Thanks for reading.

PAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA...HAA...A. Youve got to be joking.....youre taking the piss.. right? Like others have said, saving money is one thing but that is plain dangerous. Buy a proper battery tray or at least get someone that knows what they are doing to help you.Or better still, take your vehicle into a TJM, ARB or similar and get them to fit it up for you, it will be money well spent.

[infraredfotografy Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close infraredfotografy]

Re: $20 2nd battery tray for my RV 3.4 97 -

I know this is not the best version, I will upgrade a better version for this one for next Tasmania trip :mrgreen: .

However, after almost 2000km with one trip to Hunter Valley, one trip to Kiama, and driving almost daily, I find out there is nothing change in the setting. 4 amplifiers that I am running in the car are working very well from this battery.

[Matty80 Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Matty80]

Re: $20 2nd battery tray for my RV 3.4 97 -

Mate, I aplaud your inginuity and your attempt, however, that is sadly as far as I can take the compliment!!!

I would strongly suggest that you remove the battery from your car as soon as possible... Vibration effects cannot be checked by simply testing with your hands. And vibration is usually measured in both frequency and mm's of movement per second (or similar). With all that weight in the battery, and vibration (and shock loading) just from standard driving on road and engine running - it won't be long before something gives way... even a crack in the under side of the battery will be detrimental to your engine bay and components (hoses, paint, cast alloy components, steel, plastic) think of all that leaking acid splashing down the side of your engine... ????

Please follow the advise of all the Pradopointers that have taken their time to post advise and concerns on this matter, on your behalf... Nobody here wants to see you ruin your pride and joy!!!

Lets be honest too, by the look of that photo - there isn't much battery support from the bottom, it looks to be prodominantly supported by your 'wires' and thats alot of weight to be coming off that side panel there...

I know this is not the best version, I will upgrade a better version for this one for next Tasmania trip :mrgreen: .

However, after almost 2000km with one trip to Hunter Valley, one trip to Kiama, and driving almost daily, I find out there is nothing change in the setting. 4 amplifiers that I am running in the car are working very well from this battery.

It may not have given you any issues yet mate, but it will, I can garrantee that... Pray the cops don't pull you over for a routine inspection. Cars get defected for incorrectly secured batteries...

Matt

[infraredfotografy Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close infraredfotografy]

Re: $20 2nd battery tray for my RV 3.4 97 -

Mate, I aplaud your inginuity and your attempt, however, that is sadly as far as I can take the compliment!!!

I would strongly suggest that you remove the battery from your car as soon as possible... Vibration effects cannot be checked by simply testing with your hands. And vibration is usually measured in both frequency and mm's of movement per second (or similar). With all that weight in the battery, and vibration (and shock loading) just from standard driving on road and engine running - it won't be long before something gives way... even a crack in the under side of the battery will be detrimental to your engine bay and components (hoses, paint, cast alloy components, steel, plastic) think of all that leaking acid splashing down the side of your engine... ????

Please follow the advise of all the Pradopointers that have taken their time to post advise and concerns on this matter, on your behalf... Nobody here wants to see you ruin your pride and joy!!!

thanks Matt and others for your enthusiastic advices, I am seriously thinking about this.

If the next version can not fix all the issues that it has now, I will absolutely remove this one

[PradOz Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close PradOz]

Re: $20 2nd battery tray for my RV 3.4 97 -

i fitted a cheaper tray from supersheap (around $10 for the tray) into my 90 series petrol on top of the drivers side guard. It was easy to do and required minimal relocation of anything else. Only drawback is ensuring you get a lower height battery to suit the location but i found one ok. actually battery is over 5 years old and still going today so nothing went wrong with my set up. there are more batteries to choose from nowadays so probably easier to find one. in saying that i got mine from a battery bloke in Taree whilst on holidays from off the shelf

i fitted the battery tray to the guard using 2 screws [from memory] into existing threaded holes and also ran a short length of steel to brace it from a bolt for the cruise control. later on after a couple years i moved the cruise control closer to firewall to allow a longer battery but never fitted one as my first one kept going all way up until i sold the 90 series. I also fitted 2 J bolts to hold it down, one went all the way to the tray, but the second was only very short [maybe 6 or 7cm long] and slipped into the side of top of inner guard into an existing hole and it held it down securely. It never moved at all in the time i had it in and when i removed it when i sold car (buyer didnt want it) everything was the same as i fitted it on day one in a caravan park in Manning Point on holidays over one Christmas break.

A couple photos are on PP here: viewtopic.php?f=17&t=828

That maybe a safer cheaper alternative if you dont want to spend huge dollars. From memory it cost me the tray and cables and a heavy duty solenoid and the battery of course