Who put that speed hump there?

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Look at that lower eye bush. It is stoofed.
This has been a very tired shock for a while & the big jump would have been the final straw.

Regards, Jason.

Looks like the bump stop has been hitting a bit too regularly/ too much as well.
Stock springs likely sagged as well.

[Anth120playdo Banned Find all posts View Profile Close Anth120playdo]

Well, I'm ready as I need the Prado back on the road, but the reality is I just simply cannot afford new ones of a decent quality. The cheapest I can find (I'm pretty intent on a 2" lift as its quite advantageous for work) is 550-580 using King Springs which in my mind is great for when I want a car lower but not higher, would rather put my money on something from a better known brand thats done 20-30xxx and pay similar money.

Next question, with a 2" lift, do I need special struts or are standard aftermarket struts used with a lift spring? I understand that on big lifts 2.5"-5" and so on that an extended stroke strut is mandatory but I don't know about the 2" point.

I understand, most ppl know kings for lowered springs.
King springs make raised springs as well as lowered.most aftermarket struts are suitable for stock and a large variety of aftermarket raised springs, up to around 40-50mm depending on brands.
Personally I prefer Dobinsons springs.

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

Hey ####, thanks for that little tidbit. I'd rather not point OEM back in. Affording a decent set of brand new struts, shocks and springs is out of my league at the moment. But I'm definetly open to offers of buying second hand aftermarket kits. Rare I know.

One thing I do know is, that since I didn't "jump" the car intentionally and honestly, it should've held up to a speedhump at 60k (not good for it, but should've help up) it tells me that the rest of the suspension is a little shaky. Which is all for due course since it's done 370xxx! I'm looking at replacing...

front struts and springs
rear shocks and springs
front ball ball joint
wishbone bushes
swaybar link bushes (do I need extended sway bar links with a 2" lift?"

Open to suggestions on what else should be replaced while I'm in there. I hate doing suspension work so would rather knock it over in one go then come back to fix stuff later.

Upper & Lower Ball Joints - Have your existing ones failed? If not, I'd recommend to leave them alone.

Wishbone bushes / Lower control arm bushings - I recommend OEM style rubber ones for 4WD's, not poly.

Swaybar links - they don't need to be extended with a 2" lift, but I definitely found my car to handle better with extended ones.

Steering racks usually need replacing by 200k km. Something to consider.

BTW - From personal experience I find aftermarket gear simply does not last as long as the original equipment, so it's better to leave things as is, unless it's failing.

[RanJ Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close RanJ]

Upper & Lower Ball Joints - Have your existing ones failed? If not, I'd recommend to leave them alone.

Wishbone bushes / Lower control arm bushings - I recommend OEM style rubber ones for 4WD's, not poly.

Swaybar links - they don't need to be extended with a 2" lift, but I definitely found my car to handle better with extended ones.

Steering racks usually need replacing by 200k km. Something to consider.

BTW - From personal experience I find aftermarket gear simply does not last as long as the original equipment, so it's better to leave things as is, unless it's failing.

Balljoints haven't failed but they have 370xxx on them. So wouldn't it make sense to change them while I'm in there?

Bushes, I tend to prefer rubber bushes anyway and leave the poly for my V8 commodore. I much prefer the ride comfort over rubber. Do you have another reason for suggesting rubber over poly?

Swaybar links, I'll take that into consideration. Thanks!

Steering rack... how do I know? Steering is responsive, doesn't leak doesn't groan unless I hold it in hard lock. Is there some quick test I can do?

I agree that aftermarket does not always last as long but I do prefer to replace things when I'm in there and tend to use genuine parts when it does not require the amputation of a limb.

[baggs71 Inactive member. Find all posts View Profile Close baggs71]

Hi ####....so if ive got the spacer in...should I place in a monster bump stop?
Ive been most places out beyond...with no problems...just lucky?

This is what you can get after jumping the vehicle. Same as what you get if you add coil/strut spacers without extending bump stops.
Sometimes the corrugated roads can cause them to break at or usually next to the weld (weakest point).
On the o.e ones those pins are only about 16mm thick (dia).
Also they are only welded a bit on each side, pretty strong little welds considering what they go through.
However one of the most important improvements of an aftermarket strut is the increased pin size, eg; DOBINSONS are about 19mm, and 360 degree welds.
So much stronger. They look very chunky & strong.
I have o.e struts here if you really want one to put a weaker one in again.

[glen_ep Addicted PP Member Find all posts View Profile Close glen_ep]

Balljoints haven't failed but they have 370xxx on them. So wouldn't it make sense to change them while I'm in there?

Bushes, I tend to prefer rubber bushes anyway and leave the poly for my V8 commodore. I much prefer the ride comfort over rubber. Do you have another reason for suggesting rubber over poly?

Swaybar links, I'll take that into consideration. Thanks!

Steering rack... how do I know? Steering is responsive, doesn't leak doesn't groan unless I hold it in hard lock. Is there some quick test I can do?

I agree that aftermarket does not always last as long but I do prefer to replace things when I'm in there and tend to use genuine parts when it does not require the amputation of a limb.

Ball joints: I completely understand the desire to replace additional parts because it's convenient, I've been there, and been burnt by it! I don't believe there's a specified lifetime for the ball joints, and even if it was defined I'd argue against it because each car is used differently. The only facts you can work with here are: the condition of them now (?) and their track record (they've lasted 370,000 - so they're obviously very good quality parts!) If it were my car, I wouldn't replace them unless they showed signs of failure or the replacements planned are an upgraded component. Perhaps one difference between us is that I'm happy to pull mine apart again in a couple months if they do fail. Anyway, if you're really keen, at least ensure it will be a genuine Toyota part, because I bet you'd be lucky to get 100,000 from an aftermarket, let alone 370,000km.

Bushes: For the softer ride as you say - it's not just an advantage for the driver, but also for the vehicles sake as the bushings are meant to absorb part of the impact as you travel on rough roads. Additionally, I've heard/read online that poly's fail earlier and can deteriorate.

Steering rack: To be honest I don't know enough to explain. I'd have a professional inspect it. BTW.. genuine racks are in the thousands, aftermarket ones near $800 (poor quality), and reconditioned genuine ones near $400. I bought my reconditioned one from "Mr Racks".

[RanJ Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close RanJ]

duly noted. Thanks for the Glen.

####, I sent you a PM if you've got a minute...

[lugueto Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close lugueto]

Had seen Hilux OE crappy shocks do that, never Prado, 4runner, FJC etc shocks do that! Dang..

Check your ball joints as well, if they were damaged they will fail before making any weird noises other than a slight shudder. And when they fail, it gets ugly, more so if youre traveling at anything over 40kph.

Had that happen on my previous 95, trust me, you dont wanna go through it! if you're in doubt replace them!!

Cheers, Luis.

[RanJ Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close RanJ]

Hi Lugeto, I'm going to check the ball joints very soon

Canyone confirm, I'm looking at a pair of rear springs (springs only) for a 120 series 2"lift. Are they a direct fit?

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Canyone confirm, I'm looking at a pair of rear springs (springs only) for a 120 series 2"lift. Are they a direct fit?

No, pretty sure they are incompatible. 120 and 150 are compatible but not 90 vs 120/150.

[RanJ Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close RanJ]

d'oh! well I could dream right? Gumtree has a set of OME 2" a month old before changing again for a 120