I haven't seen much going on in Perth, is there a GTG? I've seen we have a WA 4x4 club that I'm going to try to get along to.
I can't go out yet, I haven't refitted my aftermarket front recovery points! :-) (After ARB pulled them off)
Well have to work something out in the next few weeks Jason, with the bit of rain we've had, tracks should be fun.
Geoff
Im not Bogged - I've just lost traction. . . . . and now I'm showing the wife why I bought those Maxtrax, and the tyre deflator, and the compressor, and the bullbar, and the winch, and a lot of other goodies I've hidden in the Prado
Video, more 4x4 instructors saying they are ok & best of 5.
just more opinions.......
People want to make $$$ from selling yellow & red toys for these vehicles so of corse there is people saying they are tie down points. It only takes one 4x4 to need aftermarket ones & then lets go looking for more sales. One fact that keeps coming back to me is, looking at the welded 14mm recovery points, clearly they were designed & fitted for much more than a tie down citation they point forward & far from ideal as a tie down. Although because of their strength, they are used for tie down as well.
Manufactures, usually have tie downs one at front & one at rear facing down, thin plate, ok for tie down.
Jasen the next gtg is in Vic in April next year.
Plenty of time to get ready.
It will be really good to put faces to the names, especially of the big posters.
Also to get to know the people as people, not opinionated pricks like me.
At the end of he day, as AJ has said with 2 heavy dampers at each end of the strap & (I will add the middle one, as if the end gets away, with a missile, there's nothing stopping it, 3 dampness is best is what I have realised.)
You all use whatever point you think is safe, in a safe way, because that's the correct way to dampen a strap, so you should be safe.
P.s perhaps wrapping winch rope around strap at the start of the strap could act as a good dampener/stopper!
Could be a bad idea I just thought of it, I'm an ideas man.
But then u may as well just winch.
Or not get stuck.
Ive decided, You are good at arguing for the hell of it.
AJ IS A SMART MAN , I see his opinions make sense, although we don't have to agree, well not yet anyway.
We already know there's no proof of anything. To be clear, NO PROOF.
Other than tow balls break.
Welded points don't break they take the front of the vehicle off. 2x facts.
Look at them, use your brain, if you can't see the difference between the 2? Mmmm.........
Obviously you have never looked to see the difference between the 2.
Well I think the only real solution to keep all you ladies happy is I will have to donate one of these to the cause so it can be the new designated PP recovery vehicle. As a simple lift without any "snatching" will be new recovery method any old point will be fine to attach to (just don't get underneath just in case lol).
I would NOT leave you behind and I would NOT pull you out.
If the missus wasnt in the car I would let you sit in the front passenger seat, provided you weren't covered in mud.... Whoowho, you get to sit in a real tuff Prado
mlc - caring old fart.
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Ive decided, You are good at arguing for the hell of it.
AJ IS A SMART MAN , I see his opinions make sense, although we don't have to agree, well not yet anyway.
We already know there's no proof of anything. To be clear, NO PROOF.
Other than tow balls break.
Welded points don't break they take the front of the vehicle off. 2x facts.
Look at them, use your brain, if you can't see the difference between the 2? Mmmm.........
Obviously you have never looked to see the difference between the 2.
Originally posted by Jasen
MJ are you a qualified structural engineer? Maybe you could give us some calcs to look at? Pale face lol
I can no more do the calculations that fly my Prado to the moon as I have no details on the original design nor the specifications for the weld. Nor do I know the assumptins made by Toyota or the design criteria for the rest of what hangs off the chassis. I could make some assumptions and work from that but I wont because they would be just my assumptions. I CAN see the difference even if #### you choose not to. The difference is the leverage that is applied through the added on section below the chassis rails. A point I have made at least twice in this thread. The load applied to the factory TOW points puts bending stress on the welds between this lower section and the chassis, regardless of whether the welds on the loops are strong enough or not, the load applied to the pretty yellow or red aftermarket pieces of slab puts the load directly into the chassis without this bending. I also said do what you want as will I. Good night.
Steve you cracked my up, again, I think they overpriced those aftermarket points by 2 bees dicks.
The difference is the leverage that is applied through the added on section below the chassis rails. A point I have made at least twice in this thread. The load applied to the factory TOW points puts bending stress on the welds between this lower section and the chassis, regardless of whether the welds on the loops are strong enough or not, the load applied to the pretty yellow or red aftermarket pieces of slab puts the load directly into the chassis without this bending.
I'm sorry but I couldn't disagree with you more if you are referring to the 'two bolt' design of aftermarket points that most people use on the 120. Both the bolts go through the lower section attached to the underside of the chassis and the shackle hole is actually slightly lower than the OEM loop. This makes the bending stress of the lower section to the main chassis greater than the OEM loops not less - simple geometry tells you that, you don't have to be a Structural Engineer.
If you are referring to the design that also has a bolt through the main chassis then I agree with you.
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