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  • Just bought an ex mining prado

    Hi, First post for me. Looks like a great forum.

    I have just bought a 2007 GX D4D 6 speed manual Prado with 150,000ks on the clock. I had it checked out by my dad who also has a prado and is quite mechanically minded and he couldn't fault it. The log book history is up to date and it definitely spent most of its life so far up north in WA (ie mining) and was owned by corefleet.

    What are any specific things i should look out for. I know I have to give the underbody and chassis a good clean with a high pressure cleaner to get the red dirt and muck out.
    Is the timing belt due around now? The pages out of the log book have been torn out along the perforated line so I can't tell the manufacturers interval for stuff like the timing belt and whatever else.

  • #2
    Change all the fluids and check the radiator. Shocks will be on the way out if original, and othersuspension parts may be worn. By the sound of it the car hasn't lived on a mine.
    [B]Steve[/B]

    2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by krypto View Post
      By the sound of it the car hasn't lived on a mine.
      Up our way the Prados are only used by the bosses, so they get a pretty easy life and are well maintained. Our jeeps on the other hand, GU patrols and Cruiser utes, are flogged pretty hard and maintenance is not real flash to say the least.
      Silver 150 D4D Manual. ARB winch bar, Safari snorkel, Tigerz11 12000lb 2 speed winch, Lightforce 70W HID XGTs, ABR Sidewinder dual battery system, ABR air compressor, Powerful 4X4 roof rack, Tigerz11 awning, ARB imitation rooftop tent, 40L Gold Engel to keep the Coke cold.

      Comment


      • #4
        Well that's good news that the supervisors are usually the one to drive prados. Hopefully that means its only been on corrugation driving to the office or mine site on relatively good roads. It has alot of k's for a 4 year old car! Most of the supervisors have rangers or hilux's where i work.

        The log book in the Prado is filled out but I've no idea what has been done or not so the advice regarding fluids i will definitely take on board and change them all. What are the important ones - i know oil must be changed of course and preferably every 5000 k. Then there's Manual transmission oil, Coolant, Power steering fluid, brake fluid. Is it worth doing the diff oil as well? Will probably need to get the radiator tested somehow as well..

        Suspension I'm not too sure about, what do i need to look at there? the car felt smooth on the road but then off road is what it's all about so i guess I'll find out then.. Does it involve new springs? What else?

        Thanks for your help guys, really appreciate it.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by perthspark View Post
          i know oil must be changed of course and preferably every 5000 k.
          Whilst more frequent can only be a good thing, Toyota servicing manual for a D4D recommends oil changes every 10,000km.

          Regarding suspension for off-road use, you will benefit greatly from an aftermarket suspension upgrade. There are many, many threads on suspension. Typically, you will be after springs and shocks, though some owners have been pleased with the results of just a spring upgrade. Selecting a suspension package that suits your needs can be a long and tedious process.

          LFaR.
          [size=1][color=#770000]29Feb12:[/color][color=#777700]12GXLTD Auto, ARB Deluxe Winch bar, WARN 9.5xp Winch, IPF 900XS, Tow, Safari snorkel, Front + Rear Recovery points, ARB OME NC Sports, ATZ-4Rib[/color][color=grey], Silver[/color]. [color=orange][b]MaxTrax[/b][/color], [color=maroon]ScanGuage II[/color], [color=blue]ARB CKMA12[/color], [color=deeppink]UHF: GME TX3440 AE4018K1 UNH047SX[/color], [color=darkgreen]Bushranger Air Jack[/color], [color=green]Staun + ARB Deflators[/color], [color=brown]WindCheetah Roof Rack[/color], [color=green]Foxwing[/color], [color=red]Super Charge MRV70, Redarc BCDC1220[/color], [color=darkblue]ARB 60L fridge[/color], [color=blue]MSA Fridge Dropdown slide[/color], [color=darkyellow]DRIFTA Drawers[/color], [color=gold]TJM Bash Plates[/color], [color=brown]TG150[/color].[/size]

          Comment


          • #6
            Whenever I buy a used car I change all the lubricants you mentioned as often they haven't been changed. My last car (manual) gear change improved heaps with new oil and a gearbox additive.

            Brake fluid is one in particular that often gets skipped, as well as diffs. I mentioned the coolant and radiator because a mate bought an ex mine car and had a lot of trouble due to a clogged up radiator and crap coolant.

            I also get to see a few mine sites and the previous comment is spot on that Prados are usually for supervisors and managers.

            Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk
            [B]Steve[/B]

            2010 Silver GXL Prado 150, D4D Auto, with a few non standard bits

            Comment


            • #7
              Change all the oils (diffs, gearbox and engine) and fluids and then you have a starting point for all the services in the future. I think the timing belt is changed at 150,000km but I might be wrong.
              [color=#fa0c23][b]
              Brian
              [/b][/color]

              [color=#004080][b]2011 Silver GXL Diesel Auto with dual batteries & pirellis etc often pulling a Jayco Discovery Outback
              [/b][/color]

              Comment


              • #8
                I almost bought an ex mine prado- but the one I looked at was from a gold mine near kal- where they had to drive over a salt flat to get to it. Found a fair bit of rust underneath after a close inspection. Might pay to get it up on a hoist and have a good look.
                2004 Prado GXL. v6 auto, ARB deluxe bar, exhaust, 2" EFS lift kit, Outback Acc rear bar,
                rallye 2000 spots, roof mount dvd, dig_options stereo, toyota roof bars.
                More to come!

                Comment


                • #9
                  [QUOTE= I think the timing belt is changed at 150,000km but I might be wrong.[/QUOTE]

                  I've heard 150,000km too I'll have to look for an owners manual with the pages not ripped out! Is it a hard one to do or should i leave it to a better qualified person than me..?

                  Hey krypto, what did your mate with the clogged radiator do, fit a new one? Is there a test that can be done on the existing one? maybe just a good flush or something hey.

                  LiveFreeAndRoam, I'll have a look through the suspension threads and see what i can use.. probably be a while after all the accessories and emergency gear is bought as I'll be flat broke haha!

                  timmay5.7, lucky you didn't get that one, salt flats in Kalgoorlie thats no good at all for the underbody. I'm putting it on a mates hoist this weekend and giving it a good clean and inspection.

                  Cheers for the helpful responses guys.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Mine (90 series) was an ex miner from the Pilbara, bought it with 90,000kms on the clock. The radiator needed to be cleaned out as it was 60% blocked and there was a lot of mud underneath that had dried into a concrete like substance, particularly on bolt threads.

                    This had me worried initially but I found using Wurths Rostoff made loosening any concreted bolts easy enough. There was also a thick build up of the crap in the roof gutters, but I soaked it in WD40 and gently went along and patiently rubbed/scraped/chiseled it off until I got back to the paint.

                    6 years later, not a spot of rust anywhere and any concerns about its previous life have long since disappeared.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Perthspark

                      Any car from that environment and k's I would be getting a full service done, also another thing to check is the clutch as they appear to only last around the 120k mark and the genuine relplacement cost is around the $2k mark, ouch. I hope it all goes well for you.

                      See ya on the tracks, Richo.
                      [B]Former [/B]Party Leader, [B]Now[/B] SDO SEQLD GTG 2015 PFA (Pradopoint Fairy Advisor)
                      [B]Bitumen - A Blatant Waste of Taxpayers Money[/B]

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        mate change fluids timing belt is 150,000 but im going to do mine at 100,000 just to be safe because if the timing belt fails the damage is major on a D4D. I also change oil and filter every 5,000.
                        [SIZE=5][SIZE=1][SIZE=2][FONT=arial]120 gx 6sp man,tjm gold edition 2",maxxis bighorn,toyota ally bar with toyota super winch,light force xgt hid 50watt,duel batts,safari snorkel,diesel care secondry finer filter,redarc low coolant alarm,turbo timer,gme uhf,hema hn5i nav,tjm basket,red centre roll out awning,diy rear table...[/FONT][/SIZE][/SIZE][/SIZE]

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                        • #13
                          Do service centres/mechanics put stickers on the outside of the timing belt cover to say it's been replaced? what is the best way to tell.. The log book says the 150,000 k service has been done but the perforated page has been ripped out. Could be an aftermarket belt on it which would mean it had been done? (althought i'd prefer genuine).

                          Richoson,
                          The clutch felt nice and hard so i don't think it will be a problem (might be swapped out already.. but who knows) but 2k that is a lot of dosh is it a prick of a job or is that just parts?

                          Rainman,
                          Cheers for the heads up on the radiator problem, what would i need to do to test if its clogged? take it off and flush it with a hose i assume? I'll grab some of that rustoff gear too and spray the car underbody hard!

                          Thanks for the wealth of info guys

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hi

                            The clutch cost is fitted, and when Toyota replace the timing belt they do put a sticker on the cover, so no sticker either not done, done by a non genuine dealer, or simply just fallen off with dust or engine cleaning, still need to get it checked for peace of mind.

                            See ya on the tracks, Richo.
                            [B]Former [/B]Party Leader, [B]Now[/B] SDO SEQLD GTG 2015 PFA (Pradopoint Fairy Advisor)
                            [B]Bitumen - A Blatant Waste of Taxpayers Money[/B]

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by perthspark View Post
                              Rainman,
                              Cheers for the heads up on the radiator problem, what would i need to do to test if its clogged? take it off and flush it with a hose i assume? I'll grab some of that rustoff gear too and spray the car underbody hard!
                              Take it to a radiator specialist and they will clean the core out properly. Last time I had mine done I used the long life Toyota coolant (good for 5 years?). I think Natrad charged me a couple of hundred (plus cost of coolant), but thats not a lot in the scheme of things.

                              Comment

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