Just bought an ex mining prado

[perthspark Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close perthspark]

Had a mate look at the whole car up on a hoist.. a lot of dirt came out of those chassis rails when he high pressure cleaned it! He checked all the oils, coolant, radiator and the timing belt and their all clean or have been recently changed. So no problems there.

I have, however, had the car a week or so now and theres an issue with it stalling. It will crank and turn over fine.. run for two seconds then stall. It will then really struggle to start, and will keep cranking. i gave it 10 minutes, then started it and it grudgingly sprung to lilfe. I asked a mate about this and he said to prime the fuel filter with the push button until it feels stiff. So the next time it stalled, which did not happen every time, i did this and it worked, engine started no worries. This makes me believe it is a fuel pressure fault, or air in the system. Am taking it back to the dealer to get looked at next week? oh and it runs fine and no loss of power is felt when it is actually up and running... what do you guys think the problem could be?

[timmay5.7 Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close timmay5.7]

Air bubble in the fuel line. Possible leak somewhere.

[perthspark Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close perthspark]

Cheers timmay5.7, I'll have them look at that when i take it in.. hopefully it's just that and not a huge injector issue similar to what half this sites pages are about : should of read about those injector issues before I bought the car lol. ah well its got 150km on the clock and no sign of a rattly diesel yet so should be right i hope!

[brogers Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close brogers]

There is a fuel tank transfer filter that should be changed every 20,000km (if it has duel talks), and also, from memory, at 150,000km a fuel pump that should be changed....maybe this could be the problem causing it to be hard to start? Please let us know how you go.

[Rollover Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Rollover]

If it's fitted with a Toyota bullbar
check the mounts as well for cracks
There was a recall last year I think to have the mounts replaced with heavier duty ones

[perthspark Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close perthspark]

brogers, I've read up about that fuel filter in between tanks and had a look under the car. I can probably get to it and do it myself, just gotta find a good parts dealer.. Same as the main filter in the engine bay. I had a look at the logbook and could not find a pump that needed to be changed though. Do you mean the one inside one of the fuel tanks? Why do they have to put it inside the tank anyway the wankers! makes it that much harder to service.

Rollover, I have heard about this cracked wheel guards issue caused by the bullbars. I do have the factory toyota alloy one, where do I check for cracks? Is it where it bolts on to the chassis?

Thanks for the input fellas

[Rollover Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Rollover]

Perthspark
The main mounts that attach to the front chassis can sometimes crack at the welds.Not the chassis but the bracket itself.
Even if there are no cracks Toyota will still replace them with the bigger mounts which I would advise.
If you call your local Toyota dealer and give them your vin number they will tell you if there is an outstanding recall on that vehicle or the previous owner may have already returned it.
Either way they will be able to tell you and it will be no cost to you to have the stronger mounts fitted by Toyota.

[Hedland Guy Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Hedland Guy]

got one too

Gday Blokes

Firstly please accept my apologies for Hijacking this thread

I also have just purchased an Ex-Corefleet slash Mine-specd 07 GX Prado thats done 144 on the clock
at the time of Purchase
-the timing belt had been done @ 141
-Rear shocks had been replaced

According to Prosser Toyota this vehicle has an oustanding recall notice for the Bullbar mounts that will be rectified in January

My intentions are to give it a full service
-Oil (Z418) & fuel (Z252X) replacement & all Fluids replaced)with the following
-Redline Light heavyweight (Gearbox) & 80W140 (Transfers front & rear)
-HPR diesel for the engine

My questions are
-if the engine oil specifys a 15W40 oil & the HPR is 20W60 will this damage the motor?
-has anybody used Redline oils or any Synthetic oils & is it worth it? ie this vehicle will primarily be a City commuter but will occasionally see the country roads with Towing
-Is there anything i should be looking at or inspect on a regular basis
-Is it worth rewiring my lights so they dont turn only at start up?
-Is a Turbo timer recommended?
-Has anybody installed HID's & do they drain the battery excessively?

once again sorry for hijacking & your input would be appreciated

[Brett1979 Avid PP Poster! Find all posts View Profile Close Brett1979]

G'day, Headland, I'll help you with what I can:

Don't use 20w60 if the specification is 15w40. I wouldn't even use 20w50. Stick to 15w40 or 10w40. Oil's very important and if you start using 20w60 which is a really thick oil it could cause problems down the track, not to mention your engine will have to work harder to pump and sift through it than a thinner oil like 15w40.

Synthetic oil isn't the be all end all in my book. It's expensive and over marketed. I'd just recommend changing your oil on or under the specified intervals.

For your car which has only 144,000km you shouldn't have to inspect or look out for anything on a regular basis unless you suspect a problem exists. It just depends if your car is going to be driven in harsh environments with whether you check certain things or not, which is sounds like it won't be. But if you're going to maintain the car yourself, you'd probably have a routine look under the bonnet every now and again anyway.

Someone else with your model Prado can answer the re-wiring question.

Unless you flog the guts out of your car all the time and have the turbo running pretty red hot I wouldn't bother with a turbo timer. If you live in the top end where it's always hot then it wouldn't hurt that's for sure. But other than that I'd save your money unless you'd really like the idea of having one. A cheaper alternative & recommended thing to do is to just let your turbo diesel idol for a minute or two after pulling up from a drive before you switch it off regardless of how it was driven.

HID's draw low amps. That one of two advantages of them. A) They're ultra bright and will turn night into day; B) They draw a low current. So unless you leave them on for an hour or two while your car is switched off, there's no concern whatsoever.

A lot of people on here prefer you hijack and older thread as opposed to starting a new one because then there's less threads to sought through if you're looking for something particular. You've done the right thing by using this existing thread as it's largely the right category for you.