Buying a 1KZ-TE 120 or 90?

[Exhaustipated Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Exhaustipated]

As per title, if you where on the market and wanted to buy a Prado 1KZ-TE would you prefer a 120 or a 90?
If possible also give me 2 pros and 2 cons for your opinion it would be great.
This is my first post so be kind.
And if this has been discussed before, excuse my limited search skills.
Cheers

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

Totally a personal choice.
If you're into electronic aids, traction control etc you'd want a modern vehicle like the 120 or an optioned up 90.
Mechanically, the 120 is superior as you'd expect from a more modern vehicle.
90 has the dreaded lower ball joint worry bit I imagine a poorly maintained 120 could also drop the suspension on the road.
If you wanted a 120 why not go for a D4D instead of the KZ.
If a 120's D4D is still going strongly, chances are it's been sorted and worth checking the service history.

[abcxyz Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close abcxyz]

I've owned both. A 90 series 1KZ for a couple of years, and now a 120 1KZ (2004) for the better part of 10 years.

Personally I thought I'd never get to like the looks of the 120, but it has definitely grown on me over the period of ownership (but that's an entirely personal preference).

The main difference I can think of is that the 90 has two individual tanks with individual fuel pumps that you need to manually switch (for a total of around 160 litres), where-as the 120 has two tanks but a single pump but you do not need to switch between them manually (for a total of 180 litres). I have not read of any fuel pump issues with a 120 so do not think the single pump is a reason for concern.

If I remember rightly, air intake is on different sides. The 90 series the snorkel was on the passenger side, the 120 its on the drivers side. Does create a slightly bigger blind spot on teh drivers side with the 120, so being in the city I need to keep a closer look out for cyclists at round-abouts.

Service intervals (and presumably costs) are the same.

Given the popularity of the 120 there are a heap of accessories available, especially on the second hand market, for good prices.

Either of these vehicles will be between 12-18 years old, so the most important thing would be service history. If you can find one that is a single / two owner example with a good history, in good condition, and with reasonable kms, I would jump at it. Good ones come up on this site every so often, so keep a look out.

[Levavi Oculus Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Levavi Oculus]

Hey Exhaustipated, there are a number of mechanical differences (as in the things that wear out on each model) however there are other bits worth looking at. I have owned a 2004 120 1KZ TE from new and as I am currently looking for cars for kids have found a few consistent bits to look for.

Pro's
90's are cheap as chips to fix bang ups and hang ups if you have access to a wrecker, as they are increasingly being retired with only small damage (esp the V6's...).
120's I have found to be really easy to work on (I'm 6'2") and genuine Toyota parts are becoming quite cheap.
Both can carry plenty of fuel however 120's are better suited to diverse locations as they cycle the fuel continuously (no sticky tanks in high country winters) thus fresh fuel / additives mixes through...
Both have good exit angles for larger vehicles, for the 120 best with a Toyota factory tow bar (albeit the inserts sometimes rattle).
For 120's, as there are so many globally, the online help community (PradoPoint and others) is exceptionally strong.

Cons
90's often have bits of card stuffed down around the dash to stop squeaks and rattles. The V6's are really, really thirsty when pushed or loaded so stick with your 1KZ TE option.
Aftermarket spares are becoming more rare (New) and at the same time more plentiful (Used).
90's watch for 'caterpillar overhauls' where well meaning sellers get a respray of the peeling and faded paintwork to cover up life on or close to the beach....
120's are known to spontaneously grow fine cracks in their dash boards(as mine did a year or so ago and so grew a dash mat).
120 Sovereign Toyota aluminium bull bar - check the main vehicle mountings were changed in the recall (years ago). Should have a big arsed steel plate 'mushroom' shape attachment to the chassis not a single 'rhs' as these crack off (sometimes in use). Should also have at least 12 mm clearance from the bottom of the headlights to the top of the main Bar section.
Both check for any dodgy fixes and overloaded roof rack (leaks, bends and buckles), although these are generally easy to spot with a good poke around up top and under carpets as the Toyota build finish was excellent. The 1KZ TE engine will often have a small leak (weep) of engine oil coming from the front of the rocker cover.

I would note coming from an old LC's and LR's background (yes it is true) that without the electronic traction control (VX & Grande 120 models) the hill decent speeds can be a little upsetting at first but for ease of driving, comfort for up to eight bodies, great systems and simplicity in service the 120 1KZ TE is hard to go past. For servicing you can pretty much jump in with the engine (when cold) and take any bit off without special tools. An oil change is 5 minutes work adn a drain time of your choice. If you are skinny you won't even need ramps.
In my case I'm only selling my baby because I just don't do the country K's anymore, at 285K the engine runs a treat and she's still physically tight as a drum.

Good luck with whichever you choose.

[Levavi Oculus Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Levavi Oculus]

Oh and check disc rotor thicknesses

[Exhaustipated Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Exhaustipated]

Thanks for the insight of your experience.
Really appreciated.

[carco Advanced Member Find all posts View Profile Close carco]

If you do end up with a 90, replace the front lower ball joints using genuine parts straight away.
Do NOT believe a seller has done the job, just budget some extra $$ so you know it's good.
On FB there's a recent post where non genuine lasted 4000k. One beach drive and the rest highway.
Reputable big name internet parts supplier too, only problem was they weren't Toyota parts.
Do some Google searching so you're acquainted with the potential problem.

[Foxo Junior Member Find all posts View Profile Close Foxo]

I've done 335000ks with my KZ-TE 120 and it still runs sweetly and I swear by the old technology engine and the auto is still going strong. Apart from cam belt changes and a new water pump and brake pads etc., I can recommend the KZ-TE 120.
Foxo

[Exhaustipated Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Exhaustipated]

Thanks guys.
I like the 120 but the dash board cracks put me off all the time. I can't get over it. Did anyone replaced it? If so did it crack again because was made with the same material or the new dash was made with better material?

[Exhaustipated Lurker Find all posts View Profile Close Exhaustipated]

I did ended up to buy this beauty!!!