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  • Helton vehicle shower install

    hi, as discussed in a previous thread, i thought i would throw together this install guide for the 120. Probably similar on 90's and 150's... and most other cars. I installed the unit in parallel to be able to reduce the heat of the HE without reducing the shower flow.

    1. I bought the red unit from helton, double coiled and hot as you please.

    2. there are two bolts in the firewall on the passenger side, the bolts match up with the supplied nulock nuts so that was the spot. I used a little piece of 3mm flat bar to bridge the bolts to offer more support and to space out a little bit as the bolts are a little too long.

    3. fix the unit to the brackets with the red tab at the top



    4. undo the heater hose connection going into the cabin on the firewall (the hose that passes over the top of the motor), attach a small bit of hose and a T piece on the original metal tubing.

    5. attach a bit of hose from the t piece back to the red barb on the HE. This is the coolant inlet.



    6. attach another T piece on the original hose removed from the cabin heater barb in step 4 and attach another length of hose from that T piece to the blue barb on the HE. This will be the return line for the coolant once it has passed through the HE.



    7. both T pieces will have an exposed barb at this point, get another piece of hose to bridge these two barbs and cut it in half. install the reducer (ball valve with 5/8 male tails) into this line. This is the bypass for the HE. opening and closing this tap increases or reduces the heat in the HE.



    8. attach some nitto plugs (one male and one female) to some hose and fix it under the bonnet. attach one to the red and one to the blue 10mm barbs on the HE.

    9. attach the corresponding nitto plug to a length of hose to be the pickup line. I put a bilge pump on the end of this to draw the water.

    10. attach the last nitto plug to another length of hose with a shower rose on the other end.

    11. plug in the bilge pump and crank the motor. Test the water coming out. after a long drive the water will be scalding... use this for washing up water. open the ball valve and less coolant will be going through the HE, use this for showering.

    Tadaaa

    Just need to fashion up some way of holding the shower rose on the aerial... I would be using the shower in a shower tent if I was near people, but where I usually go up the beach I dont mind a bit of open air showering.

    if you use an under bonnet water pump, which i may upgrade to, install it between the hose connection and the blue barb on the HE.

    The fancy hose spring mabobbies were just coiled coat hangers.
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  • #2
    Final installed jobbie

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    • #3
      Top work on the install!
      For a minute there I was reading the install thinking I hope you weren't going to surprise us all with a pic of you using the new mod in all your glory

      I ordered the HE unit last week with the view it is going to take me some time to getting around and installing it. I was originally looking at the Shurflo pumps but AJ120 got me onto the flojet for a little less money ($90 shipped from US) so am waiting on this too.

      I like your idea of the mounting the rose on the bar..

      Have you had much of a chance to test it out?
      [b]Silver 2008 D4D Auto GXL[/b]
      [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6032]My build up[/url]

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      • #4
        Originally posted by no-grey nomad View Post
        Final installed jobbie

        I was wondering why people drove round with these poles on their bull bars, now I know!
        [B][COLOR=blue]Bitumen: A blatant waste of taxpayers money![/COLOR][/B]
        [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=12197&start=0&st=0&sk=t&sd=d"]My rig buildup[/URL] [URL="http://www.pradopoint.com/album.php?albumid=141"]Mundaring Power Lines Jan 01[/URL] [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuQmi3Tgoe0&feature=feedu=d"]You Tube Video Morgan Quarry[/URL]

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        • #5
          Nice job.

          how long do you find it takes to get hot water out of the shower if you are starting with a cold engine. eg first thing in the morning to wash away the effects of a big night around the campfire, or in my case when I have just come out of the water after a long dive...

          Very keen to fit one of these but I have never seen one installed to get a feel for how they work.
          2011 D4D Manual, ARB Winch bar, Uniden radio, 9500lb Winch, Tracklander copy roofrack, 150L/Min Ebay compressor, and a very long shopping list...

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          • #6
            Only really tested it out during install. I found the water was cool until the temp gauge on the dash reaches operating temperature and she's good to go, even have to turn it down a bit. I higher flow rate pump is a good idea as the little bilge pump I have struggles a little. Takes about 2-3 mins to heat up, enough time to strip off and find the soap.

            Yeah I used to think the poles were for venting at truckies, turns out it is actually a shower rose pole. I'll be!
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            • #7
              I have installed the same heat exchanger now, my install is quite different. Have a look here http://www.pradopoint.com/showthread...camper-trailer starting at post #181 for a full write up.

              Cheers Andrew
              [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

              [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

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              • #8
                AJ120, you didn't put in an in-line tap to reduce the heat? I find I need to cut it off a little if I come back from a drive, too hot for showering.
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                • #9
                  Originally posted by no-grey nomad View Post
                  AJ120, you didn't put in an in-line tap to reduce the heat? I find I need to cut it off a little if I come back from a drive, too hot for showering.
                  I intend to heat the water first and then shower, much more control that way.

                  Cheers Andrew
                  [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

                  [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

                  [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


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                  • #10
                    Hi Andrew, install looks good and as you say recycling the water to temperature sounds the best way to get the system working without the sudden hot/cold bursts you may get otherwise, and is how I plan to use it. Actually Helton advises this although its not on their instruction sheet.

                    I recommend something like this you can throw in the bucket that has a thermometer on it and gives range up to 50 degrees. Once at the right temp, turn the car off and leave the pump running and presto shower away.
                    Click image for larger version

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                    [b]Silver 2008 D4D Auto GXL[/b]
                    [url=http://www.pradopoint.com/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=6032]My build up[/url]

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by switched View Post
                      I recommend something like this you can throw in the bucket that has a thermometer on it and gives range up to 50 degrees. Once at the right temp, turn the car off and leave the pump running and presto shower away.
                      [ATTACH=CONFIG]2905[/ATTACH]
                      Or i could just stick my hand in and feel! thats how I set the temp every time I have a normal shower

                      Cheers Andrew
                      [COLOR="#FF0000"]So Long and Thanks for all the Fish![/COLOR]

                      [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3840-AJ-s-120-Prado]MY PRADO AND DIY CAMPER TRAILER[/url]

                      [url=http://www.4wdadventurers.com/showthread.php?3975-AJ-s-79-series-Cruiser-Ute]MY HZJ79 Landcrusier[/url]


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